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Old 11-30-2019, 11:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
mejmea
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Join Date: Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franknsled View Post
Yes. Blue solid but wouldn't change to blinking no matter how long I held the sticks. Kept trying and finally got blinking blue and did hover but light just kept blinking until battery went lvc. 4 minutes. Now heli just wants to go forward. Have to hold back elevator constantly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by franknsled View Post
Tried a couple of drift calibrations. Even took off blades and taped it to the bench. Can enter the calibration mode(flashing re/blue) but when done I flip the trainer/bind switch and the lights keep flashing. I have an aluminum swash on the way so I guess I'll wait and see if that gets rid of this small backward drift.
Not sure if you got this all sorted to your satisfaction or not....

Make sure your control throws are all at 100% and TH is off when you are trying to get it into calibration mode. If you have dual rates set and are on low rates when you try to do this it won't work.

To save the calibration after you land, activate panic mode. I know the instruction say to press the bind button but what it really means is to active panic mode. In my case, for example, panic mode is not actuated by the bind button so I have to remember to do it with the switch I've designated.

Over the the RCG thread on this heli I've seen a number of people say that it took several sequential calibration flights to get theirs to stop drifting. That was not the case for me but YMMV. I do think it is important to try and hover with as little stick motion as possible (as stated in the instructions) as it seems like the system is basically trying to "measure" the average offset(s)you are having to hold in and then save those internally as trim values.

I too have only ever leveled the swash visually but you can be more precise if you set your pitch so that your blade tips are even when the blades are folded back on each other. Then slowly rotate the head and watch the blade tips. If they stay even all the way around then the swash is level. If they separate as you rotate the head and then come back together at the starting point the swash is not level and the servo links need to be tweaked.

On an unrelated note but simply as general information: I found that with a linear pitch curve, if I set my pitch stick to 50% I did not have zero pitch (i.e. the blade tips were not even when the blades were folded back on each other). There wasn't enough thread on the servo links to make the proper adjustment (I couldn't screw the front two ball links on any further) so the solution was to loosen the head screws, slide the head up slightly on the main shaft until I got zero pitch, and then tighten the head screws again. Personally I don't love this method, it seems like things should be in the proper position when the head is pushed all the way on the main shaft, but it's the only way to do it afaik.
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