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600 Class Nitro Helicopters 600 Class Nitro Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 01-10-2008, 02:45 PM   #1
CAMOMAN
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Default Belt vs. Torque Tube

If I were to get the belt drive 600N to learn to fly and then want to go to the torque tube.....would I just be able to buy the parts and swap them out in the belt drive chasis.......
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Old 01-10-2008, 02:51 PM   #2
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Yep, for the extra though you might aswel go Pro. I think the conversion would cost more than the extra for the Pro and your also getting the carbon frames.


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Old 01-10-2008, 02:57 PM   #3
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I had just read somewhere that the torque tube blows real easy if it were to have a minor tail srike and the belt seems to hold up more.......I was just curious how serious minor tail strikes might be with the tube......
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Old 01-10-2008, 03:05 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by CAMOMAN View Post
I had just read somewhere that the torque tube blows real easy if it were to have a minor tail srike and the belt seems to hold up more.......I was just curious how serious minor tail strikes might be with the tube......

Yeah you do have to be careful with the tail. I have heard a lot of people talk about small contact with the ground and the tail rotor that has stripped teeth off the fromt gears. However I am realitively "noob" and I have yet to strip any teeth. And yes I have contacted the ground, must of just got lucky

One other issue with the tube is reports of the tail case flying off or even the boom from the boom case during high revo piro's. However there is a mod you can do to prevent this. I will post a link to a thread I have just startyed on this.

The major advantage I see with the tube is the ease of installation, its really easy and relatively maintenance free ie no lubing or checking tension.

Thanks

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Old 01-10-2008, 03:06 PM   #5
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Link to the tail mod thread,

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=56394

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Old 01-10-2008, 03:17 PM   #6
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I'd stick with the belt drive, it's much more forgiving of ground contact and the difference in performance is minimal plus the fibreglass frames of the sport version are also cheaper to replace.

I fitted the torque tube to my 600E and was disappointed that the difference was un-noticable. the 600E is mothballed at the moment and I'm not swapping it across to my 600N, I'm more than happy with the belt.
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Old 01-10-2008, 06:50 PM   #7
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Is there a difference in the frames from the CF to the Fiberglass in the sport..or are they interchangeable.....
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Old 01-11-2008, 05:45 AM   #8
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The frames will swap out with no modification. as for what to get, pro vs non pro, If your a 100% newbe
and on a tight budget get the non , its parts are cheaper
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Old 01-11-2008, 09:18 AM   #9
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The frames will swap out with no modification. as for what to get, pro vs non pro, If your a 100% newbe
and on a tight budget get the non , its parts are cheaper
I talked to an 8-year veteran of RC helis shortly before New Year's who has flown both types of 600Ns and I asked him whether he thought the torque tube was better than the belt. He's not a stick-banger, opting instead for more fluid 3D, and he said that he couldn't really tell the difference in handling between the belt- and tube-driven tails. His 600N has the belt. I would guess that the torque tube would really only show its advantages when doing hard 3D.
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Old 01-11-2008, 09:24 AM   #10
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I just converted my 600NPro to a belt drive. This was after one minor tail strike and one major crash. The
problem was not with the torgue tube but with the tranmission box gears. The slightest bump and you will be
stripping the tube out of the chassis and replacing the gears. Since I am still learning (just starting to transition
to FF) I can not tell the difference. Cost wise I think I will be much better off in the long run... although if Wayne
gets his Knight 3D's I may be looking at how they have their belt drive set up. Just seems like a
better system.

Any ways that is my $0.02 worth.
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Old 01-11-2008, 10:01 AM   #11
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I have stripped the gears once, but it has sure made me more aware of my tail and a better pilot for it. I'm sticking with the torque tube. There's no mucking about with the belt and changing the gears on the torque tube is only a 10 minute job.

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Old 01-11-2008, 11:52 AM   #12
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I'd stick with the belt drive, it's much more forgiving of ground contact and the difference in performance is minimal plus the fibreglass frames of the sport version are also cheaper to replace.

I fitted the torque tube to my 600E and was disappointed that the difference was un-noticable. the 600E is mothballed at the moment and I'm not swapping it across to my 600N, I'm more than happy with the belt.
Hi steve where do you fly? as i also live in Halesowen and have a 600sport and pro, brought them from Stuarts Models in Cradley Heath.Only started flying around April last year, we fly down at Cutnall Green (Stone Manor area).
Have been told that they fly heli's up at the Rugby club but never seen anyone.
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Old 01-11-2008, 12:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frogbmth View Post
I have stripped the gears once, but it has sure made me more aware of my tail and a better pilot for it. I'm sticking with the torque tube. There's no mucking about with the belt and changing the gears on the torque tube is only a 10 minute job.

