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600/600 PRO Aftermarket Upgrades and Mods Align T-REX 600/600 PRO Aftermarket Upgrades and Mods Support


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Old 12-06-2009, 04:27 PM   #61 (permalink)
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A couple questions more,

Can you please provide photo/description on the way you follow to connect two batteries together and then to esc? what awg wires, what type of connectors, etc..

I have added 10awg silicon wire to list but not sure about connectors, their thickness..

Another issue is lipo monitoring. Is it a good idea to use 2 x lipo monitor6S ?

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Old 12-06-2009, 07:25 PM   #62 (permalink)
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This thread made me decide to have my future bird to run on 12s. Parts acquired at the moment are CC BEC Pro, CC 85HV, Scorpion 4025-630, Mikado 3012 and 8 packs of Flightmax 6s 40C. I will be purchasing the bird next month as my birthday present to myself. I will be running 610's on the cyclic and 620 on the rudder with a 401. Do you think the gyro could handle the bird? Im sport flier not a 3D nut. The price of the 520 is very tempting but Im thinking I want one of my bird to be flybarless as well and I need to save up first.
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Old 12-07-2009, 04:20 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontheway View Post
A couple questions more,

Can you please provide photo/description on the way you follow to connect two batteries together and then to esc? what awg wires, what type of connectors, etc..
Very straight forward, simply connect the black wire of one pack to the black negative of the esc, the red wire from the second pack to red positive of the esc and finally connect the packs together by the remain positive and negatives wires to complete the circuit.

If you look closely, you'll notice the packs are connected to the esc/e-logger but the remaining positive and negative connections between the packs are not connected.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ontheway View Post
I have added 10awg silicon wire to list but not sure about connectors, their thickness..
If you did not run an e-logger, I would image there would be enough length without any additional wire.

Due to the gage of the wire on Castle Creations ESC, I chose 5.5mm bullets from Hobby City, designed for high power systems.

Polymax 5.5mm Gold Connectors (10 pairs/set)


With an increased surface area over Deans or 4mm bullets, their should be a lower resistance between connections.

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Another issue is lipo monitoring. Is it a good idea to use 2 x lipo monitor6S ?
Always safer to fly by timer and monitor what you put back in.
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Last edited by rceccleston; 02-24-2010 at 03:09 PM..
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Old 12-07-2009, 04:25 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by chucky21022002 View Post
This thread made me decide to have my future bird to run on 12s. Parts acquired at the moment are CC BEC Pro, CC 85HV, Scorpion 4025-630, Mikado 3012 and 8 packs of Flightmax 6s 40C. I will be purchasing the bird next month as my birthday present to myself. I will be running 610's on the cyclic and 620 on the rudder with a 401. Do you think the gyro could handle the bird? Im sport flier not a 3D nut. The price of the 520 is very tempting but Im thinking I want one of my bird to be flybarless as well and I need to save up first.
While the 401 will be good to start with, it'll show it's age by not holding the tail too well in backward flight.
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Old 12-07-2009, 06:10 AM   #65 (permalink)
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As rceccleston said the 401 will hold but not the best. No matter, it will do what you want it to do for now. Electrics don't pound a gyro like a nitro does so it should be fine. Just remember to get a 3 axis flybarless system then you won't have to worry about upgrading your gyro.
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:17 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Thanks guys. I'll stick with my old and trusty 401 that came from my retired Belt-Cp. It will be a while for my skills to master backward flight. Im mastering tail-in inverted at the moment as I started inverted nose-in. Just in case I venture into backward flight, I will let my 450 do the beating (sacrificial lamb).
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:05 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Cable routing Information was crystal clear. Thank you. May be its my monitor, but cables were not quite visible in your photo. I have added (erm..) some brightness...

"pic deleted"
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:50 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Cable routing Information was crystal clear. Thank you. May be its my monitor, but cables were not quite visible in your photo. I have added (erm..) some brightness...
It's your monitor mate, my photo you modified looks very white washed.

If it a CRT monitor and your brightness is turned up, the tube is burning out.

