Here are some final photos.
This is how I did my plumbing. I went from outside tank hole to the carb. Then from the carb overflow to a T and then to the middle tank hole. The T allows me to quickly refuel and I used some hayes fuel line so I could use a left over align clamp. That clamp wouldn't make a complete seal on tygon.
I looped the overflow down and around the back support behind the fuel tank and then ran it out on the supports. So far I have not had any leaks or issues. This works for me. I also needed a fuel filter on the inside of the tank and I needed to to be like a fuel magnet. After searching around, I was able to locate this at my local advance auto parts store and it has worked flawlessly for 2 gallons.
It is a MaxPower 1/8" Fuel Filter for small engines. A $3 fuel magnet, and you can't beat that!
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ci_sku=6180059
I installed a spektrum lipo monitor and a switch to turn it off/on. I made use of the existing slit in the frame for that switch. Please note those silver washer things I used to secure the switch. Those are the exact washers I used on the GV1 sensor on the inside of the frame to extend it out a little further over the bell/magnets.
I mounted the GV1 right up top. Some argue this is not a good location, but it works for me and has had no bad affects. Plus, as you can see, the wires are short and they all manage to fit perfectly.
I went with some Radix Cosmetic Flaw 710's just to see how they work. I figured having more weight might benefit from having a little more blade. I am going to switch back to the 690's after I get used to the 710's so I can make a good comparison. You will also notice I don't sport the fin up top on the tail boom. I think they look ridiculous and don't use them unless I have too.
I was beginning to notice the skids tweaking a little when I picked the heli up. I noticed this even when this was a nitro. I decided to do something about it and drilled some holes down into the skid pipes and went with some heavy duty M3 screws. They are 100% solid now.
Here is the ferrit I used to help shield the sensor wire.
And finally, here is where I mounted the GV1 sensor. I used the holes I made for the align sensor. I did have to dremel the holes up about 1mm to give the sensor a little more clearance off the bell. I am going to cut those screws down eventually. You will notice I used some fairly long screws. Since you have to install the sensor with the bell installed, you need some long screws to help you navigate the sensor around in the frame and hit the holes. I chose to go with nuts with lock washers on the outside. Trying to get nuts on the inside was impossible. The order would be, Sensor, silver washers to frame to lock washer to nut. Works perfectly.
I have also used the Align MOD1 main gear and have to say it works well. I don't haven't really banged on it too hard but when I did have it installed, it sounded good and ran smooth. It actually has a better mesh than the MicroHeli gear and probably won't strip. This is just my opinion with what little time I put on one.