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Old 02-11-2013, 05:42 AM   #1
Will Holland
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Default E5 Review

Special thanks to Will James for the opportunity and means to do this build, it was fun and fast!
This machine is on loan to me for the review, I'll offer support until it gets shipped back. Enjoy and feel free to post comments/ questions.

Equipment used:
Radio Airtronics SD-10G
Savox SC-1257-TG servo's on cyclic
Futaba BLS 251 on tail
Beast X Flybarless unit
Castle ICE 120 and Scorpion 4025 100kv motor (recommended)
Castle Pro BEC
Pulse 6s 5000mAh Flight pack
Chrome 2s 3600mAh Receiver pack
Rail 556 Main blades
KBDD tail blades

The E5 is a full kit but super fast build that should take the average builder about 3 hours to complete!
http://synergyrchelicopters.com/E5_Manual_v2.0.pdf and get ready!
READ THE MANUAL before getting started, the head and tail are pre-assembled but you need to break these down, clean and re-assemble with thread lock!


The first thing you'll notice is all of the screws are in their prospective holes on all of your parts. This ensures you have all of your screws and as a bonus, you know what screws go where without any guess work, remove and clean them with Denatured Alcohol to remove any leftover manufacturing oils.





The E5 build begins with building sub assemblies that will later make up the E5's framework.
These assemblies simply consist of screwing frame spacers to your Gyro Tray, Battery Tray, ESC Mount Plate, Lower Frame Brace, Boom Clamp, and your Sub-Assemblies are done.





Moving along, the next step is the Front Tail Transmission Assembly that comes loosely pre-assembled and again will need to be taken apart, cleaned and thread lock applied.


Assemble all of your Sub-Assemblies to the left side frame leaving your screws loose for frame alignment. The two frame halves are the same so other then Main Shaft Bearing Block orientation, everything goes together effortlessly. One area to note while assembling the frame half is the Front Tail Transmission. The frames are slotted to adjust the gear mesh between the Tail Drive Gear and the Transmission as there are two gear ratios available, 4.0:1 and 4.5:1 for a faster tail. I will be sticking to the stock 4.0:1 ratio as I fly mainly Sport / Light 3D and this ratio will be adequate for anything I throw at the E5.





Before bolting the Right Frame Half to the assembly, install the Tail Servo and Elevator Servo. The E5 includes aluminum servo mounts that are bolted to the servo with an included aluminum Servo Hold Down plate, then bolted to the frame half. Next step is to bolt the Right Side Frame Half to your assembly, place the loosely assembled airframe on a flat surface to ensure proper frame alignment and tighten it all up. Just out of Old School habit, I like to drop the main shaft and Main Gear in when I do this although with the E5 it is not necessary, the E5's third Bearing Block is designed to slide fore and aft for proper Main Shaft alignment.





Landing Skids are the next step and worthy of a special note. Matt employed an innovative solution to secure the Skid Tubes that will end the bottom of your skids breaking off during a less than perfect landing. Matt implemented a Skid Tube Lock. This sleeve is inserted into the Skid Tube with its threaded hole aligning with the hole in the Skid Tube. Although tricky to hold in place during installation (The Manual includes an alternative method should the task be too difficult) check the video below for a fast easy solution for installation compliments of Bad Frog.


[video coming soon!]


Motor Selection.
The E5 will accept a wide variety of motors available on the market as well as accept batteries for either a 6s setup or 12s setup!
For the motor I chose the recommended Scorpion HKIII 4025 100KV motor with the included 14 tooth pinion and Castle ICE HV 120 for ESC. After flying with this configuration I recommend sticking with this for best performance.


Assembling the carbon boom supports is a breeze although I do it a little different than the manual suggest and guarantees perfect alignment. Assemble your torque tube and boom, install them now. I prefer 5 minute epoxy over JB Weld for securing my Boom Support ends, no advantage from one to the other accept I always have epoxy around. Using some 3-400 grit sand paper, rough up the ends of the carbon rods and mix up your favorite epoxy enough for both rods. Dip the ends of your boom support into the epoxy, slide the rod ends on and wipe off the excess epoxy. Install your boom support to the airframe and continue quickly to the the other boom support. Set the machine aside for your epoxy to set and you will now have perfect alignment of your boom supports and ends.








The tail assembly comes loosely assembled and needs to be completely dissembled, cleaned, and reassembled using thread lock. Although optional, the tail box comes drilled and tapped for pinning your tail box to the boom for added security against the tail box slipping. This simple process consist of assembling your tail box on to the boom, insert a 3mm screw tightening only enough to mark its spot on the boom, remove the tail box and drill a 3mm hole.






Assemble the tail control rod using the same method as the boom supports, sand the carbon rod and epoxy the aluminum ends on. Definitely avoid using CA to secure the tail control rod ends, it might work today but won't last long.





Head Assembly.
The head comes loosely assembled and needs to be completely disassembled, cleaned, oil/grease the bearings, thread lock and reassembled. One special feature found on the E5 Main Blade Grips is Thrust Bearing Lubrication Hole! I had to play with this feature with my Boto-Lube applicator and both proved to be a perfect fit.





During assembly of the head, loosely fit the washout arms as they also double as the head clamp. At this time I noticed the ball links were not going to snap on until sized. Using the Boto-Sizer (Optional, part number 700-100) the ball links snapped on and were a perfect fit, also take this time to size the rest of the ball links. Ball links are not the normal 4.5mm but a larger 5.5mm so I recommend purchasing the Boto-Sizer when you purchase your kit, it comes with 3 attachments that will cover everything on the market today.




