Align 800MX Maintenance Help Needed

[davehour]

Hi all,

While doing maintenance to my 800MX motor, I found the stator bearing needed replacement. When I was removing the stator bearing, the stator moved out of the stator carrier some millimeters. I moved the stator back to its place, but now I noticed I can make the stator rotate in the stator carrier if I apply force with my hand. I see the stator has an anti-rotation slot so this shouldn't be happening. I believe moving the stator broke the retaining compound or something.

I also found the bearings being used in the motor are Japanese 6800z bearings. The shaft is fine so I would buy the bearings and not the bearings/shaft kit Align sell.


Where can I get these Japanese bearings?
What can I do to fix the stator/stator carrier issue?

Thanks,

David

[prototype3a]

I like to drill/tap mine and install a M2 screw.

[davehour]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

I like to drill/tap mine and install a M2 screw.

Ok, thanks.

Does this motor come with a pin in the stator carrier from factory to prevent rotation of the stator?

[prototype3a]

I would expect it to have one but I've never actually had a 800mx in my hands.

[davehour]

After thinking about what happened, I've decided to leave the motor as is. The stator moved a bit and it wasn't rotated when it was moved, so nothing should had broken. I believe it came from factory that way so I hope it works fine after I put it back. It's possible I do more harm drilling/tapping it.

Thanks for the help.

[_Dekker]

You should insert a pin. If you don't you risk damage to motor and esc. Stock there is no pin and sometimes the motors come apart too easily.
In stead of tapping I suggest the following:
With a dremel cut off disk, cut a shallow groove in the side of the stator carrier along approx 15mm length.
Goal is to create a channel for a 1.5mm diameter drill, so it does not have to remove as much material.
Be careful not to drill too deep as the drill chuck could touch the windings.
Use epoxy when putting the stator carrier back in the motor and insert a 10mm long 1.5mm dia piece of piano wire in the drilled hole.

[davehour]

Originally Posted by _Dekker

You should insert a pin. If you don't you risk damage to motor and esc. Stock there is no pin and sometimes the motors come apart too easily.
In stead of tapping I suggest the following:
With a dremel cut off disk, cut a shallow groove in the side of the stator carrier along approx 15mm length.
Goal is to create a channel for a 1.5mm diameter drill, so it does not have to remove as much material.
Be careful not to drill to far as the drill chuck could touch the windings.
Use epoxy when putting the stator carrier back in the motor and insert a 10mm long 1.5mm dia piece of piano wire in the drilled hole.

If I got it right, this means I'll have to remove the stator out of the stator carrier, make the groove in the stator carrier, then, apply epoxy in the stator center and install it back to the stator carrier. Next, drill along the groove I made so I can install a 1.5 piano pin.

[_Dekker]

Yes. But first do a loose fit without glue and drill. After that glue and insert pin.

[davehour]

Originally Posted by _Dekker

Yes. But first do a loose fit without glue and drill. After that glue and insert pin.

I should drill with the stator installed in the stator carrier, right? This mean the drill will be drilling between the stator carrier groove and stator core plates slot.

Does drilling the stator core plates affect the flux due to the conductivity now imparted by the drilling process and pin installed? I ask this because the stator core is made of sandwiched plates that are electrically isolated from each other to reduce the eddy current looses.

[davehour]

Originally Posted by _Dekker

You should insert a pin. If you don't you risk damage to motor and esc. Stock there is no pin and sometimes the motors come apart too easily.

Wow, how come they design motors like that with such imminent risk?

[davehour]

Originally Posted by _Dekker

You should insert a pin. If you don't you risk damage to motor and esc. Stock there is no pin and sometimes the motors come apart too easily.
In stead of tapping I suggest the following:
With a dremel cut off disk, cut a shallow groove in the side of the stator carrier along approx 15mm length.
Goal is to create a channel for a 1.5mm diameter drill, so it does not have to remove as much material.
Be careful not to drill too deep as the drill chuck could touch the windings.
Use epoxy when putting the stator carrier back in the motor and insert a 10mm long 1.5mm dia piece of piano wire in the drilled hole.

Ok, removed the stator from the stator carrier, and ready to do the work.

As you stated, no anti-rotation pin in the stator carrier. I removed the stator from the stator carrier with my hands. I can't understand how these motors operate without the anti-rotation pin, and seems isn't an issue. The stator even didn't have any evidence of glue or retaining compound applied to it. It's disappointing to see the lack of quality inside the motor.

Thank you very much for the help guys.

[PlaneHazza]

Old thread, I know, but how do you actually disassemble this motor? I need to change the shaft on mine, and have taken the two grub screws out, but I can't separate the two can halves. I've seen this video for a scorpion motor, below, but there is no circlip on the align motors etc.

How to Change a Shaft in a Scorpion Motor by Innov8tive Designs (11 min 30 sec)

I've seen this method, but to me, heat and magnets are not things I'm keen to mix. I know the motors can get up to canny temperatures in flight, but not 200C!

https://www.bocabearings.com/rc-heli...-align-bl700mx

[flint723]

Same as the video except you can't take the stator out first. I've never used heat but motor magnets are generally rated for very high heat anyway. That video is ok but he makes it out to be a bigger deal than it needs to be.

Are your bearings already bad? Because pressing it out with the stator still installed will probably ruin the rear bearing.

I always bought Scorpion or Xnova shafts if I had to take apart an Align, so I didn't have to deal with the problem of pressing it in and out every time to disassemble.

[1BOHO]

If you dont want to scribe a keyway with a dremel which isnt that exacting but works you can simply clue the stator to the carrier like the factory had attempted with 609 loctite. It wont go anywhere.



I used it on my high current align because i did not want to scribe a keyway with a dremel. This is what its for. Painless.

[PlaneHazza]

Originally Posted by flint723

Same as the video except you can't take the stator out first. I've never used heat but motor magnets are generally rated for very high heat anyway. That video is ok but he makes it out to be a bigger deal than it needs to be.

Are your bearings already bad? Because pressing it out with the stator still installed will probably ruin the rear bearing.

I always bought Scorpion or Xnova shafts if I had to take apart an Align, so I didn't have to deal with the problem of pressing it in and out every time to disassemble.

It's the shaft I'm trying to replace, but yeah, I'll be doing the bearings at the same time.

I've just had the motor in the oven at 200C for 10 mins, and it's not budging. I was hoping it would be like a nitro engine where the bearings just fall out, but alas no. I've obviously taken out the two grub screws, but this motor is still solid... So much so that I fear trying to use an arbor press will damage the can.

[1BOHO]

I think that may be a little too hot. To drop em out a nitro engine about 220°F on the aluminum nitro engine block. If you are going to replace them and dont care about the bearings u can knock them out with a loose dowel.