Kinetic 50 electric conversion

[t2o]

3rd flight, 1700 rpm. Mostly forward flight. This set-up has gobs of torque. There is no doubt in my mind that this thing will stomp my nitro version, it climbs very well and the head speed is still holding good.

Look at the watts on this next eagle tree. If 746 watts = 1 HP, and I believe it does, this configuration puts out roughly 3 horse power and it's not just a spike! Thats 33% more HP than the OS 50, no wonder it feels like a hot rod. These are all cold pack logs, performance will get better on a hot pack. The 600 plus motor barely seem to get warm... it is only 37*F outside though and thats gotta help.

Blue line = amps
Violet = pack volts
Green = head speed
Orange = watts
Red = Mah Cumulative

[t2o]

So, I took a soil sample with the K50E and while rebuilding, I thought I would add a few more pictures to illustrate how easy the conversion is.

On the K50E I removed the lower level of the radio tray (4 screws) to make room for the batteries and then had to get creative finding room to mount all the goodies under to hood

The best argument I can make for doing this is that in the last month, I have flown the K50E a dozen times and the k50n...Zero. On a cold day it is so much easier to just plug in the battery and go fly!!! Beware of the flat pack though; nitros arguably fly better as they loose fuel (and weight) electrics just loose power. The electrons apparently don't exit out the side of the motor once spent

[JustPlaneChris]

Very cool. Where did you source the motor mount and motor pinion?

[t2o]

I think I got the pinion here http://www.fxaeromodels.com/product_...oducts_id=4916

I know it is a joker 24 mod 1. Be sure to order the correct size hex wrench to fit the set screw. I did not have the right one and had to make a special trip, twice. My LHS didn't have it either.

The mount is actually a Century Part# HW6112A

http://www.heli-world.com/detail.aspx?ID=3409

and it doubles as the battery tray. You will have to cut the motor mount bit off the back and drill your own holes then use whats left for the tray. I painted the tray part black trying to avoid a short circuit in case the wrapping on MY BEAUTIFULLY MADE pack wears through.

PLEASE NOTE: NON OF THIS IS MY OWN THINKING, I TOTALLY TOOK THIS FROM:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=266753

and:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=327138

and even in that, I was helped by RAV50, who lead me to the links.

The only part I take total credit for is smashing it into the ground after it was nearly perfect!

[JustPlaneChris]

Originally Posted by t2o

The only part I take total credit for is smashing it into the ground after it was nearly perfect!

Well that's something to be proud of, right?

Thanks for the info! Looks like a really neat setup, and would work equally well on the CCPM Raven of course, and might be a bit lighter to boot!

[t2o]

It lives!

I made some minor improvements with the packaging of the electrics and thought the placement of the GY401 was a Home Run.

The Hyperion servos are tough as nails, they all survived the crash. I know they were under some heavy stress as one of the ball links on the aileron was tore in half.

All prejudice aside this thing really is ugly


http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...00mAh_6S1P_30C_
This here seems almost too good to be true! If I figured it right it weighs half as much as the A123 8S2P with a little more capacity and about half the cost. Of course it's life expectancy would be about 1/5th but for $119??? I think I must.