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450 Class Electric Helicopters 450 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 05-21-2008, 01:09 AM   #1
xSmokechecKx
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Small issue causing me to . I had a spinning problem on my TRex 450 after i put it all together, and ended up adjusting pitch of tail blades after i spent hours thinking it was the gyro. (HG-5000 Hitec). I finally got it off of the ground, and it hovers okay but i have to constantly give it a little left rudder now when in heading lock mode.... as now it spins to the right a lil (Not a reversing/direction issue). I have no trim set in my radio for rudder, and my Gain is at 65%..... EPA at 100. If that wasn't enough... i switch it to Rate mode on my Optic 6 Hitec, and it does the opposite. Spins to the left...... bad. Gain at 35% EPA 100, with no rudder trim. I am almost there with the exception of this. Really getting on my nerves and bumming me out. Can someone please help?

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Old 05-21-2008, 01:25 AM   #2
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Step by step how to could have been had a the press of the search button....

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread....logitech+2100t
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Have a gyro/tail/wag problem? Check here
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Old 05-21-2008, 01:34 AM   #3
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Thank you a ton, but i have downloaded and watched all of these awesome vids. I cant seem to find the remedy however.
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Old 05-21-2008, 02:36 PM   #4
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Still nothing. Can someone help me pretty please with cherries and whipped cream? I really wanna fly this great kit.

Very respectfully,
Smoke
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Old 05-21-2008, 04:08 PM   #5
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So i took another look at everything to see if any little thing was off. I checked the main blades and flybar paddles...... and still cant find what could be making it go Right while in HH mode, and Left while in rate mode. So strange.
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Old 05-21-2008, 04:16 PM   #6
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if im not mistaken isnt that the same as a 2100t.

first turn up gain in rate mode and trim it with no subtrims or trim on the tx, then slide the servo to trim it out so it hovers with no drift in rate mode.

then unplug lipo switch to HH and it should be fine
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Old 05-21-2008, 09:57 PM   #7
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outhouse,

sliding the servo works but can't we achieve the same result by using sub-trim? My understanding is that sub-trim changes the center point on a servo, but I could be wrong.

I use about 2 clicks of sub-trim (not to be confused with trim) in my DX7 to get the tail pitch slider in the correct position allowing the proper pitch to prevent the drift.
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:22 PM   #8
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the gyro sees the sub trim as a input comand set the gyro as discribed and it flys great.
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:28 PM   #9
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try doubling up on your double sided tape that your gyro sits on.
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
the gyro sees the sub trim as a input comand set the gyro as discribed and it flys great.
I don't think that's true with the 401.
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Old 05-22-2008, 01:40 AM   #11
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you can use subtrim for a 401 but many dont and tune it this way. the 2100t has to be set mechanicaly [with no subtrim]

also smoke make sure you have no cyclic servo wires bundled with your gyro wires this can also cause drift with any gyro
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Old 05-22-2008, 09:07 AM   #12
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Subtrim is fine but should only be used to get the servo arm at 90.

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Old 05-22-2008, 09:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wannaflyguy View Post
I don't think that's true with the 401.
it isnt true with the logictech or hitec either, just as any gyro ive used they need to be re-initialized after changing subtrim and they are fine -you can move the subtrim, move the servo, or change the linkage rod length (which is rarely ever mentioned for some reason) and they all accomplish the same thing (with exception of the angle of the servo horn at rest)


however, again with the spektrum tail drift....

the spektrum receiver starts in failsafe, and then changes to the Tx input once it initializes

the gyro is in a race to see which one initializes first

if the gyro initializes before the receiver, the gyro is getting the rudder trim and subtrim settings from the failsafe and not the Tx, if the Tx doesnt match the failsafe, the gyro thinks you are giving input when you are not

the solution is the rebind after setting the gyro in rate mode - because the failsafe is set at the same time, then the failsafe and Tx match anyway, so if the gyro wins the race it doesnt matter, because your failsafe now matches the Tx

wrt the logictech/hitec gyro specifically - 2 main setup things to get right

1. when setting up the left and right throws if you need to crank up your atv to get the slider to go all the way to both sides dont get lazy make sure you do it (even if you are only a mm short), if the gyro doesnt know the full extent of your travel to each side it will overshoot or bounce after piros - these gyros use reversing pitch at the end of piros to stop them on a dime and this step is critical to that end

