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Old 03-09-2010, 07:52 PM   #21 (permalink)
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The curves on your TX are only used in none governor mode arenít they?
When you flick the governor on your throttle curves are disregarded and the governor takes over, the main thing you need to check when setting up a governor is the idle and full throttle positions plus the required rpm, I havenít used the Align governor on a gasser but it has and is used successfully on other forums.
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:13 PM   #22 (permalink)
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It is recommended to still have throttle curves set in the radio, if only for the event of a Governor failure....

It is also recommended to tune the engine sans governor, to ensure proper tuning at ALL RPMS...
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:42 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbergen View Post
It is recommended to still have throttle curves set in the radio, if only for the event of a Governor failure....

It is also recommended to tune the engine sans governor, to ensure proper tuning at ALL RPMS...
Good point, I always follow that advice before installing and using a governor.
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:11 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Your all singing to the choir here. Just still waiting for someone who has actually gotten it to work to chime in. I do still have a bird flying with one so I know how they work and how to properly set them up. Maybe it went bad. Before I totally give up I am going to pull the one off my 600 just to rule out a horribly inconvenient coincidental failure.

It's just very frustrating. This governor could literally be in a geico caveman commercial. It seems really stupid to me that it doesn't just work...as I believe all of you are thinking as well. But it doesn't.
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:13 PM   #25 (permalink)
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In regards to the Malorie setup and the governor, the reason it works is that your setting up a Mechanical Expo in the throttle linkage vs an electronic radio setup, which then helps the governor prevent overspeeding by giving better resolution in the operating area of the butterfly opening.
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:52 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Well I just pulled the governor off my 600, sensor and gov unit itself, and tried it with the exact same results. I have a GV-1 coming in the mail today. I have been doing a lot of reading and even posted a question asking about the differences in the GV1 and other governors and I sure hope I am not too disappointed. Seems lots of people have mixed opinions of the "old" gv-1. I am thinking that this being a gasser, any little limitations probably won't be an issue.
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:33 AM   #27 (permalink)
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GV1 Works!

Tried the MultiGov pro and it was a total nightmare. It did pretty much the same thing as the align but in varying degress as I changed advanced settings. It and the LCD are currently up for sale in the RR classifieds. Used it for a couple hours. Didn't use any of the supplied sensors and mounting hardware. It is about as close to new as it gets. Anyone interested can save themselves 20 bucks.

Hooked up the GV1 and bam, worked like a charm. Guess I will finally get to start throwing this thing around and I look forward to getting some vidoes shot.
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Old 03-18-2010, 05:22 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Did the GV1 sensor just mount in place of the Align one, or did you use a Stator Gator?

Tried my Align governor today and when you switched it on the engine just cut!
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Old 03-18-2010, 06:17 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I hate it didn't work for you, but it's good to know I wasn't losing my mind.

Yes, the GV1 sensor fits right where the align sensor goes but I had to use some washers to make it hang out a little further over the bell. Flush against the frame didn't give me but 26% signal. I would say I had to extend toward the bell about 3-4mm. I used some old frame washers I had from a hdx500. It was the exact thickness of those. Doing that got me 97% signal, which from what I can tell, is the max.

I just came in from flying and it is just amazing. The GV1 is absolutely perfect. I have the slightest over speeding in certain situations, but I haven't even bothered trying to tinker with it to get it out. There are settings what will cure it, but it is so slight, I might just not even worry about it.

All that crap about the GV1 being old and heavy and big...phewy on that. For a gasser, it's perfect. I mean, you even have to go into the advanced menu and slow it down to even make it work, so I doesn't matter how slow it is..it's still comes out of the box too fast.

Oh, and obviously don't go wasting money on a stator gator. And I don't know if it makes any difference, because I didn't try it without, but I also wrapped the sensor wires around and through a ferrit. I had one left over from a burnt up trex 500 esc.

Anyway, just PM or message me if you need any assistance whatsoever. I messed around with governors for days before finally getting it settled.
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Old 03-18-2010, 06:42 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Here are some final photos.

This is how I did my plumbing. I went from outside tank hole to the carb. Then from the carb overflow to a T and then to the middle tank hole. The T allows me to quickly refuel and I used some hayes fuel line so I could use a left over align clamp. That clamp wouldn't make a complete seal on tygon.



I looped the overflow down and around the back support behind the fuel tank and then ran it out on the supports. So far I have not had any leaks or issues. This works for me. I also needed a fuel filter on the inside of the tank and I needed to to be like a fuel magnet. After searching around, I was able to locate this at my local advance auto parts store and it has worked flawlessly for 2 gallons.

It is a MaxPower 1/8" Fuel Filter for small engines. A $3 fuel magnet, and you can't beat that!

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ci_sku=6180059



I installed a spektrum lipo monitor and a switch to turn it off/on. I made use of the existing slit in the frame for that switch. Please note those silver washer things I used to secure the switch. Those are the exact washers I used on the GV1 sensor on the inside of the frame to extend it out a little further over the bell/magnets.




I mounted the GV1 right up top. Some argue this is not a good location, but it works for me and has had no bad affects. Plus, as you can see, the wires are short and they all manage to fit perfectly.



