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Old 01-14-2011, 12:33 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Carbon Fiber Frame - Build

Ever since the Logo 500/600 came out a few years back some people have asked for a CF version of the frame. Late last week Mikado released their answer to that in the form of a full CF frame conversion kit. This conversion is designed to convert your existing Logo 500/600 from the plastic frame (love it or hate it) over to a more traditional style CF frameset (love it or hate it).

In this thread i'll document the build in pictures as well as post any comments or observations I had along the way. If you have any questions i'll try to answer them as best as I can along the way.

I was going to start off with a what's in the box portion but there is little need for that since Electric Sheep already did a great job on that in his thread here. Posting the pics I took would pretty much look exactly the same and quite frankly be repetitive.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=270129


So here we go.......


Fresh out of the box and looking far better in person than any pics really capture. As you can see the frame comes mostly assembled. The CF has a very glossy clear coat carbon fiber sides along with a healty dose of black powder coated or anodized (not sure of the process) aluminum bearing blocks and frame supports. Many of the parts have a very nice machined bevel on them which exposes the underlying aluminum. A very nice touch which the blingsters will surely appreciate



So why did it come pre-assembled? I can't say for sure but you can argue that the best way to learn how to build something is to have to take it apart first.

Installed into the frame you will find a 25mm motor mount. If you've got one of the big gun motors a 30mm motor mount is also included. Also installed into the frame is a set of 25mm boom clamps which will accept Logo 600/600SE booms. If you want to convert a 500/500SE you will need to get a set of the 20mm boom clamps (MIK4404).
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Old 01-14-2011, 12:51 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Of course the first thing I wanted to do was compare side by side to the plastic frame sets.



One of the first things that is obvious is the much larger battery tray. There is a lot of room in the CF frame. For the guys running packs like the Turnigy 6S 5000mah packs that means no more having to widen the front opening.




As you can see in this photo the servos are mounted up higher on the CF version. This will no doubt require some linkage adjustment later on.




And of course the weight difference between the two frames. Basically it works out to about 220 grams or half a pound.



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Old 01-14-2011, 01:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Mikado provides a brief yet adequate set of instructions if you want to do the minimal amount of disassembly for the conversion.



IMPORTANT: Whether you choose to do a partial or full disassembly it is VERY important to add loctite to any screw going into metal. In the case of the CF frame that is pretty much every screw.

I have chosen to completely disassemble mine. I wanted to do this to check if screws were being secured with loctite from the factory (they were), as well as to see how it all goes together. My other thought was this may be a preview for how some aspects of the 700 are being designed.......plus it's winter and it's been raining ALOT . Here's what it looks like all apart. As I took each piece out I re-inserted the screws back into their corresponding holes. This helped me to keep track of where the various size screws went when it was time to assemble everything. Notice the bottle of loctite in the upper left corner .



The flip side of the instruction sheet shows each of their parts and corresponding part numbers as well.

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Old 01-14-2011, 02:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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More to come tomorrow.........

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Old 01-14-2011, 07:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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the photos aren't showing up for me....
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:03 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Interesting, they displayed fine last night. It may be a little bit before I can sort it out since i'm at work. Probably need to move the pics to a different server. Sorry about that.
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:38 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Nice job Fil, those pics are working for me, those frames are sexy I'm going to have to get a set. Thanks for the post.
Jeff
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Old 01-14-2011, 12:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Old 01-14-2011, 12:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Now I would like to have one! But the price..
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Old 01-14-2011, 01:32 PM   #10 (permalink)
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i really want that frame badly fil. Ok guys just to some this up for me. My logo is a 5003d 553blades. I am now running 2300hs maybe gonna go to 2330 at +-14 pitch(thanks guys for the geometery help). I use my 4000mah 40c packs side by side, this means i had to dremel the crap outa my frame to fit them(62.90mm) this is the main reason i want the new frame,and of course its beautifull. As fil said its 220g? Extra. Wil this be a totaal over kill for my heli? Bare in mind i use an 8s setup witch has a bit more bite than 6s. Any help would be sweet. I don,t want a tank but want the new frame, love my setup want to keep that. I like my 553edge blades, really don,t want an se. Did that already.
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Old 01-14-2011, 01:59 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Moving on to the frame assembly you will need to start assembling all of the various center blocks to one side of the CF frame side. I decided to start with the upper bearing/servo block then work my way down. It's important to note the orientation of the main bearings for these supports before assembly. The top block has the open end of the bearing cavity facing up, while the middle bearing support should have the open end facing towards the ground. You will also install the anti-rotation guide into the top bearing block.