2. somewhat less critical to piro stop performance is the correct rate mode adjustment, ive found that a rate hover at 1 foot in rotorwash is less effective than if you set the rate mode so it holds at a hover in clear air (5 feet or more, 0 wind)

with the gyro set up well itll make your heli pop and stop like theres a brick wall in midair - so anything short of that and you can improve it (expect similar results with stock, CF and K&BDD blades, stock a tad softer but still slammin)
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Old 05-23-2008, 03:41 AM   #14
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alrighty!! I rechecked everything and adjusted everything to the t. I got it off of the ground and it HOVERED!!!! Still needs a lil tweaking. HH is at 65% and it is wagging a lil. Any ideas? Everything is smooth and clean.... velcro'd and zip tied. I want to shorten the servo leads..... how hard is that, and what tools would i need? That would make it way cleaner. Then i just have to get some nice wire sleeve for them.. (which radio shack did not have ) and it will look the part.

Very respectfully,
Smoke
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Old 05-23-2008, 04:03 AM   #15
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Smoke, glad you got your tail figured out. Tweak the gain a little (downward) and you'll probably get rid of that tail wag. Anyway, shortening wires is a cinch. Go to cheapyharnesses.com and you'll find the plugs/ends that you need as well as the crimpers. Ebay is probably your best bet for sleeving. I've gotten 50' for the same price as 6' at other places. Variety of colors too!
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Old 05-23-2008, 04:08 AM   #16
xSmokechecKx
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If i adjust the gain down, as soon as it gets to 50% it goes into rate mode and goes all over the place. Is there something else i should do?

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Smoke
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Old 05-23-2008, 04:13 AM   #17
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I have wag at 65% and it goes away around 63-64%....just adjust it 1% at a time and you'll be fine. I forgot to add earlier, most of the guys selling wire sleeving on ebay are also selling heat shrink, pick up some of that too.
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Old 05-23-2008, 04:26 AM   #18
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Thanks Wildcat, i am going to check it out right now. You rock.

Smoke
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Old 05-23-2008, 01:30 PM   #19
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Still wags a lil.... but not bad. I will keep checking.

Smoke
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Old 05-30-2008, 12:01 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mensaboy View Post
it isnt true with the logictech or hitec either, just as any gyro ive used they need to be re-initialized after changing subtrim and they are fine -you can move the subtrim, move the servo, or change the linkage rod length (which is rarely ever mentioned for some reason) and they all accomplish the same thing (with exception of the angle of the servo horn at rest)
HG-5000/HSG-5083MG Gyro Combo Quick Start up Guide.

