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Old 05-23-2015, 09:09 AM   #9721
Tomstoy2
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Something to test you curiosity.



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Old 05-23-2015, 03:45 PM   #9722
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Damn good effort Tom. Hope you do make it in time for the meet, and before the surgery!

Don't know how long it will be before I do fly it Sutty. I'm still tempted to find the fault, so I can sell off the old parts as working, or keep them as spare. But the main reason is, I still don't know 100% if the problem was mechanical or electrical. Which if it is electrical, then installing a new head and FBL unit still won't fix it!! So I could do with ruling out it being an overload/blackout problem first.

Was hoping I'd get a day at the club weekend before last, but got sanctioned on using the car, as it just went through the MOT the week before and cost 400 So maybe, I could install some kind of volt/amp reader to the servo's, ream the balls properly/again, hopefully get tony at the club to check it and it could be problem solved. Ready to tune the engine. But even if I do do that, I will still buy the head and FBL unit in a few weeks probably get a ball reamer and volt reader at same time!

But now I just thought, maybe it would be better if I just ditched that idea and bought a cheap car? then at least I can get out to fly!!
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Old 05-23-2015, 04:11 PM   #9723
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Don't buy an FBL head, just convert the original head that you had. The more simple one, it will be more than good enough. Just review my thread if you don't recall the details. I'm on that original converted head for the 600, and it had near perfect geometry for the Vortex. I'll give you a MicroBeast, I have two of them sitting here doing nothing, and that way it will have cost you nothing, and you can still get the car to go flying as well.

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Old Yesterday, 04:50 AM   #9724
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I gotta admit, now I had this idea about getting transport, it makes more sense when it comes to finding a new job, which should also be around the same time. But there were other things I wanted, like a holiday with Jack and decorate his room. But if I get a car, even the cheapest, it will probably mean I'll have to put the other things on hold. So I'm gonna have to say the jury's still out on that.

I do still have my original align head, but it'll need restoring with new bearings and links. I've even considered if it's possible to convert the kasama head, to the cyber head but them parts ain't cheap!! Which thread was it in Sutty? Can you send me a link please. Might as well read up in the meantime. Cheers
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Old Yesterday, 09:43 AM   #9725
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Actually took the 600 off the shelf this morning and the flybar does not move freely. Seems the small links are very stiff, and when I pop them off, the flybar will move freely. Remember being here before, I'm sure I sized them already with a scored ball as tom suggested, but they're obviously gonna need to have a bit more taken off. Think I'll buy myself the proper tool this time, make sure they move free and I'm sure it will stop the head locking up under load (at least that what it seems to be!)
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Old Yesterday, 12:00 PM   #9726
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Lookin good Tom!
I got the Reaktor all built and custom painted. I finished setting up the MX2 also!

The weird thing is on the bench when I switch to 3D+HH, both ailerons drop a few degrees(like flaps). Is that normal? Should I fly like that?
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Old Yesterday, 05:05 PM   #9727
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Well the flap problem was the flap trim wasnt centered. My bad, but now I think the guardian is shot. On the bench the rudder drifts slowly left in 3dHH mode but if you move ELE or AIL the rudder snaps back to center??? I swapped RXs same shit... So I conclude the Guardian is unflyable. Any ideas Tom?
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Old Yesterday, 06:11 PM   #9728
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What does adjusting the pot do.

If nothing, then I suspect a gryo or some such. You can try going online and reloading firmware. Might unlock it.

Not familiar with 3dhh, though.

Thought you were going to use the Atom?
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Old Yesterday, 09:59 PM   #9729
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The guardian is in the new MX2 kit. The Atom is going in the new Reaktor. I figured it out anyhow. Problem was I have D/R on a 3 way switch and was in low rates. The guardian must have 100% D/R and ATV's no more or less or it gets confused. After changing D/R back to 100 the drift vanished. The snap back rudder with ELE/AIL is normal...TCB
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Old Yesterday, 10:13 PM   #9730
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...The rudder snaps back with AIL/ELE cause in 3D+HH AIL/ELE stick unlocks the hold on all 3 axis and is ready to lock the next attitude when AIL/ELE are centered. Rudder stick only will move the tail's locking position and not affect AIL/ELE's locked position in flight. So the MX2 is ready to maiden!
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Old Yesterday, 11:14 PM   #9731
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Now if you can get a spot of dry weather!!


Fingers crossed.
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