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Old 11-17-2019, 09:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
Thomas.Heiss
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Germany / Nuremberg
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Hi,

the Nano S2 has SAFE on board.
Check the related forum - it has been said by pilots that you can't completely be turned OFF and that the S2 does not fly like a NanoCPx.

I had a Cpx back in 2012/2013...I flew it inverted as well...tested my first funnels, etc.
But even it was only 30g it could not take a beating.


Are you talking about the Mcpx V2 (1s, brushed) and manual brushless conversions?
Or the new Mcpx BL 2 (2s)?

I definitely would not get the quite old Mcpx V2 (brushed) which only worked on DSM2 as the main motor is not powerful enough and that model, which a friend of me flew, did not have that good tail hold; the NanoCpx was better.

It is the 21th century...I would not get a brushed main motor anymore, definitely not.
Way too much trouble back in 2012 with the NanoCpx.
And with Blade you simply won't get very high motor quality so you will end up having to replace the main motor on a regular basis.

If you want something smaller than a 230 or 150s, get a XK K110 (1s, BL main, 60g).
It definitely can take a beating (much more than a Nano or Mcpx V2)!!!

It also feels quite direct in the 3G mode....there definitely is not any safe / stability mode activated when I fly in that mode so it would behave "too brave".
Only the tail motor is brushed (0720mm) but it holds pretty well in pitch pumps or fast forward flight / curves.
If you have 1-3 helis you can switch between them and give the other one a rest for 6,5 minutes (=flying time on 450-520mah).

It has way more power with the bigger 1s lipo - even on the white Walkera plug - than the Nanocpx which is just great outside.
I warmed the 1s lipos to ~34-37 degree celcius for 60-90 minutes and simply flew it outside at +5-8 degree celcius.
But of course you can feel it: 1s vs 2s vs 3s when the main motor is bogging a little bit. Still have no Tattu 600mah lipos here to check for any difference.

I am still dailing it in (I need a good heli blade balancer for 1,7-1,8mm) with weird side effects on swashplate leveling, without or drift with canopy and required trims (which you should not do on a FBL heli)......but in summer (K110 #1) I tried first flips and it worked when I changed the foam pad with a red M3 VHB.
My K110 #3 has the grey and a bit thicker M3 foam pad installed which a German Walkera dealer sent to me.
I will be throwing out the standard black (quite high, but wobbles around) foam pad from XK and test another one on it with the V6 version number printed on the boad.

Maybe the K110 is a bit too small for you if you already fly the 230s and you are looking at the 150s (carbon chassis, brushless tail motor).

In the end it all depends on your RC budget, your flight style (if 1s is sufficient for you, of course 1s lipos work better outside when it is +15-18 degree celcius or more) and where you are flying.

You can fly the K110 in a triple indoor gym if you have any access to.
I did that with the Nanocpx and it was fun.
My friend flew his 130x there...another level in front of the roof and walls.
If you know how to fly very well the 150s probably is no problem too, but I am not sure as it is based on the 180cfx (I think).

I am also not sure if it is a really good idea to fly the K110 in a (triple) gym with multiple other pilots at the same time or when they fly the Blade micro heli stuff all in parallel.

Sure...it probably can take beating even on the hard floor or walls, BUT:

There is this small 101 inductor installed right besides the B+ solder pad.
On the #1 K110 I managed to get the board damaged when it it the hard concrete because I was trying to get this stupid 6G mode working which resulted in a HEAVY backwards drift / flight behind me and slammed onto the small street landing place in the wood.
I found out I can probably resolder the 101 inductor and measured the 3.3V pad on the back of the board...but finally made the board (probably small SMD resistor or something like that) smoke as I accidentally hit the wrong place with my milliamp meter below the 101 inductor / near the B+ pad.

Before that I burned the 1s ESC when I tried to solder another JST-PH 2.0 cable - in parallel - onto the existing +- pads.
I did it wrong....ESC got damaged.
In the end that error cost me almost the whole flying season :-(
But you can get it for cheap in China and you can install BlHeli on it to have a governor.
A governor on a 1s micro heli....sounds nice to me....but first I need to calibrate the min/max throttle points.


This is another point about micros:


You need a vendor with a REALLY good warranty program (which HH / Blade does IMHO not provide anymore since the investor changes)

OR

where you can get replacement boards and gyros for cheap.

Better don't expect from HorizonHobby that they replace you boards or receivers for free just because you crashed the heli somewhere.
And even if you do not crash....those boards with many SMD electronic is not meant to be free from defects for long....I read in the Nano S2 forum that it only takes a few flights (under 50) and the board is not working anymore and needs to be replaced by HH / LHS (they agreed/confirmed the swap).

When the tail gyro was suddenly not working anymore on the Nanocpx my LHS had a great support, sent it (the whole heli) to HH and I got a new board within the first six months which solved the issue.
That was really good service!

But now (for a while) other people (from 130s) get told that flying does not cover warranty as it is only guaranteed to be defect-free when you open the box and do your ground checkout / first flight.

It somehow got so much more difficult with LHS or Horizon, dunno why.
Just read the forums how people are ocassionally dealt with and what is being said to them on telephone or e-mail ....

........and because of this my 200QX 4in1 ESC board is still defective when two mosfets + resistor burned in 2015 when I tried to connect the motor on a new (carbon) frame.

A new ESC would be 90EUR replacement costs! Ridiculous!
What is the production cost for this thing in China?
Why can't I simply expect as a customer to be able to buy a cheaper / sponsored one from HH (Kulanz) with time a little over 6 months for ~20-25EUR when the full (vendor) warranty does not cover it anymore?
It is not really fun having to "convince" a HH dealer to send it in in parts when HH wants it in "one piece" in their original crappy white plastic chassis which immediately breaks just when you look at it :-)


Best advise ever:

Stay away from micro Blade/E-Flite boards as long as you can not do SMD soldering for yourself!
Check ahead what the concrete replacement parts of a (proprietary, dual motor driven) FBL or RX in a Blade heli are and if they are any affordable.
Don't expect to benefit from warranty regulations from HH after a few weeks or months flying when something goes wrong....their game has IMHO drastically changed in comparison to 2012/beginning of 2013 (and I heard some stories about the 200srx/230 V1 proprietary dual esc + tail motor issues pilots had running through sets of them when only one gone bad which does not convince me to get it, even if everything has probably improved with a V2).

BTW: The Blade 230s V2 still has the same (limited) red JST BEC plug.
If you want to swap it for a Dean ultra, green MPX or yellow XT30 or XT60 plug you will void the warranty of the ESC!
This does not really motivate me as HH has then found something which they can rely on to get around their warranty if electronic fails.

-------------------------------

My impression from the videos on youtube and discussions in the HF (main) forum is that you probably should get a OMPHOBBY M2 if you want to have something in that 230er size.

- Direct- driven main motor with lots of power
- Brushless tail motor
- 3s lipo (which obviously gives you more power than a 1s K110)
- FBL unit (but proprietary because the dual ESC is integrated)
- supporting rescue/stability

So now the question may be K110 vs Blade 150s / 230 V2 vs M2 :-)

The M2 comes with the "right" plug :-)

Let us know what your final decision is.

Best regards
__________________
Walkera Devo 10/DeviationTX (12CH DSMx & telemetry)...Ex-DX8...Blade 4503D...Walkera V120D02s...Blade 200QX BL Quad...StrykerQ (LEDs, M2 tuning)...Ex-NanoCPX...Ex-120SR...Ex-MPX EGP...PPZ P51-D Mustang...PZ Wildcat (searching fuselage-firewall)
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