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Old 05-10-2008, 09:47 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Join Date: Mar 2007

Well I've got the heli apart and noticed a few things that are going to have to be customized. The main gear that I bought from Erwin was the $12 standard replacement. He had a custom machine cut one for in the $30 some odd dollar range. I figured the standard ought to work and wasn't quite willing to shell out over 30 bucks for a main gear. It wouldn't fit over the one way hub at all. So I chucked it up on the lathe to find out it was 30 some thousandths out of round (the center hole). So I turned it true (on the lathe)with some shaving and got a nice snug fit. He also sold me a carborator collar intake coupling that looks just like the Z-RC unit with teflon gaskets (Who had that design first? And who owns the patent?). There's a thrust bearing at the lower end of the main shaft that seems like a good idea. However the race ring that sits against the radial bearing sits against the radials inner race as well as the outer race. This means that the thrust bearings upper race will drag against the rotating inner race of the lower main bearing (the radial). So I put that on the lathe and turned a coupla thousandths off the upper outer surface of the thrust race so the inner race of the radial main bearing spins free. The clutch issue that seems to have caused the main gear teeth issue was a screw set in some kind of epoxy against the inside of the clutch shoes. Now I don't know if this is standard procedure for adding weight to the shoe to get it to expand at lower rpms or what. But one of the screws (that don't seem to be holding anything) was hitting the inside vent of the clutch bell. Wether or not this is a company thing or the guy that owned it before I bought it used . So I'm going to get a replacement altogether. Also the clutch bell is only held in position with the hex starter reciever. The starter shaft that holds the clutch bell will slide down till the bell sits on top of the clutch shoes if that hex socket comes loose. I've drilled and taped two more grub screw holes to secure the socket better. There needs to be a thin washer to separate the tail drive gear from the main gear as well. No mention of it in the manual. The manual mentions to check the clutch runnout but doesn't say anything about how or what to do about adjusting it . Maybe there's some ignorance on my part being new to fuel based clutches. I locktighted the front tail drive pully grub screw, but it has some play in it now. So I gotta pull that out and see if there's a flat spot, or make a small one (the shaft isn't that big) to get more authority on that grub screw. Probably have to red lock the whole pully and screw onto the shaft. I better take a closer look at the tail shaft just incase. Untill I get a new clutch it will sit at this stage. Ya know these parts look and seem to be made great. I just see alot of design details that need to be simplified and addressed. This heli could be a great heli otherwise. These details either are overlooked or simply shrugged at and blown off . I mean if you gotta fuss around to the point of needing shop machine equipment...WTF! I'll have it straightened out if it means that the design gets an overhaul to the point of non recognition He He...Latter folks
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