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Old 09-16-2008, 11:03 AM   #1
stumpe
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Default Swashplate Height?

Guys

Need a little help (well might be a lot of help), i had a nightmare at the weekend with set up - swash, blades, tail, shaft, same as always.

This time i changed all of the above and balanced blades (for the 1st time), made sure all connector rods are as per manual (some were a little out), all servos are set up at 90 at mid throttle and swashplate is nice a level, tail is ok, pitch is -5, +1, +9 so i know i need a little tinker about to get 0 at mid throttle.

But took for a little flight this afternoon and heli is all over the shop left and right, tail is ok, i have just seen a couple of other cp's pics on helifreak and the swashplate is very low on the shaft (almost touching the bit that keeps the shaft held in place), is this right and if not how do i raise the swash without changing the connector rod lengths.

hope this makes sense.

Lee
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Old 09-16-2008, 11:32 AM   #2
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Make sure you are in idel up when setting up at mid stick! Yes my swashplate is very low!
lower all 3 links that connect to the swash until you have the same pitch +/- at high/low stick and 0 in the middle. Sounds like you need to drop the swash until it reads -1 deg of pitch at mid stick then adjust the pitch of each blade to 0 using the links that connect to the blade holders then check your pitch range again. If my math is correct this should give you +7 high 0 mid -7 low stick! give it a try and get back here with the results!
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Old 09-16-2008, 12:36 PM   #3
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Using a DX6i and i am not using the idle up, as just hovering at the moment without no training gear.

Do i need to enable idle up to set swash up as not done this before (newbie)

Lee
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Old 09-16-2008, 01:02 PM   #4
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Yes DISCONECT THE MOTOR power on the heli put it in idel up with the throttle stick at mid stick this is where your settings are made from! At mid stick in Idelup this should be set to 0 deg pitch on the blades and your high stick pitch should be th same as your low stick pitch only one is + and the other minus. Mine reads +8 at high stick 0 at mid stick and -8 at low stick.
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Old 09-16-2008, 01:04 PM   #5
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BTW this is also the point to level the swashplate(idelup mid stick)!
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Old 09-16-2008, 03:58 PM   #6
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Hey Guys, hope I can help with a setup-tip on the DX6i. I have it programmed so I can do the setup in t.hold mode.

I have t.hold mode throttle curve set to 0/0/0/0/0 and the pitch curve for this mode is linear (straight line) from 0% to 100% (0/25/50/75/100) So by flicking the t.hold switch, I can do the swash/pitch setup this way, without the heli spinning up!

Safety note : Be sure the Tx is in a safe place where it won't get knocked over and the t.hold switch turned off accidentally...I'm sure you can imagine the result if your not at 0% throttle!!!

Ps. In thottle hold mode the line is always horizontal so throttle can also be programmed to 100/100/100/100/100, with fully programmable pitch curve!!!

I have mine programmed so :-
Normal Mode = Hover mode
F.Mode = 3D mode, with 100/90/80/90/100 throttle curve.
T.Hold Mode = For Autorotations and setup. (you can also use throttle cut button, but this can also be reprogrammed to start the timer, so give you the option of flicking the switch instead!)

Ps 2. I haven't even tried auto's or f.mode yet stumpe, but I'm almost ready, hopefully will only be a few more weeks!!!
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Old 09-16-2008, 04:20 PM   #7
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All you are looking for is complete freedom of movement of the swashplate throughout the range of control. After disabling the motor [!!!!!], and in STUNT, a little trial and error soon locates that position. The one to check is the full negative stick position in STUNT, as this is where you might get some rub on the frame when you test the cyclic.



Off thread:
These computer TXs are great for fiddling around. Over a period of around a month, I gradually upped the head speed so that the NORM and STUNT throttle settings from mid stick were the same. Couple that with setting the PITCH the same for the 3,4,5 position on the stick in NORM and STUNT, when you go to STUNT, the heli feels and responds the same. So long as you remember it will go down very much quicker in STUNT !!!

