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Old 05-23-2007, 10:09 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jul 2006
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Default Blade pics (lights)

Here is my blade CX with some after market parts
Attached Images
File Type: jpg blade_front_lights.jpg (72.8 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg blade_side_lights.jpg (66.8 KB, 119 views)
File Type: jpg blade_upgrades.jpg (118.0 KB, 103 views)
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Old 05-29-2007, 05:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Cool! How did you connect the LEDS to the heli?

Did you increase the distance between the rotors?

Thanks
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:46 AM   #3 (permalink)
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i did put the extra long inner and outer shaft. MAkes a MAJOR difference, especially in tight turns. For the lights, all it is is front strong blue leds attacked to a 3V lithium watch batterie, and the back normal red light is attached to another batt.
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Old 05-29-2007, 06:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ok, some extra batteries for the light. That's maybe more reasonable than messing around with the LIPO power which I respect and rather don't play around with.

What light weight batteries did you use? Did you connenct the two front LEDs in series?

And the outer and inner shafts: I'd like to mount them too. Problem is that I am unemployed right now and have to save pennies. This is not going to last forever.

At least I could afford some fluorescent orange color and I painted the ends of the rotor blades with it. This was great fun. (You have to paint them white before)

The next thing I want to add is the aluminium swash plate. It seems to change the heli's behavior significantly.

Thanks!

Mike

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Old 05-30-2007, 08:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
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honestly, to save $$$ in the long run, i would go for the longer inner outer shaft. B4 having it, i would split blades everytime i would do a sharp turn. Got used to turning with my Trex and when i would get to my blade cx, well had to walk on egg shells. Now i can make it bank all the way to one side, then bank really fast to the other side without even the thought of blades hitting. Buying metal swashplate gives you more "sideclick" but doesn't do any good if blades keep hitting. As for the led's. Connnected one LED (via wires) + and - to the other led. Then wires to the batts. Batteries are 3V lithium batteries (about the same dimensions as a nickel)
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Old 05-30-2007, 03:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You're right about the cost thing. Actually I almost don't have blade strikes anymore but that's because I fly like "to walk on egg shells" as you've put it. I'd like to fly more freely and do more exiting figures without blade strikes and crash. Ok, I will still crash it once in a while...



Thanks for your advice
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Old 05-30-2007, 05:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i'm at a point that i do what i want with the BCX ( of course inside it's possibilities lol) fly almost everyday and change my blades once a month maybe two, due to gusts of wind that make me hit the side of my house lol. With Trex parts that cost alot, i want to be 200% sure that i can fly it. Best way to make sure (putting aside simulators that don't give you the full thrill) is the BCX. I remember my first day with it. I thought it was sooooooo unstable that i crashed on every flight. cost me ALOT in parts, but after a while, you can flight it around and under obsticles ( nabourhood kids hihi)
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Old 05-30-2007, 05:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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main shafts for a rex are 9 bucks for 3. blades are about the same as a blace cp or cpp. the cost of crashing a cpp to a rex. the rex should be cheaper by a good amount...

i know you have a bcx but crashing the rex wont be a big deal. just the se model with the aluminum head and tail sets
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Old 05-30-2007, 06:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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when it comes to a tail boom, blades etc... then you got to order it in + shipping + customs, it gets alot more expensive then the BCX that they sell at corner hobby shop
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Old 05-30-2007, 06:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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and by the way i have the new SE
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