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..The sun is out!...Let's go FLYING....False alarm...
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Heli-Log 4:14:14

Posted 04-14-2014 at 11:00 AM by rcnut
Updated 04-14-2014 at 02:46 PM by rcnut

The rest of the build…

After installing the PEM nuts, it was time to install the fuel tank. I looked at the overflow nipple and main fuel line wondering how I was getting those to pass through the frame. The tank is not that flexible, so I couldn’t press in on the tank to make the overflow nipple slip under the frame opening. So I tried twisting the tank in…and it worked! It slipped in very easy…now good luck with getting it out should the need arise! I wire-tied the vent line close to the top and front of the tank (so it wouldn’t rub on the main gear and rest up against the motor), with enough pressure on the wire-ties to hold the vent line in place, and then I “Gooped” the wire-tie to the tank so it doesn’t move.

I bolted the right frame to the left frame, and then installed all the servos. I had to sand the slots in the frame and the pin guide for the anti-rotation plate; it was a very tight fit. Next is the motor, however, before I install it…I pulled the spark plug out to install the Trail Tech Temperature Meter (14mm plug diameter). First you remove the crush washer, and then I placed the spark plug into the temp sensor ring and into the cylinder. This allowed me to trace around the sensor so I can sand away a relief in the heat shield/fan shroud…clearance for the temp sensor.

The motor dropped in so easy that I thought I was doing something wrong! I added the screws to the motor mount and the landing gear. When I removed the landing gear from the nitro frame, I only removed the 4 screws holding the gear assembly to the frame. The landing gear assembly bolted directly to the new frame perfectly! Now my Trex 700 is looking like a heli once again, but now a “gas” heli!

Now the only thing(s) left to mount, outside of the electronics, is the tail section, muffler, and canopy. The electronics is for the most part, straight forward. Look for places to mount stuff and go for it. The AR7200BX is mounted towards the back of the receiver plate, the GV-1 in front, and directly under is the 2 cell LiPo. The Stator Gator is mounted (Gooped) to the frame by the sparkplug. I mounted the temp gauge at the right rear of the frame, just above the boom clamp. The extra satellite receiver is mounted below it.

I flipped the elevator servo around to utilize a shorter linkage to the swashplate as the longer link that come in the Trex 700 kit is a couple of millimeters short and rubs against the anti-rotation bracket. Now all three links to the swashplate are the same size. There’s about 6 turns on each link which has me concerned. I’ll look into replacing/modifying this possible problem later.
(Note: setting up the servo to swash links has me somewhat concerned; the Align rods are not quite long enough IMO. I’m looking at using Curtis Youngblood’s Rave ENV head links. Of course I will need to cut a few millimeters off each end as those are too long. The bigger diameter link is a plus, for the type of flying I plan to do with this…I’m being cautious is all! There’s a lot of motor in this heli (HP wise) and it is a 13.xx pound pig! LoL!)

I used a 5 arm Futaba horn for the servo to the carb. I used the middle hole (second one out from the center) for a very close geometry setting in the radio! Then I started plumbing the tank/carb. Tygon fuel line straight from the main fuel line from the tank to the carb, a return line from the carb to the top of the tank with a cut in the middle for a fueling “T” and plug, and the vent line was routed to the bottom of the heli.

One thing I forgot to mention was adding a vent fitting for the tank. I had a spare tank vent fitting from Miniature Aircraft, an older kit leftover. Carey states to drill the hole one inch in from the side, so it doesn’t get in the way of the frame. However, I placed my hole closer to the front of the tank (lower in height) instead of towards the rear (closer to the top of the tank). Having the vent fitting there will allow me to fill the tank fuller.

Now for the programming! At this point, the tail assembly is off of the heli, so it’s just the main frame. I start by leveling the mainshaft. I care less where the frame is in balance. My thought here is; the mainshaft needs to be squared 90 degrees with the swashplate and then 90 degrees to the servos…and of course 90 degrees to the main blades. By doing this, all my heli’s fly off the bench perfectly trimmed…well, 97% of the time! After setting up the Beast X and the GV-1, now is the time for the tail assembly, muffler and canopy.

The tail assembly was straight forward as well. I just bolted it in place and connected the boom supports...done! Well except for the tail push rod. I located a 4 arm Futaba servo horn and used the last hole out...perfect! Went into the Beast X programming to center the servos, all 4 servos center in menue "G" for as long as you want...no timeouts. I found the side/position of the horn for the tail servo, centered the control arm slightly adjusted the push rod, set the end points, and done!

The muffler is straight forward, 2 screws and bolt on. The canopy, on the other hand, needed a little cutting and sanding to fit right. I have a brand new, never used stock version 1 canopy. It fit…somewhat, but I had to force it gently. The front bottom of the canopy was pressing into the frame, so I marked the area and used my Dremel small drum sander and relieved about ¼” of the canopy. The muffler was the next big area. I had to cut a relief channel, a long “U” shape relief into the canopy to keep the canopy away from the muffler; otherwise it will [in time] burn scorch) the canopy. The canopy fits like a glove now, but the color scheme needs to change!

Next up…the first 2 flights!
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