By Brian Tucker
Thank you for choosing the Hitec HG-5000 high performance micro gyro. Following this guide will help
you fully understand all the features of this gyro and allow you to achieve a rock solid tail just like the
pros.
1. Connecting the gyro to the servo & receiver
A. Plug the tail rotor servo into the female connector coming from the gyro (Make sure to connect it in
the proper orientation with the black wire matching on both sides).
B. Plug the connector coming out of the gyro that has 3 wires into the receiver rudder channel slot
(Normally Ch 4).
C. Plug the connector coming out of the gyro that has 1 wire into the receiver gyro gain slot
(Normally Ch 5).
2. Calibrating the gyro to your transmitter
When using the HG-5000 for the first time, you’ll need to do this simple procedure to calibrate the gyro
to your particular transmitter type. Start with the receiver turned off. Turn your transmitter on. Hold the
rudder stick all the way to one side in either direction while turning the receiver power on. You will
see the first 3 LED’s light up in succession. Hold it there for 10 seconds. Return the rudder stick to its
neutral position (No lights are lit in this phase) and leave it there for 5 seconds, then turn the power to
your receiver off then back on again. Calibration is done!
3. Set your Transmitter rudder data as follows. Make sure to set the EPA values the same for both
directions.
A. D/R set to 100%
B. EPA set to the highest setting. 125% to 150% depending on radio used.
C. Sub Trim and Trim set to 0% (Always leave these set to 0%)
4. The gyro gain setting is done in the transmitter, normally on channel 5. Consult your transmitter’s
manual for the channel used on your radio type. The light at the top left hand corner of the gyro marked
TL (Tail Lock) will light when in heading hold mode. This occurs with 50% to 100% gain set in the
transmitter with the higher percentage being the higher gain. Normal Gyro Rate mode (TL light off) will
occur from 50% to 0% with the lower percentage being a higher gain. While the gyro is in normal
operation the LED that is lit indicates the approximate value of gyro gain the transmitter is currently set
too. First LED is 0 ~ 30%, Second LED is 31 ~ 50%, Third through Eighth LED’s are ~ 51 - 100%. The
scale is not linear.
5. Basic Menu Structure
A. Push and hold the menu button down for more then 3 seconds to get into menu mode.
B. Each time you push the menu button it will go to the next menu function.
C. If nothing is touched for 5 seconds it will reset with the light off. Simply push the menu button again
to get to the function you want to set.
D. Pressing the menu button after moving and holding the rudder stick will increase/decrease data values.
E. Left will decrease and right will increase values unless the rudder channel in the transmitter has been
reversed.
2
6. Servo Type Selection (Servo Speed)
Push the menu button to select the “Servo Speed” LED. Hold the rudder stick over and push the menu
button to select the servo type you’re using.
First LED: Hitec’s Gyro Servo Only (HSG-5083MG)
Second LED: General Fast Digital Servos
Third LED: Analog Mini Servos
*Caution: Never use the Hitec Gyro servo mode (First LED) with any servo other than Hitec’s optimized
HSG-5083MG. This mode of the HG-5000 gyro uses a different signal pulse width incompatible with
any other servo product.
7. Gyro compensation direction (Direction)
First, make sure the rudder servo moves the correct direction to the stick input. When you move the
rudder stick to the right, the rudder servo moves in the direction that would increase the tail rotor pitch to
make the nose of the helicopter turn to the right. If it is not correct then reverse the servo direction in the
transmitter. Now, pick up the helicopter and rotate the nose to the left and see which way the servo
moves. The servo should move in the direction that would increase tail rotor pitch to make the helicopter
turn to the right (compensate for the helicopter turning left). If the servo moves the wrong direction then
go to the “Direction” function on the gyro with the menu button and change the LED for the correct
compensation direction.
* To gain optimum performance from the HG-5000 Gyro perform step 8 thoroughly!
8. Servo linkage set up
A. Activate the standard rate mode (25% gain in the TX recommended).
B. With the rudder stick at neutral connect the linkage so that the servo horn and control rod are
perpendicular (90 Degrees to each other).
C. Prepare the helicopter for flight and hover it to check if it rotates with the rudder stick in the neutral
position. Adjust the linkage of the control rod until the helicopter does not rotate at all.


((((((((This mechanical linkage set up is important for proper operation. Do not skip!)
*Caution: Do not adjust the servo horn using Sub-Trim or Transmitter trim. Always adjust the
mechanical linkage, the control rod or servo horn. If you adjust the sub-trim the gyro will recognize the
trim change as a signal input. Then the helicopter will rotate even if the rudder stick is at the neutral
position.))))))))


9. Tail Rotor Limit Setting (Servo Limit)
A. Turn on the “Servo Limit” function using the menu button.
B. Move the rudder stick until the tail rotor locates at the end of its travel without binding and press the
menu button to lock it in. Do this with both left and right end points.
3
10. Pirouette Rate (Rotate Rate)
A. Activate the “Rotate Rate” using the menu button.
B. Select TL mode with the transmitter gain around 70% to 80%.
C. Lift off slowly into a hover and check the pirouette rate.
D. Adjust the pirouette speed by setting the “Rotate Rate” value from 1 to 8 by holding the rudder stick
and pressing the menu button.
First LED: Slow Pirouette
Eighth LED: Fast Pirouette
Gyro Default settings:
A. Servo Speed: Third LED
B. Rotate Rate: First LED (Slow Pirouette)
C. Direction: First LED
D. Servo Limit: Left -25%, Right 25%
Error codes:
First LED Blinks: Disorder with built in sensor or abnormal input signal.
Second LED Blinks: No rudder input signal or abnormal input signal.
Third LED Blinks: No gain input signal or abnormal input signal.


9. Tail Rotor Limit Setting (Servo Limit)
A. Turn on the “Servo Limit” function using the menu button.
B. Move the rudder stick until the tail rotor locates at the end of its travel without binding and press the
menu button to lock it in. Do this with both left and right end points.
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