Similarly, if its a TFT and your brightness is turned up, the backlight is burning out.
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Old 12-07-2009, 02:04 PM   #69 (permalink)
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May be its my monitor, but ...I have added some brightness.


If you don't see the different shade between every one of these squares, your monitor is way out of calibration. (Image borrowed from www.dpreview.com where image quality is constantly discussed.)
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Old 12-07-2009, 02:19 PM   #70 (permalink)
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If you don't see the different shade between every one of these squares, your monitor is way out of calibration. (Image borrowed from www.dpreview.com where image quality is constantly discussed.)
Fix applied. all visible now, was my fault.
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:15 PM   #71 (permalink)
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I've also decided to go with the 12's setup with a few extra mod's. I installed the full KDE upgrade as well as the Boca bearings and 6mm shaft for the HK4025. Still working on the wire routing and equipment placement (specifically the elogger and the CCHV85).

There's really not a lot you can mount on the KDE bottom plate, so I'm having to modify a mounting bracket for the HV85. I'd much rather have it mounted away from the other electronics if possible.

If anyone has some ideas about mounting the HV85 I'd like to see your results. I really don't like the side mounting myself.

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I can't believe my repair towel is still clean.......
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:33 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobkat View Post
I've also decided to go with the 12's setup with a few extra mod's. I installed the full KDE upgrade as well as the Boca bearings and 6mm shaft for the HK4025. Still working on the wire routing and equipment placement (specifically the elogger and the CCHV85).

There's really not a lot you can mount on the KDE bottom plate, so I'm having to modify a mounting bracket for the HV85. I'd much rather have it mounted away from the other electronics if possible.

If anyone has some ideas about mounting the HV85 I'd like to see your results. I really don't like the side mounting myself.

Attachment 127884Attachment 127886Attachment 127887

I can't believe my repair towel is still clean.......
Give this a shot......



https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=172601

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Old 12-07-2009, 07:43 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Thanks nightflyr, exactly what I'm looking for.......
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:48 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Thanks nightflyr, exactly what I'm looking for.......
the one draw back I see in doing this on your rig....ground clearance....if you have a hard landing and break your landing gear.

My suggestion if you use this type of mount, try to shield the ESC with a crash bar, or fab up a higher, tougher set of landing gear..





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Old 12-07-2009, 07:54 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Done it, running the spider gear setup. Although the crash bar is an interesting idea, hmmmm...
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:57 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobkat View Post
Done it, running the spider gear setup. Although the crash bar is an interesting idea, hmmmm...
That's the reason I made the suggestion..I've twisted spider landing gear up like a pretzel, reason i made my own.

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Old 12-07-2009, 08:57 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Oh..forgot to mention..I have my ET mounted underneath also...right behind the ESC tucked up inside the KDE

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Old 12-09-2009, 10:44 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Do you think metal head is a necessity for 12S applications? My old 600E's head and tail is plastic (along with fiberglass 600s). Also wondering what type/brand of rubber dumper you use..

Another issue is motor mount. Mine is plastic. Is this the correct replacement?

http://www.helidirect.com/align-moto...033-p-1556.hdx

Thinking on replacing bottom plate too, but KDE's is a bit on expensive side..Any other alternatives?
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:52 AM   #79 (permalink)
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My choice is all metal..but then again my birds weren't built on a budget...

I'm quite sure the budget build works fine.


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Old 12-09-2009, 11:13 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Do you think metal head is a necessity for 12S applications?My old 600E's head and tail is plastic (along with fiberglass 600s).
All depends upon your headspeed and how hard your going to push it.

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Also wondering what type/brand of rubber dumper you use..
Stock grey dampers.

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Originally Posted by ontheway View Post
Another issue is motor mount. Mine is plastic. Is this the correct replacement?
http://www.helidirect.com/align-moto...033-p-1556.hdx
Yes, looks right.

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Originally Posted by ontheway View Post
Thinking on replacing bottom plate too, but KDE's is a bit on expensive side..Any other alternatives?
Using the stock bottom plate, don't see any advantages of replacing it.
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