I went with some Radix Cosmetic Flaw 710's just to see how they work. I figured having more weight might benefit from having a little more blade. I am going to switch back to the 690's after I get used to the 710's so I can make a good comparison. You will also notice I don't sport the fin up top on the tail boom. I think they look ridiculous and don't use them unless I have too.



I was beginning to notice the skids tweaking a little when I picked the heli up. I noticed this even when this was a nitro. I decided to do something about it and drilled some holes down into the skid pipes and went with some heavy duty M3 screws. They are 100% solid now.



Here is the ferrit I used to help shield the sensor wire.



And finally, here is where I mounted the GV1 sensor. I used the holes I made for the align sensor. I did have to dremel the holes up about 1mm to give the sensor a little more clearance off the bell. I am going to cut those screws down eventually. You will notice I used some fairly long screws. Since you have to install the sensor with the bell installed, you need some long screws to help you navigate the sensor around in the frame and hit the holes. I chose to go with nuts with lock washers on the outside. Trying to get nuts on the inside was impossible. The order would be, Sensor, silver washers to frame to lock washer to nut. Works perfectly.



I have also used the Align MOD1 main gear and have to say it works well. I don't haven't really banged on it too hard but when I did have it installed, it sounded good and ran smooth. It actually has a better mesh than the MicroHeli gear and probably won't strip. This is just my opinion with what little time I put on one.
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:05 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I have the GV1 on my Spectra and it's so easy to set up, how the Spanish guys have their Align one set up I don't know, maybe they think it's working but it isn't!

Tonight I sorted the tank leak from the Align blanking plug, now need to sort canopy mounting as it's rubbing the main gear.
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:11 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Funny you say that, I had to put a couple of washers in behind my rear canopy mounts as well. I was noticing some wear around the top of my gear which red flagged it for me.

I also took the dremel to my canopy to accomodate the choke lever. When not choked, the lever was pushing against the canopy which was also causing rubbing on the gear.
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:17 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Is that Spartan behaving on the gasser? It would help me free up some room as I have the GY611 on there...
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:30 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Yes, I only had one issue and it was my fault. I had the wires pulled too tight and some vibes were running up and causing me to have a constant drift. I redid the wiring and it's been rock solid since. I am a big Spartan fan.
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Old 03-20-2010, 05:21 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Tried the Align Governor again today, set it up as per somebody else that was using it and it made no difference. Flick the governor on and it seems to rev and die, which is similar to what others have experienced...

All indications on the bench indicate that it works, but in practise it doesn't...

I wonder if it really works or some have just got it to work but it isn't doing the job properly? I listened to one of the videos and Raja watched it as well and the motor is just bogging all the time.

Other than that everything is good, I know you have the Hanson motor Rototerrier but where are you on the needles, I seem to be a lot less than I am on the PUH motors, about 1.25 turns, richer and it won't turn over until about 30% throttle. Also have you shot any temperatures on the head, does anyone know what temps you should be seeing?
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Old 03-20-2010, 08:48 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Personally, I don't think it works. I think a chimp can set up an align governor, so it either works or it doesn't and my vote says it doesn't.

I am still chasing my needles down. Today I wound up staying around 1 3/8 on the low. The thing just won't smooth out. I think I will run these 2 gallons on out and will try Spectro from my local MX shop.

I shot some temps and I got a couple 200 when hovering and when I brought it down a couple times after some really hard flying I read only 180. It is really hard to tell because it cools off so quickly. I don't really know how much temp it's shaving off by the time I get the blades stopped and shoot the head.

Al says my engine can come in at 200-240. I don't think I am getting anywhere near 240 so I am not really too concerned. Like with nitros, I have been able to notice when the power drops off on both the rich and lean sides so I am just doing my best to get right in the middle.

This oil thing is kicking my butt. I went up to 5oz / gallon and I can't tell any difference from 3.2. It runs exactly the same.

Worse case scenerio, I will go back to running the Husky oil from Lowes since it was running so well on it. I have run the snot out of my chainsaw the past couple of years and it's still running strong on the stuff.
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Old 03-20-2010, 09:55 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Stick with it and give it more time to break-in, mine took 4 gallons + before it would respond properly to the needle changes.
If you pull the muffler and shine a light in the port you will see if the barrel is smooth or if it still shows some machine marks, smooth is bedded in and the marks mean you still have some running-in to do
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Old 03-21-2010, 04:53 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Have to agree there, with my others gasser exploits it has been a good 5 gallons before everything opens up and runs consistently...

We all vary on carb setting but 1 3/8 sounds a bit rich, I can't even fire mine up at that until about 30% throttle

Even though I have put a gallon through now the plug doesn't seem to be telling me much, its just a light oily colour and on the wet side...
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Old 03-21-2010, 07:54 AM   #39 (permalink)
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I thought the needles were rich as well, but if I go much less and it starves for fuel as you try to spool up. 1 1/4 is right there on the edge so I backed it off just a smidge to get at 1 3/8. I was thinking the pipe might have something to do with it.

Are you guys getting a lot of vibes up through the fuel tank?
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Old 03-21-2010, 08:00 AM   #40 (permalink)
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YES! I have a mini Tsunami in my tank!!!!

When you say it starves of fuel when running it up when the needles are low, does the head race as in lean?
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