Vibration or shakes? CHECK THIS!

[CX2Pilot]

Originally Posted by upa123

Hi guys,

One of my servos has developed a jitter/shake as well, I tried to clean the silver stripe with alcohol but it didn't help. Before I get the conductive material other people shared in the thread, I want to make sure the symptom is similar to what other people are seeing, and not something else.

Thanks!

It starts at 0:04:

That looks like the jitter/shake from dirty servo contacts.
Make sure you clean all the contacts. The black carbon strip, silver strip,
and the fingers. Alcohol works fine. It just won't last too long before the strips
oxidize again. The DeoxIT has a lubricant/protective coating which from all
the posts I have seen keeps the servos working a long time before
they need to be cleaned again.
I would take apart the servo (s) again and clean the black carbon strip, silver strip,
and the fingers and see if that fixed the problem. If it did then you can order
and use the DeoxIT. If not you have another problem.



Tom

[trickybit]

Is it the case that you can see the servo dirt problem when stationary (unplug the motor?) but the slop jitters appear only in flight?

[CX2Pilot]

My slop jitters appeared in flight or sitting on the ground with no throttle armed and ready to fly.


Tom

[CX2Pilot]

Originally Posted by upa123

Hi guys,

One of my servos has developed a jitter/shake as well, I tried to clean the silver stripe with alcohol but it didn't help. Before I get the conductive material other people shared in the thread, I want to make sure the symptom is similar to what other people are seeing, and not something else.

Thanks!

It starts at 0:04:

Check this also. I forgot to add this to my reply to your post.
I am Tom Z on RcGroups.


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...53&postcount=4


Tom

[upa123]

Originally Posted by CX2Pilot

Check this also. I forgot to add this to my reply to your post.
I am Tom Z on RcGroups.


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...53&postcount=4


Tom

Thanks Tom.

I opened it up again, and this time purposely realign and push up the brushes to make sure they maintain good contact. The brush at one end got damaged somehow, so I cut that one off at the end, but made sure the remaining one "pops up" at a good angle. Once I put everything back, it seems to work okay now. At least with a quick 3 minutes flight, it didn't exhibit the same symptom again.

Thanks again!

[CX2Pilot]

Your welcome. Glad I could help out.
I thought it was the problem if the cleaning the conductive strips and fingers didn't work.
Sounds like its working OK now.
If it gives you a problem again you can always buy the Replacement Servo Mechanics which has
the fingers (wiper arm).
This way you don't have to buy the entire servo.


http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SPM6833



Tom

[rob214]

hi guys
the deoxIT did the trick for me on the jittery servo's. i'm still going to get the fader stuff but the 2 pack of deox and gold really helped so far.
thanks guys
rob

[AndyM001]

Originally Posted by CX2Pilot

That looks like the jitter/shake from dirty servo contacts.
Make sure you clean all the contacts. The black carbon strip, silver strip,
and the fingers. Alcohol works fine. It just won't last too long before the strips
oxidize again. The DeoxIT has a lubricant/protective coating which from all
the posts I have seen keeps the servos working a long time before
they need to be cleaned again.
I would take apart the servo (s) again and clean the black carbon strip, silver strip,
and the fingers and see if that fixed the problem. If it did then you can order
and use the DeoxIT. If not you have another problem.



Tom

Do you think this would be a suitable alternative?

Servisol Super 10

SUPER 10 is a highly efficient switch and contact cleaner. It offers a combination of high purity electrical cleaning and mechanical lubrications for contacts, switches and relays.

APPLICATIONS
Removes grease, tarnish, oxidisation and other contamination from contact surfaces and leaves a protective conductive lubricating film.
Cuts voltage drop between contacts by increasing the surface area and reducing resistance. The residual film resists drying and the attraction of dust. Eliminates contact bounce and stops the damage which can be caused by arcing between contacts. Improves the current flow and protects against friction.
Apply directly onto the components to be treated. Do not use on live electrical equipment. After spraying, always leave for at least 4/5 minutes to allow dispersal of solvent vapours, before operating the equipment.

[CX2Pilot]

Don't know the answer to that. I would like it better if it said it was also for potentiometers.
DeoxIT FaderLube F5 is made for these. NanoHeli (listed on there web site), myself, and others use F5
with great results.

Some people are using other products including DeoxIT D & G and are not having
problems (so far).
The carbon conductive strip is what you need to be careful what cleaner/lubricant you use on it so
it doesn't damage it.


Tom

[AndyM001]

Originally Posted by CX2Pilot

Don't know the answer to that. I would like it better if it said it was also for potentiometers.
DeoxIT FaderLube F5 is made for these. NanoHeli (listed on there web site), myself, and others use F5
with great results.

