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600 PRO Class Electric Helicopters 600 PRO Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 06-23-2011, 11:21 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default My new Pro will be here Monday..anything I need to know?

Any tips of tricks that makes things easier or fly better that I need to know about?

Thanks.
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Use manual link lengths as a rough guide only...
Watch the A arm assembly, shim the shaft first then set A arm spacer to make it straight with the shaft.
Get the swash level with A arm set in an angle that will give you the pitch range you want.
You can lock it up or over-extend it it you set it wrong.
After that do front servos.

I ended up using B holes (manual says A) so I dont bind at extreme.
This setup gives you 16° pitch and 14° cyclic. If you dont need that much go stock setup

Check for play in tail shaft, use 0.1mm shim to eliminate if excessive (some are better, some need more)

Watch for locktite getting into that tail arm fork brass bushings (it will be sucked to the screw cap by capillary suction if you overdo it).
If it gets there it will lock the bush to the screw and instead of rotating against screw it will rotate in plastic fork, making the tail sticky.... or just get KDE upgrade.

Dont know why Align still uses bushings there.

Others can chime in...
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If you are building an FBL version - I would advise against using the outer holes recommended by wespen as you risk a much lower resolution with your FBL system. This is common with all FBL systems.
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Old 06-25-2011, 08:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotaryguy View Post
If you are building an FBL version - I would advise against using the outer holes recommended by wespen as you risk a much lower resolution with your FBL system. This is common with all FBL systems.
+ 1
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Old 06-28-2011, 08:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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yes know this there NO PARTS FOR THE 600E PRO. so don't break anything.
Bill
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wperry38 View Post
yes know this there NO PARTS FOR THE 600E PRO. so don't break anything.
Bill

So far so good
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Old 06-28-2011, 01:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wperry38 View Post
yes know this there NO PARTS FOR THE 600E PRO. so don't break anything.
Bill
Grandrc - and some are 550/600 parts also.
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:57 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yah, GrandRC is local, and had all the parts to repair my destroyed 600p. Plus if it's not on the site, he can likely pull it from a kit for you.
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Old 06-28-2011, 05:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Make sure you install the lower main bearing correctly. If the end play is marked it's upside down. The 0.5mm spacer was perfect. No end play but not binding. Instuctions don't mention this.
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Old 06-28-2011, 10:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erdocdan View Post
Make sure you install the lower main bearing correctly. If the end play is marked it's upside down. The 0.5mm spacer was perfect. No end play but not binding. Instuctions don't mention this.
On my kit the .5mm was tight with binding, the .3mm was perfect.
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Old 07-16-2011, 06:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Hi folks,
Quote:
Originally Posted by wespen View Post
Check for play in tail shaft, use 0.1mm shim to eliminate if excessive (some are better, some need more)
Yes - my tail case has some slop - but question is ..did the suggested 0.1 shim? come in the kit or did you pull it outta spares \ another heli ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wespen View Post
Watch for locktite getting into that tail arm fork brass bushings (it will be sucked to the screw cap by capillary suction if you overdo it).
If it gets there it will lock the bush to the screw and instead of rotating against screw it will rotate in plastic fork, making the tail sticky.... or just get KDE upgrade..
Mine came like this from align, loctite @#$#$ where. Nearly impossible to separate that tiny screw (with tiny screw head) and bushing now that they are fused. going to try and heat it ,, but concerned will damage the bushing and or really weaken either the screw or bush,

2ndly,
The tail blade pitch "slider" is literally grinding along the tail shaft. I cannot see anything wrong with the tailshaft so must be the bearings \ collars inside the slider?

Pull the slider off the shaft and yep - turning the sleeve in my fingers I can feel it grinding on high spots or something as it rotates. I see in the manual you are supposed to loctite the "sleeve" to the inner part of the "slider". I think align just threw it all in a bucket of loctite and waited until it hardened in the bearings ... cause no matter what I do - I CANNOT separate these slider pieces. (2 x bearings, slider outer case, inner sleeve etc).

Has anyone seen this in their kits? Do you know what caused it?
Anyone got tips on fixing it or know whats going on ?
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Old 07-16-2011, 09:37 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Posted in wrong thread.
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Old 07-16-2011, 03:46 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I used Tamiya RC car / buggy shim set...its like 5$ or so.
There was a link here on forum.

And bought KDE V2 tail upgrade, so I dont fiddle with stock bushings...
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Old 07-16-2011, 09:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wperry38 View Post
yes know this there NO PARTS FOR THE 600E PRO. so don't break anything.
Bill
What?!!! No parts for the 600E Pro? Mine's coming in about a week. Sigh. Okay, we'll it's not like there's an abundance of parts for my Walkera V500D01.
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Old 07-17-2011, 05:36 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OzDruiD View Post
Hi folks,


2ndly,
The tail blade pitch "slider" is literally grinding along the tail shaft. I cannot see anything wrong with the tailshaft so must be the bearings \ collars inside the slider?

Pull the slider off the shaft and yep - turning the sleeve in my fingers I can feel it grinding on high spots or something as it rotates. I see in the manual you are supposed to loctite the "sleeve" to the inner part of the "slider". I think align just threw it all in a bucket of loctite and waited until it hardened in the bearings ... cause no matter what I do - I CANNOT separate these slider pieces. (2 x bearings, slider outer case, inner sleeve etc).

Has anyone seen this in their kits? Do you know what caused it?
Anyone got tips on fixing it or know whats going on ?
Check the control links. Mine were binding. Get a 3mm drill bit and lightly ream the t type arm end by hand until it moves freely around the collar.
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Old 07-17-2011, 05:40 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Not sure what you mean by control arm links?
1. Brass bushing with screw in plastic arm - yes full of loctite, easy nuff fix. (if plastic is still tight, then yes, ream ever so slightly)

2. The main issue I have is with the very center hub part of the slider, even after fully disassembled from the "Y" framework that joins the blade grips etc. The 2 bearings in the silver collar that (has some writing stamped on it also with has the ball link) are stuffed or full of loctite.
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