Assembly is completed by installing the remaining electronics and servo's. Matt has employed a fool proof method of getting the correct servo horn ball link location, with included carbon fiber servo horns that bolt to existing plastic horns. The E5 has Servo Alignment Holes drilled into the frame halves for fast servo horn alignment, point the horn at the holes and your servo's are set at a perfect 90 degrees to your links.





Install your favorite blades, mount your canopy and this build is complete.


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Last edited by Will Holland; 02-12-2013 at 04:36 PM..
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:02 AM   #2
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Sweet Will!!!!!!!
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:11 AM   #3
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Thanks Mr James
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:02 AM   #4
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Nicely done, Will!!!

I used JB-Weld for my tail rod ends, definitely want something better than CA for sure!

This was one of, if not the easiest builds that I have ever done. I can't say enough good things about the quality of this model and how well it all goes together. Matt Botos and the manufacturing facilities he's using have really done quite an excellent job with this model.

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Old 02-11-2013, 09:19 AM   #5
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Nice write up Will!
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:07 PM   #6
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Great write up. Unless you're awesome dont expect to have it built in 3 hours unless you've built many I these.
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Old 02-11-2013, 06:41 PM   #7
Will Holland
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Thanks guys, more to come soon
The E5 really does build that fast, I spent more time taking pics than anything. The most time consuming part of the build is actually just the wiring as with all builds. Everyone does their wiring different from manufacturer to end user and this is where most time is spent. I myself build around crashing/ failures so no my wiring isnít the most beautiful but it enables me to quickly replace a component in the event of a failure. My wiring is hard and fast as below, others get fancy with wire loom and creative ways to hide wiring. I appreciate all efforts in wiring especially the guys who hide their wiring, just my personal taste to do it hard and fast for easy component replacement. In the pic below, the wiring goes to the receiver under the tail boom. Yes, the carbon has been sanded where any wire crosses to avoid any cutting or chafing

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Old 02-11-2013, 08:55 PM   #8
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I do the same thing with wiring. I did have everything hidden but had a buddy look at it and he found spots where wires could have been damaged so I cal hanged everything to make it more easy access. The build was not super hard, only had a couple of small issues. But I took my time with it to make sure everything was proper because it is my first big Heli and I didn't want something blowing up in air.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:57 AM   #9
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Awesome writeup. Make me want to build another as a true 550. I must be super slow, it took me about 12 hours to build mine the first time.
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Old 05-04-2013, 01:29 PM   #10
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Default And the moment we've all been waiting for!

Normally to me it's no big deal, just another part of the hobby but I keep hearing the phrase "It's a nice machine but how does it fare in a crash", quite well actually...

After some brutal beating (Oh yeah, the E5 will handle just about anything you want to throw at it and does so with power to spare) and a battery charge, I continued to smack the E5 around and suddenly....Boom! My flight pack going about 40 feet one way, my receiver pack 40 the other and it fell from about 60 feet with a solid thud. Upon inspecting the wreckage it was quickly apparent that i failed to strap my battery down tight enough. Now I've got this set up a little different than the manual recommends as far as the battery goes. My battery is actually velcro'd to a piece of carbon with a locating pin in the front and then strapped down. I'll get a pic of the battery tray mod as soon as I get another made, it makes battery changed simple however..... it could not be located after the crash.

The good stuff.
Upon inspecting the crash damage to make a list of parts to order, to my surprise it only needs swash follower arms, blade grip arms, links, spindle, main shaft and a main gear! The rest of the machine is unscathed accept the tail fin that broke in the fall.
To some this might seem like a lot of parts. When you take into account the violent forces a machine goes through when a battery is ejected into the main blades stopping the head instantly, I expected broken frames, twisted bearing blocks, and a much longer list, this damage is nothign more than the average tip over.

I tip my hat to the E5 as it is proving to be quite a tough machine



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Old 05-04-2013, 02:41 PM   #11
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Wow I knew the e5 was tough but that's a hell of a thing. Battery through blades at speed normally would be catastrophic!

Glad to hear the E5 is living up to the hype for you Will!


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Old 05-04-2013, 05:11 PM   #12
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And thats with the 14 tooth pinion on 100% flat line throttle curve, this thing is a beast, I'm really impressed with the lack of damage caused, I too shop by how well a Heli crashes lol
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:29 PM   #13
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I have thoroughly tested the crash worthiness of the E5... a few times. It really is a tough machine.
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Old 05-05-2013, 06:05 AM   #14
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It's definitely proving itself. Took me a little head banging to get it dialed in but once I figured this new radio out the E5 came to life and actually passed up my 6HV on my favorites list (I thought was not possible lol). With this incident however, I would highly recommend the E5 for new pilots with the help of an experienced pilot to tone it down a bit. The E5 is definitely more durable than some other popular 550's
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Old 05-08-2013, 11:05 PM   #15
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I'd look into Ralph's battery trays if you wanted something a little stronger for quick pack changes.

Picked one up for running 12s, as two packs on the E5 is a rather big pain.

As for durability, I've seen one go in at a fun fly pretty hard with only a few busted parts.

Were you under power when the main gear busted? I know it's machined, but I catch hell for the 40$ main gear lol.

(Now those boom prices....hmmm....not so sure about that).
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:10 AM   #16
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my battery tray is good, me not strapping it down adequately was the issue lol.
I was at full power when it happened otherwise probably wouldn't have lost the main gear.
Cost wise, yes the main gear is pricey but the parts quality makes up for it
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