Throttle hold gives me FULL negative pitch

[Slyster]

OK.. programmed in two sets of curves... on normal mode and idle up mode... both are normal settings (no true idle up in the radio)... but now when I switch throttle hold on.. the heli instantly goes to full negative. I am worried that in a bad situation.. and I hit throttle hold.. it will drive the heli down very very hard.

How can you get throttle hold to go right to 0' pitch?

[Mon_t]

First you don't want 0 pitch. you want at least 2-3 degrees negative if you want to auto successfully.
check your throttle hold pitch curve, thats where it'll be and make it the same as your normal mode pitch curve.
50% should give you 0 pitch.
I have it the same as my idle up curve so I can flip whilst autoing down.
Not that I would recommend that you try that yet.

[Slyster]

Yep... my HOLD settings were 0 to 100 linear. I swear that changed on it's own.. really weird. Thanks that solved it! Can't believe I didn't think of that. Too many things going on with these little toys!

[LockMD]

Originally Posted by Mon_t

I have it the same as my idle up curve so I can flip whilst autoing down.
Not that I would recommend that you try that yet.

ah ha! maybe thats why I dropped so fast - I have my hold set to match idle up which is linear - so maybe I will match the normal mode and try again......I let you know if I do.


Edit: oh wait you said you match idle up not normal so your TH curve is linear then?

[Scotty T]

It is early in the moring here and my head still hurts, so if i'm off base don't slap me too hard.

Lock? Don't you want your throttle curve to be zero across the board hence the name throttle hold?

I'm confused.

I set my throttle curve to -2.0 and my pitch curve to -3 incase I need to do an auto in throttle hold.

[LockMD]

no TH is TH when you raise/lower your left stick the motor stays off you just change pitch.

[Mon_t]

Which is why I have my throttle hold pitch curve at -9 to +9 - the same as my idle-up curve.
If you are not ready for this then leave it the same as your normal mode pitch curve.
I'm no expert and someone else feel free to chime in here.... but the ones I have tried, it works for me and I've even managed a couple of half flips here and there..... now that's some scary stuff.....(I don't do this any more, my heart just stops and can't take it)

if you auto from up high.... talking more than 10ft then you will need to go negative pitch to keep your head speed up and then flare at about 2ft to stop. It also helps to maintain forward momentum (into the wind - helps generate some lift as well).
If you don't do this it will wash off all the head speed and drop like a stone.

It will drop normally but the key is to keep as much head speed as you can, and going neg pitch and having some forward speed into the wind will help this and slow the decent.

[Scotty T]

Holy confusion bat man!

Mon_t, you've brought up a good point.

If you are doing tricks in auto then yes you'll want the pitch curve to be +- 9 or 10.

But....

If the only thing you are doing is autos, then a negative 3 will suffice for good autos, more than that is just asking for a death spiral.

[LockMD]

scotty yeah my throttle curve fot TH is 0 we were talking about the pitch curve in TH LOL


okay Mon_t makes all the sense in the world I will change my TH pitch curve to match normal mode to see if I like it better.....if not, I'm gonna leave autos alone for a while

[Mon_t]

Try it with your ES600. It will be A LOT easier.
Heavier blades and bigger blade area will help keep the energy in the blades and generate more lift than your poor little 400.
I wish I had a bigger heli to learn autos on.... but thems the breaks and you make do with what you've got!

[Scotty T]

Try a pair of curtis youngblood blades, you get a little more umph when doing autos.

[Mon_t]

Did I ever mention I'm a complete tight arse!
that and I don't like the sound of cf blades.... to darn quiet....
I just love that Wop Wop Burrrrrr sound of my woodies