|Register||FAQ||PM||Events||Groups||Blogs||Calendar||Mark Forums Read|
|MSH Protos MSH Protos Helicopter Support Forum|
||Thread Tools||Display Modes|
|12-08-2009, 11:27 PM||#1|
My HF Map location
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Edson, Alberta, Canada
Flybarless Protos, share your files and your notes on your setups :)
For those who own a Protos, thinking of using Mikado Mini Stabi this is for you....
I have not had a ton of time on this, but I definetely got it feeling better then one on MSH site, IMHO of course, please feel free to comment on your thoughts.
As a disclaimer to all of you I will describe my setup, if you are running different servos, blades, etc expect "varied" results. However the basic file I will share will get 90% of the people to the races fast. I will include as much info as possible for those who are thinking of Mini Stabi to get theirs going as fast as possible. For those of you using either of these files it is up to "YOU" to ensure 100% that everything is working properly I take no responsibilty for you not doing so.
Here are some build notes and directions on channels with the Mini Stabi
Some things to note up front I found.
1.) If using a pack 400 grams or heavier you MUST put esc on the bottom shelf to get good COG, remember this heli like a Logo has an elevated rake, so skids are not determining of COG when checking, by doing this of course the Mini Stabi MUST be on the boom block, wires facing main shaft is certainly best.
2.) Wires for esc lead and tr gyro routed on sides of the boom block, opening is visible and stays away from the pullies.
3.) By sanding lightly the portion of boom where tr case and boom block contacts boom and using the conductive boom block by MSH I got continuity from motor mount all way to tr shaft, no wire or other mods. If you do not have the conductive tr boom block then advise to ground wire from boom to the side of one of the bolts that go through boom block, check for your continuity.
4.) Channels are as follows, looking from back of helicopter, nose forward, elevator front servo = channel 1 in mini, Ail left servo = ch3, ail right = ch2, rudder of course is rudder. Note in my sharing files the expo is set to linear, meaning if you decide to use these files use "YOUR" tx expos, my Aileron and Elevator expos are 25% and TR is 27% in my TX. If you choose to set expo in software, then remember to not have any in your TX please. Adjust to the feel "YOU" like. And speaking of "feel" you will note my stick response is aggressive, as that is what "I' like, you may prefer normal etc, it's all about the feeling you prefer to your style is all.
5.) Note on mini stabi your trims will be much more in subtrim then in normal vstabi, like 11-20 depending on pots in DX7, also your endpoints could end up being 110-120, in TX only ch 2, 4 are reversed, rest are all normal. Note* at middle stick look at throttle channel on exp tx calibration, you may need to subtrim that as well to get zero, think I had 17 or something. These are near the values you'll probably see for subtrim in your tx here... http://vstabi.de/wiki/index.php?titl...mit_Satelliten
6. ) I am 16.3mm out on stock 6 point futaba horn, setting these and finding one best to 90 is best done before mounting servos in the servo brick of the Protos, otherwise impossible. I tried 14mm and 16.3 is the one you want to use to get best cyclic and collective feel, note my cyclic ring and cyclic gain, you do not want to adjust these on the model as outside of those paramters gives wierd feeling due to Protos geometry, use your cyclic agility etc on main page for faster and feel.
7.) On tail I used stock tr ball distance, this works well it seems.
8.) Details of gear I am using, please note these files based on "THIS" equipment that I list!
I am using 9650 on cyclic, and BLS 251 on tail. Scorpion 880kv motor, stock 15T pinion, and 75% on Jazz 80-6-18, heatplate side upwards remember.
I suggest when you do bind process to use a rx battery and not your main battery as sometimes you may see a spool up you are not ready for, remember once you have all your TX calibrated to zero on sticks, all your endpoints done etc, remember you MUST rebind again so the mini knows your centers or it will piro unlevel and wierd like. I suggest also on your tail to set about 3-4 degrees of bite while in setup mode as that seems to be the centering find.
Also to add to this, do ensure on setup page to do your fine top and bottom collective trim as well, as this geometry kicks outs abit and could give funny tic tocs, so on your setup with a swash level tool ensure you are dead level, bottom full negative, middle and top.
Files are: Basic is toned down abit for a start for people using different servos, blades etc and will need to be tuned up for your liking with your "other" gear. Advanced is using same equipment as I am using at the distances and config mentioned here and for people who already deal with vbar stuff and know what they are doing from the get go. Users may reference either, differences are small but yet effective for more experienced pilots.
Hope this helps to jump start a few peeps looking at going FBL with mini on their Protos, cheers.
Thx to Mr.Mel for some advisement on some tunings as well.
...Once upon a time there were Nitros, flybars & frequency pins...Shawn
Western Robotics RC,
Youth Generation Electronics
Last edited by OICU812; 12-09-2009 at 09:22 PM.. Reason: sticky