Next is the idler pulley portion. The idlers from your old frame are needed for this step. The idler pins rest inside the holes and are sandwiched in between the two idler supports. You can then install them into the frame side with the supplied hardware.








Moving on down the line is the two boom blocks. You'll also want to make sure that the lock washer is present on the set screw. There is a hole on either side frame to access this set screw. Whether the screw faces left or right doesn't matter, but you'll want to orient it facing up. If not then you won't be able to get to the screw later on when you install the boom.








Next I moved onto the motor mount. What i didn't capture in the picture is that you will need one of the front frame supports to run the front motor mount screw through. Also don't forget to choose the right size motor mount for your application. In my case i'm installing the 30mm motor mount. One thing you'll notice is that the motor mount is HUGE. It's basically a giant heatsink for your motor and should help with some of the hotter running motors on the market.

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Old 01-14-2011, 02:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hawkins221,

The front battery opening of an unmodified plastic frame is 52mm compared to the CF frame which is 66mm. That's quite a difference so you should have zero issue with your packs fitting.

Whether or not the extra weight will be acceptable on your 500 is purely subjective. The stock framed Logo 500 is usually close to 220 grams less than something like the Outrage 550. Even with the extra weight the O550 still flys well and many people are happy with them. What I would suggest is to find a way to securely add that much weight to your bird and go fly it. This should give you a good idea on whether or not the extra weight of the CF frame is something that would be acceptable to you.
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Old 01-14-2011, 02:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Which means you have lot's of space even the biggest motor and for big packs. Great, now just add a beefy head and a TT and you have a real 90.
And great you made those photos
-klaus
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Old 01-14-2011, 03:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks Klaus. Yup, no problem at all even for the big 50 series Scorpion motors. Won't need a shoe horn like you do with the plastic frames.
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Old 01-14-2011, 03:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Hey Fil,

Thanks for this thread! I'll wait to see what you've done with the c-clip at the end of the main shaft. I tried with a c-clip and it seemed like it didn't belong there (seemed like a lot of pressure on the third bearing block because it was bowing a little.) Then I just put a 0.5mm shim at the end of the main shaft and now it seems to fit perfectly. No vertical play at all. Not sure if that's the right thing to do though. Let us know when you get there!

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Originally Posted by helirose View Post
Now I would like to have one! But the price..
Ya, $349 seems a bit steep especially when compared to the plastic frames... But if you look at upgrades on other helis, this price is in line. For example, a KDE Direct Upgrade Kit for a 700E is $366, and that's just for the aluminum parts! Granted, they include a rotor head housing, but if I had both helis and had to choose one upgrade, I'd take the one from Mikado.

Anyway, looking forward to the rest of Big Fil's updates.
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Old 01-14-2011, 03:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Down on the bottom end of the frame you have your two front landing gear mounts. The front one is attached with hardware through the front frame support while the second one is attached straight to the CF frame.




In this lower right of this picture you can see the rear landing gear/gyro mount. The gyro mount has the proper angle machined in it so that a full sized vbar sensor will be properly aligned and perpendicular to the mainshaft. Also in this picture I have added the lower bearing block.



At this point I thought it'd be a good to fit up the drive train. The only pieces of the frame not shown in this shot are the cf battery tray, upper rx tray, and the cross support which sits just aft of the motor.



In the photo above you can also see the silver colored collar which is a new addition. This takes up the additional space between the middle bearing and the main drive pulley.
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Old 01-14-2011, 03:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Intermission time..........more coming later this afternoon. Cue tease shot

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Old 01-14-2011, 04:41 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Hawt!
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:19 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Thank you for doing a CF Frame build and the time you're putting off sharing this!

Maybe will upgrade one of my Logo's later in the summer
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Old 01-14-2011, 11:44 PM   #20 (permalink)
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My hats off to you Fil. Nice thread, great pictures and comment.

I'll tell ya, when the frames first got announced and pictures started showing-up, I said, "No way I'm gettin' those "bling frames" (as I called them). The plastic frames are bomb as they are. Light, strong, functional and cheap".

But now, seeing the real deal from the inside out...I don't know...I think I want one for the "SE"
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