Some people are using other products including DeoxIT D & G and are not having
problems (so far).
The carbon conductive strip is what you need to be careful what cleaner/lubricant you use on it so
it doesn't damage it.


Tom

OK, thanks.

[redbird300]

Cleaning the servos was like a miracle for my little bird ! Jittering all over the place, cleaned all the servos, the q-tips were black as can be afterwards (waited way too long), and it flies perfect now.

In short:

1) Thanks a whole lot ChrisH !

2) I used this product, it's guaranteed to be very good for this application, and I'm saying this from my own experience, and 30 years of being a passionate electronics hobbyist:
http://nl.farnell.com/kontakt-chemie...00ml/dp/800958

Sorry it's partially in Dutch, but here's the English datasheet (you can also download it from the first link):
http://www.dact.com/Tuner_600_data_sheet.pdf

[davehour]

Hi guys:

RadioShack has a tuner/control cleaner and lubricant that will work very well to clean the mCPx servo carbon strips:

Cat. # 64-4315

A tuner/control cleaner and lubricant that restores performance by cleaning dirty contacts in TV tuners, volume or tone controls and switches. Ideal for all types of home and automotive electronics.

Thanks.

David

[CX2Pilot]

I saw that when I was at Radio Shack getting some DeoxIT.
That sounds like it will work well for the mCPX servo contact strips/fingers.
It is a little cheaper than DeoxIT F5 spray and there are radio shack stores almost
everywhere.


Tom

[69maverick]

Deoxit works great spray it with the G5 first just a little then the other lube ang blow it off with caned air and go fly it after a flight or 2 it will be fine. Also check your feathering shaft just a small bend will cause haveck

[eLvis955]

I just got one yesterday, and it shakes bad when spooled up thru 40-60% throttle range. Under 40% has no real vibration. Over 60% it smoothes out real nice. Main rotor blades harmonic balance hysteresis issue maybe? Idk...

[RedOctobyr]

If you are using the blades with the "bullets" on them, look underneath each bullet, to make sure the weight is still in there. It's possible you lost a weight.

I would also strongly suggest doing the grommet mod. There are a lot of threads about it here. You take the spare canopy grommets, and slip 1 over each swashplate ball, then put the servo link back on. It helps take up the slop at the ball. For the rear servo link (the elevator), slice the grommet down the middle, to make it only half the thickness. Slip the reduced-thickness grommet over the rear ball, and re-install that link. This has helped really reduce the vibration for a lot of people.

[DudeInMyrtleBeach]

Moved to another thread..

[eLvis955]

Originally Posted by RedOctobyr

If you are using the blades with the "bullets" on them, look underneath each bullet, to make sure the weight is still in there. It's possible you lost a weight.

I would also strongly suggest doing the grommet mod. There are a lot of threads about it here. You take the spare canopy grommets, and slip 1 over each swashplate ball, then put the servo link back on. It helps take up the slop at the ball. For the rear servo link (the elevator), slice the grommet down the middle, to make it only half the thickness. Slip the reduced-thickness grommet over the rear ball, and re-install that link. This has helped really reduce the vibration for a lot of people.

That did the trick, thank's RedOctobyr ! No bullet blades. The 1 you slice and use on the rear servo is tricky to install. I stuck it on the edge of a small piece of scotch tape and press/started it on with a small screwdriver. I did see that mod post earlier in my travels here on HF, but wasn't sure if it applied to me because this was a "right out of the box" issue...
Oh, after 6 crashes into the walls (still working on the trim out in a small house), it started again, but that was quickly diagnosed as a lose main shaft. The Main Gear had developed some gap from its proper seating. I pushed it back in for zero play and was good to go again!

[brianp6621]

Originally Posted by eLvis955

That did the trick, that's RedOctobyr ! No bullet blades. The 1 you slice and use on the rear servo is tricky to install. I stuck it on the edge of a small piece of scotch tape and press/started it on with a small screwdriver. I did see that mod post earlier in my travels here on HF, but wasn't sure if it applied to me because this was a "right out of the box" issue...
Oh, after 6 crashes into the walls (still working on the trim out in a small house), it started again, but that was quickly diagnosed as a lose main shaft. The Main Gear had developed some gap from its proper seating. I pushed it back in for zero play and was good to go again!

Just FYI, you shouldn't trim anything except pitch (to hit 0 pitch exactly at mid-stick) on this heli due to the FBL system.

[eLvis955]

Originally Posted by brianp6621

Just FYI, you shouldn't trim anything except pitch (to hit 0 pitch exactly at mid-stick) on this heli due to the FBL system.

Do you mean 3d mid stick? No,no, I'm only 4 months into this. Still flying "normal" mode, learning more every day!