View Single Post
Old 01-19-2013, 01:31 AM   #18 (permalink)
Registered Users
Posts: 1,504
My HF Map location
Join Date: Oct 2006
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by rdlohr View Post
Finally started my build. Figured I would start a thread to keep track of my questions, answers, notes, tips and such. I also plan to mark up my owners manual and make it available.

First observation. The nicely machined parts all came separately packaged with associated hardware separated in 2 squares of foam with slots cut out for each. I like that because it protects the parts and keeps them in place for me while I build.

The only nit improvement I could think of would be to individually mark each slot or bag and reference them from the manual so that you don't have to pull parts out to see if they are what you need.

Assembly 1 Flybarless Head:
The manual calls out an M3 x 10 screw for the Head Button, but if you use it, it hits the Flap Inserts. I used an M3 x 8 screw from my parts bin instead.

The manual calls out Gray or White Dampers but I was provided Gray and Black. I assumed the Black replaced the White as medium stiffness and used them.

TIP: There was a note to install the pinch screws first. They have to be installed first since they can't be put in once the Radius Arms are installed. I would recommend doing page 2 first which installs the main shaft (including these screws) prior to doing page 1. That way you can loctite the screws prior to installing them (as normal) rather than have to slip in the loctite after the fact.

This is the first time I have ever used Red Loctite for screws that might need removal in a crash so I am a bit worried that they will be hard to remove. I'm sure the designers had good reason so I did it.

Assembly 2: Flybarless Head:

TIP: Clean the screws M6x16 screws and feathering shaft threads with alcohol to remove the machining oil. I guess this is standard practice but especially important here.

NOTE: The Damper Spacer and Thrust Washer are brass.

So far, so good. I love that the Radius arms attach to the head rather than having to attach them to a movable sleeve that has to be placed properly!

Hope these posts help someone.
While building my head, I took notice of this advice. I double checked the screw length, and threaded the 3x10 into the head without the flap inserts or head button. It did not want to continue into the head block, the screw never protruded into the center. Not that it wasn't long enough, but it was tightening up like it was bottoming out, even though you could clearly see that the hole was drilled completely through.

I then installed the head button with the 3x10, and found that it took considerable wrist strength to tighten up. I stopped tightening as soon as the button stopped being able to spin. The 3x10 still was not protruding into the center of the hub.

Thank you for pointing this out Rick, as I wouldn't have bothered to even pay attention most likely. Maybe Charlie made an adjustment to the height of the head button, or maybe you got a thinner hub?
Goblin 500 Sport HW 100v3 Brain2 KST Rail 516
Pr˘tos stretch AR7200BX Sav÷x 1250/1290MG Switch 473
180CFX DX18
RCHN #0650 AMA# 448427
th0rg0d is offline        Reply With Quote