Mike
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Old 09-16-2008, 04:26 PM   #8
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Nice short explanation mike - I just can't seem to manage it and go off on one too much!!
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Old 09-17-2008, 09:26 AM   #9
stumpe
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Guys

Thanks for all the advice, had 2 batterys no problem last night heli was the best i have ever flown (spent 2 days getting set up right), just had so much fun without crashing

I know have another problem, the boom that goes into the mounting plate on the heli keeps sliding inwards and makes the belt loose when spooling up which = crash city (early this morning), i have tried tape around the boom but still does not help, i also have another problem as it seems 3 out of the 4 screws do not tighten all the way up (will try some more screws sizes), everytime i tighten up the screws in the boom housing it splits the boom (CRAPPY ESKY)

Do you think using the Trex boom from here will make a difference http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/hz03...ack-p-126.html, as i am at the end my patience with this heli and seem to spend more time reparing than actually flying, and its not always due to crashes it just seems i have a good few flights and my confindence goes up, then some thing else goes wrong and zapps all confindence back to square one.

PS cant find the length of the Esky tail boom, can anyone advise as my digi meas will not measure that far and did not want to et the measurements wrong, i know the Trex is 347mm...

I will wait for your comments, but i feel if the Trex boom will fit but still does not stop the problem of the slide in the hosuing it's going to be a whole new frame, which to be honest i just cannot cope with a full rebuild so might just sell up.

A pissed of heli bloke.

Lee
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Old 09-17-2008, 10:33 AM   #10
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The Belt boom is definately longer, I think it is 354mm, but you could always get a Trex belt too.

Mike
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Old 09-17-2008, 11:55 AM   #11
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I had the same problem you can use some sandpaper to scuff up the boom a little to make it "grippy" in the plastic. It also sounds like you have stripped your screw holes so you'll need to get bigger dia.screws or the boom just wont hold and remember the frame is plastic, plastic strips easily so don't over tighten your screws! I have a carbon frame w/ cnc upgrades(which is busted at the moment) but no boom slippage with that ever! Only now that I crashed that and had to use the plastic frame have I had these problems! Can't wait to do my carbon/cnc rebuild!(buget requires me to rebuild plastic ver. this time) The reality Stumpe, is that rebuilding is part of the hobby. If you've been reading latley I just did a rebuild add totaled it in 1 day. So I'm rebuliding again when my parts get here tomorrow from scratch again! Its not just the Belt either any heli you get you will need to rebuild at some point. Yes it's frustrating sometimes but the end result is always a better heli which you can appreciate in the field! Each time you rebuild or do the set up it gets easier and easier! I've been in your shoes,(with out that fancy Tx) in fact we all have and you'll get a new pair just as soon as you wear those out! Nothing in this hobby happens over night(ok my last rebuild did! HE HE) be patient and be rewarded don't rush it! Take your time and do things right and when you go and fly you will forget your frustrations because your heli flies so good and you fixed it.(a double reward good feeling and good flying) "STICK" WITH IT!!!!
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Master of: the living room, stockTx, mechanical setup and, the obvious!
Belt'ish CP FBL, HDX 500 DFC, New V120D02S FBL, Mini CP FBL, Hirobo Shuttle ZX, HK450 PRO V2 TT DFC, QR-X350PRO
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Old 09-17-2008, 03:21 PM   #12
stumpe
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Feel a lot better now i have calmed down a bit and had think about the problem, i have come up with a solution that might work (not tried it yet).

Everytime the heli throttle got higher the boom would pop into the housing, so i pushed the boom in as far as it would go, and then pulled the cnc tail out about 7mm, and now the belt is nice and tight and boom feels alot tighter.

I have just brought some nice screw / bolts that i was thinking of drilling the hole's out???????? and using the bolt and screw to put through the hole and using loctight on the thread sith one spacer either side The look nice and neat when put on top of the boom housing.....Anybody else tried this, should i not do this?


Or should just try bigger screws?

Will try to put the old girl in the air tomorrow if i can find time..

Cheers for all the help and advice again
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Old 09-18-2008, 04:13 AM   #13
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I had the same problem with the screws on my old frame, I used a drop of thread lock in each hole before I screwed it up and it held ok. The problem is that if you overtighten those screws they just rip the thread out the plastic.
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