Andy
and that is why i like my TT's... no belt tensions to have to worry about.
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Old 01-12-2008, 05:29 AM   #14
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Hi steve where do you fly? as i also live in Halesowen and have a 600sport and pro, brought them from Stuarts Models in Cradley Heath.Only started flying around April last year, we fly down at Cutnall Green (Stone Manor area).
Have been told that they fly heli's up at the Rugby club but never seen anyone.
I fly on Saturdays at Sutton Park and on Sundays at Himbleton Heli Club which is about a couple of miles outside Droitwich. New members are always welcome at Himbleton so if you're interested PM me.

I thought I'd heard of all the local model shops but I've not heard of Stuarts Models before - where about are they in Cradley?
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Old 01-12-2008, 09:53 AM   #15
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I fly on Saturdays at Sutton Park and on Sundays at Himbleton Heli Club which is about a couple of miles outside Droitwich. New members are always welcome at Himbleton so if you're interested PM me.

I thought I'd heard of all the local model shops but I've not heard of Stuarts Models before - where about are they in Cradley?
Stuarts models is on Corngreaves Road (B64 7DA), opposite the city industrial estate, he also makes sheds there.

http://www.stuartsmodels.co.uk/index.html

Tel: 01384 567577

He stocks some heli-parts (Trex, Raptor and Synergy), and he will always do you a deal on new kits.
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Old 05-05-2008, 02:27 PM   #16
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I'm laughing, and not laughing at the same time... I grew up flying and fixing real life helicopters.. And as all my friends that have flown and wrenched them will tell you, direct mechanical drive is unforgiving. In the RC world you buy some parts and keep flying, but in the real helicopter world, you die or get hurt.

The RC helicopter designs are getting better and better at replicating the real helicopter experience (hence the torque tube tail). But, that real-life mechanical duplication, to date anyway, does not include survivable tail-to-ground strikes... When you stop a moving object, its energy must go somewhere (i.e., back into the drive train). In the event of a drive train sudden stoppage, all energy will find the weakest point... gears, etc.

Quit criticizing the torque tube design and learn to fly better.

Enjoy your RC the way that I do... (we are all crack addicts) but don't expect it to survive the crash...
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Old 05-05-2008, 06:07 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by kmac32 View Post
I'm laughing, and not laughing at the same time... I grew up flying and fixing real life helicopters.. And as all my friends that have flown and wrenched them will tell you, direct mechanical drive is unforgiving. In the RC world you buy some parts and keep flying, but in the real helicopter world, you die or get hurt.

The RC helicopter designs are getting better and better at replicating the real helicopter experience (hence the torque tube tail). But, that real-life mechanical duplication, to date anyway, does not include survivable tail-to-ground strikes... When you stop a moving object, its energy must go somewhere (i.e., back into the drive train). In the event of a drive train sudden stoppage, all energy will find the weakest point... gears, etc.

Quit criticizing the torque tube design and learn to fly better.

Enjoy your RC the way that I do... (we are all crack addicts) but don't expect it to survive the crash...

Couldn't of been said better.. Like has been said in the past. If your learning and dont want to spend the $$$ on TT gears.. get the sport version w/ a belt. if your a little more advanced and dont stick the tail in the ground and want a simpler maintenance setup (IMO). get the TT.
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Old 05-05-2008, 09:12 PM   #18
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Well I am three gallons thru the 600 and yet to have a problem with the tail drive...so far just a broken landing gear..........nothing major....so I agree.......just don't hit the ground.......and things will be good.....I am not that good yet but I can fly.......and I haven't had a tail problem yet....but tomorrow is a new story...lol..........I had heard all the hype about the the gears but KNOCK ON WOOD...so far so good.......lol

Last edited by CAMOMAN; 05-05-2008 at 09:14 PM.. Reason: spelling....or typo..lol
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Old 05-05-2008, 09:14 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Well I am three gallons thru the 600 and yet to have a problem with the tail drive...so far just a broken landing gear..........nothing major....so I agree.......just don't hit the ground.......and things will be good.....I am not that good yet but I can fly.......and I havent' had a tail problem yet....but tomorrow is a new story...lol..........I had heard all the hype about the the gears but KNOCK ON WOOD...so far so good.......lol
you'll go thru them eventually, but i have never gone thru a set just from doing piro's yet.
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Old 05-05-2008, 10:16 PM   #20
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There's one vendor that makes an aftermarket vertical stabilizer that's longer than the stock one, so it will protect your tail blades and, therefore, your TT better. I just can't remember who it is at the moment.

On the other hand, I'm flying the K&B 30/50 size tail blades, which are 10mm shorter than stock, so my TT problems have pretty much vanished.
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