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Old 02-05-2012, 04:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default fbl conversion

has anyone done this using stock parts? the web site did not show how it just gives a part #
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Old 02-06-2012, 01:32 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Check out rhams thread hear in the Audacity group title RNFBL. He has a link that will take you to a site where he shows 2 different methods. Todd
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Old 02-07-2012, 11:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Sorry folks, I forgot to turn on the file in the database. Basically, the FBL conversion uses stock parts so the cost is nearly free. Moreover, it's so simple you'll be amazed and astonished at how well it flies (especially because you don't need to spend big bucks on a new head to get a good flying FBL helicopter). Here are the instruction for the RNFBL conversion:

http://www.audacitymodels.com/Produc...3/Default.aspx
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Old 02-09-2012, 01:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Wow then, my Pantera is a real marvel of engineering. How many Helicopter can be converted in a FBL with basically 0 investment.

Congratulation JB this product is and I can't stop to say a marvel machine.
Saludos.
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Old 02-10-2012, 08:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by salamandras View Post
Wow then, my Pantera is a real marvel of engineering. How many Helicopter can be converted in a FBL with basically 0 investment.

Congratulation JB this product is and I can't stop to say a marvel machine.
Saludos.
JB does have an awesome heli, but being able to convert like that isn't unique to the Pantera. Almost every heli can be done the same way. If you have any other helis that you want to convert, you can use pretty much the same instructions to accomplish it.
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Ok, doing the redneck conversion on my 55HZ Pantera now.

Good to take down the head, I had a blade grip that seems notchy, and now I have a grippy that I can use to hold the feathering shaft so no more vise grips.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:03 AM   #7 (permalink)
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When i recieve my cgy750 and new reciever from tower hobbies, we will see how this bird flys.


Conversion went smooth no issues at all.

If you don't happen to have the correct drill bit laying around, I used my 1.5mm Dynamite hex driver shaft to remove the pins, and enlarge the hole for the re-pinning.

This is supposed to be simple after all.



Now i have an extra multi gov pro and spartan gyro to sell.

Plus with the extra receiver I have now, the Pantera 50 can go back in the air also!
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Last edited by edhall; 03-23-2012 at 08:27 PM..
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:30 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm gonna order a 750 this week and build another RNFBL. These builds flat out work, e.g. fly nice, cost virtually nothing, and are fun to do.
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Great got the CGY750, receiver, and related parts for the Trex 600 I crashed, due to the Pantera being down for the conversion.

Two birds to work on, looks like rain this weekend so, plenty of time to get it done.

Pantera is going to get the priority though. That CGY750 sensor is SMALL!
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:53 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Ok guys i finely got my tarot zyx dialed in and working Saturday,so far it works very good but i am still doing small adjustments to the gains. while flying on my third tank the tail slider ring came off the slider bearing so its of t my shop for spares.
shes ready to go again if this rain will ever stop. overall i am impressed with this fbl unit my bud has a Sinergy 50 with fbl head and spectrum beastx and not sure of his total cost in going fbl, my coast was redneck conversion with two 2mm bolts and the zyx 46.00 bucks.
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:10 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I have another post on the CGY750 Forums asking about settings on the CGY750 for the Pantera, it might be nice if some folks posted theirs here or in the other thread I created in the Audacity group.
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Finally got the head moving the right direction, the servo arms 90 degrees, and the swash level by turning some linkages, and using the Audacity swash leveling tool (the tool works great, no guess work).

Ok so I have 12 degrees of pitch at -47 in my Pitch Gain with the Red Metal Futaba 20mm servo arms, (last Hole on outside).

This is a OS 55 HZ motor so it can handle 12 degrees a little better than an a stock OS 50.

Pitch with the rate at -50 was 12.5

With my existing Pantera RNFBL head conversion I get 12.5 degrees of pitch at -50 Pitch gain.

I get 12 degrees at Pitch -47, so I may have to move my servos in a hole.

It will be interesting to see how this flys in the stock 20mm hole location, to see if there is enough resolution.

8 Degrees of elevator / Aileron cyclic was set at Elev - 63 and Aileron +56.

Gus told me that I might have to move the servo links in some, looks like the next to the last hole is about 16.5mm, but my measurement might be off since I have not pulled the horn yet.

The RNFB conversion is right in the middle, if I change my servo hole, I'll get more resolution, but my linkage geometry will be off, if I don't then I may not have the required resolution.

No other choice but to fly it. It might fly great, as is.

Make sure that you spend a good amount of time with the CGY750 sensor placement (as with any FBL system), and getting it square and in the middle of the airframe to minimize any unwanted interactions.

Maybe Gus will chime in as he has been flying the 750 and fine tuning it, although with a FBL Synergy dedicated head.
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Looking forward to hearing about your flight results Ed.
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Ed if you go in to 16.5mm you are going to have higher throws in the swash menu that what the 750 wants. You should try and keep them as close to 50 to 60 as you can, If you move the swash arms in try to make the inner swash plate balls out as far as you can. You are geting about the same thing I have on the Radikal try it and if gets the shakes and you can not get them tamed down then try the next hole in on the arms.
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Align makes metal Futaba spline-fitting arms...18mm holes pre-drilled...$23. I lfew these today... swash PIT AFR is now 56 for +/-12 degrees. Shakes are at a min though I did have to lower P gain to ~ 45% at 1800HS. At 1950 & 2000, p gain is 75% & 80%, respectively.

Ed, I'd try the setup you have just to see...make sure you have a good head-speed setup in the Gov...min ~1800.

If it shakes...then start leaning towards the shorter arms. Hard to say what you'll experience vs the Synergy parts I'm turning.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:57 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Are these the ones HSP61011 - D6EF Gus?
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Old 03-26-2012, 05:06 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Sunday was pretty much a wash out but i was not one to give in,i went to our club field determine to fly and meet with my flying buds and waited in between showers to fly.
i was still working on fine tuning my setup on my zxy unit and having tail issues,after changing the settings on the tail i came to the conclusion my spectrum 6040 servo was bad.
i hate problems like this so i went home and robbed a 9524,man the good ol pantera flies like it's on rails in stock form but now its like it on super cruse, rolls and loops are different like nite,day.
with all the storms sunday i only burnt two tanks of go juice and can't wait for the weekend to really turn it loose at our panterdize field.
10- 10 collective
7 cylic
good ol hy50
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:09 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Are these the ones HSP61011
Yes.
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:50 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Okay so I decided to do the conversion... I got it all assembled but is the now inverted
Swash follower/mixer supposed to be locked in place somehow under the rotor head or free floating?!?! If free floating, in playing with the rotor head I can get it to situation that everything binds up and pops a link.... I'm sorry for the elementary question but something must not be right...
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:27 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Yes the swash follower (I believer the washout base) should be locked into place on the bottom of the head. Use 2 M2x25mm screws and screw them through the washout base (if I got the name correct) and into the bottow of the head where you removed the 2mm washout pins. Then use the set screws for the washout pins to help hold the 2 M2x25mm screws. This should hold it in place. I hope this is the part you were talking about. Todd
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