Manuals are available!

[SynergyAero]

Woohoo the Manuals are out



http://www.goblin-helicopter.com/sho...0_Rev1_Eng.pdf

http://www.goblin-helicopter.com/sho...Rev1.1_Ita.pdf



Cris

[ste_23_66]

Nice manual.

[OnTheSnap]

A good read. Very well written, with excellent grammar.

Lots of assemblies are pre-assembled at the factory. Very nice. Wish I didn't have to pull them apart and re-assemble them.

The weight listed for a standard electronic installation is 3290g. 7.25lb. I just weighed my 700e without packs and it's 3485g. Basically 200g heavier.

So if the Goblin is half a pound lighter than my 700e, I'll be a very very happy camper.

[felborn]

Very nice indeed, they really put down some work on this, and it was about time we got a small update to keep our spirit lifted. They mentioned more information on their youtube channel concering a few steps of the build, but so fare thats not been posted. A nice surprise on a snowy day!

[geekindenial]

It's a very nice manual. I like how they have neatly arranged content of the box too (according to manual).

The manual did mention that the battery tray could be adapted to allow batteries upto 64mm but didn't specify exactly how (where to drill those extra holes). Once the build threads have been started I hope some one here would point that out as I want to do that.

[alexvan]

Originally Posted by geekindenial

The manual did mention that the battery tray could be adapted to allow batteries upto 64mm but didn't specify exactly how (where to drill those extra holes). Once the build threads have been started I hope some one here would point that out as I want to do that.

From the manual the holes seem already drilled.

[PHANTMXR6]

Excitement excitement.

[geekindenial]

Yes you are right. Went through the manual again carefully and I found the alternate positions for the battery tray already listed and drilled. Fantastic. Great job SAB!!!!!

[gww528]

Originally Posted by alexvan

From the manual the holes seem already drilled.

That's correct, the holes are drilled. On Bert's Blue prototype only one set of holes are drilled instead of two sets.

[SynergyAero]

Originally Posted by OnTheSnap

Lots of assemblies are pre-assembled at the factory. Very nice. Wish I didn't have to pull them apart and re-assemble them.

I agree, I have always disassembled... cleaned... and re-assembled with appropriate thread-lock, all the factory-built sections.

HOWEVER, I just noticed in the manual on page 2:

Factory pre-assembled components have been assembled with all the required thread lock and lubricants, and have passed quality control. It is not necessary to disassemble and re-assemble them.

Hmmm... decisions decisions

Cris

[OnTheSnap]

Originally Posted by SynergyAero

I agree, I have always disassembled... cleaned... and re-assembled with appropriate thread-lock, all the factory-built sections.

HOWEVER, I just noticed in the manual on page 2:



Hmmm... decisions decisions

Cris

Good eye! Hmm. Usually you never see this sort of thing since companies avoid the liability of such a statement.

Still given the torture I plan to impart on my Goblin I feel better inspecting every inch. I don't want them to sneak in a hole on my feathering shaft.

[alexvan]

At page 26, figure 4. What is the thin black wire attached to the black wire from Jive?

[alexf1852]

Originally Posted by alexvan

At page 26, figure 4. What is the thin black wire attached to the black wire from Jive?

Most likely a static wire.

[alexvan]

Originally Posted by alexf1852

Most likely a static wire.

Connected to the frame?

[alexf1852]

Originally Posted by alexvan

Connected to the frame?

Yes. Or tail boom if there is no continuity between the tail boom and frame. Some folks tie a static wire to the motor mount and some to the negative battery cable of the ESC. I had issue with my Logo 600 when I had the static wire only going to the motor mount. If the weather got dry enough, I got static hits on my vbar. After routing the static wire to the negative of the battery, I never had a static hit since.

Even on my Protos, there is about 40 ohms between tail case and motor mount because the plastic composite frame does conduct. But it isn't enough to prevent static hits if the weather gets dryer than normal.

[alexvan]

Do you plan to use the static wire on the Goblin? From the Bert video seems to be optional.

[OnTheSnap]

Originally Posted by alexvan

Do you plan to use the static wire on the Goblin? From the Bert video seems to be optional.

After assembly I will be using a DMM to measure the continuity from tail to the motor mount. If it's not reasonably low, I will be grounding my entire Goblin from head to tail. I've had many issues with static on various belt models including the Protos and Logo. Not worth taking a chance.

According to Bert it's not needed. But I will wait for my DMM to tell me the reality of it.

[gww528]

Originally Posted by alexf1852

Yes. Or tail boom if there is no continuity between the tail boom and frame. Some folks tie a static wire to the motor mount and some to the negative battery cable of the ESC. I had issue with my Logo 600 when I had the static wire only going to the motor mount. If the weather got dry enough, I got static hits on my vbar. After routing the static wire to the negative of the battery, I never had a static hit since.

Even on my Protos, there is about 40 ohms between tail case and motor mount because the plastic composite frame does conduct. But it isn't enough to prevent static hits if the weather gets dryer than normal.

There are pros & cons to grounding the negative wire of the ESC/battery. If by chance you have a battery short to the frame you can toast your electronics.

[scoti333]

Does anyone know if a motor shaft of 27.5mm will work? Thanks

[aris2024]

Originally Posted by gww528

There are pros & cons to grounding the negative wire of the ESC/battery. If by chance you have a battery short to the frame you can toast your electronics.

If by chance you have a battery short to the frame the only thing you can toast is the frame, (maybe a little bit) and or harm your battery but not the electronics. In case you have not power up your heli yet and the red pole of your battery comes in contact with the frame, the electronics are not part of the circuit and high current is not able to pass through them.
Now in case you have power up the heli and the red pole of your battery comes in contact with the frame you will have a power down to your electronics as most of the current (or all of it depends from the resistance of the short circuit) will pass from the short circuit leaving less or non available for the electronics.