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Old 07-06-2012, 08:31 AM   #101 (permalink)
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looks ok Lars - but you will find the idle-1 curve too high...

I don't have 100% on any of mine yet... without a gove 100% can too easily cause over-reving as fastflyer states.

I would maybe start with the curve as 60-30-60 instead of 100-30-100... then go fly and see how it goes...

A lot of the final setup will be determined by your heli, your setup and your flying style..

So start with throttle curves very low and conservative.. you can always increase them easily as desired..

However, Fastflyer has a lot more experience than I do so listen a lot to what he has to say...
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:34 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Guys, one question before I'm going to maiden. Can you guys turn off your zenoah with the tx?
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:38 AM   #103 (permalink)
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err, yes!
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:09 AM   #104 (permalink)
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Just like a nitro, throttle trim all the way down should stop the engine. Some radios also allow you to program a throttle cut so you dont need to move your trim before every flight. Make sure the butterfly is fully closed with trim all the way down.
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Old 08-01-2012, 11:55 AM   #105 (permalink)
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Throttle cut is programmed in my 14mz. In this position the carb is fully closed and the servo arm is at it's 0 position.

But now I've another question again. I did something wrong I guess, because my "throttle hold" and stick full negative, which is the same as motor stationary I guess? In this position it is also fully closed and servo at 0 position.
What I ment to say is that there's no difference between cut and hold/stick full neg.
How do you guys solve this? What are your stick positions for zenoah stationary?
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Old 08-03-2012, 02:32 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Anybody?
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Old 08-03-2012, 03:23 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Increasing travel of the throttle channel may solve this.
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Old 08-03-2012, 10:29 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Most radios have a "throttle hold" screen which allows you to adjust the throttle opening 1% at a time. In my JR radio I have mine set to 8 which allows the engine to idle nicely when the throttle hold switch is activated. If by chance the engine does die (or idles at too high an RPM!) I can simply increase or decrease that number which as the same small effect on the throttle opening.
I would bet that Futaba has a similar screen in its High end radios.
I do not use a throttle cut but merely reduce the trim on the throttle channel to close the carb butterfly completely. (however the trim reduction will not work until I switch back out if Throttle hold)
I hope this helps.
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Old 08-03-2012, 11:05 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Default How I setup my stuff

Generally speaking I make things so that the motor will idle with the throttle curve first point at 0. Throttle cut is used to kill the motor (close the carb just about all the way) and then I setup a mix to close the carb part way from idle for choke. All this is on a 3 position switch, up all the way is run, in the middle is choke, and on the bottom is kill. Throttle hold is a seperate switch that goes to idle from any mode, and recently I changed out the kill so it works from anywhere, idle up or throttle stick up as otherwise it would only work with the throttle stick all the way down.

When you go to start the motor cold, you put the kill switch on choke. 1 or 2 pulls and she's running, a little fast at first, but will slow down within a few seconds when it richens up. Once it does, then you switch it up to run position and the motor will idle normally. This is actually beneficial as if you start the motor in throttle hold cold and it does catch, it may run too fast at first until it richens up and goes. This is true if you have no mechanical choke and are using a simulated choke via the throttle plate.

Hope this helps.

-=>Raja.
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:27 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Unfortunatly no maiden today.
Before I want to maiden it, I wanted to check my throttle curves, hold and cut. But of course also I checked vibrations....
Unfortunatly couldn't my heli handle the vibes of the zenoah engine..

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cjt_u9t2s9M&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/ame]

Can you guys help me PLEASE??
I thought I did took my time and used all the best advise (add 3M tape, use malories setup, nice clean and flexible wire setup and of course I used hot glue) building a good 700 gasser. But for now I'm a sad man...
Please help me solving this problem.
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Old 08-08-2012, 05:56 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Anybody who has a solution or a good advise?

Is this a wel known problem?
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Old 08-08-2012, 06:05 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Lars mate, i have the same problem, i put a velcro around the beastx, and the vibes almost gone! try it, and let me know
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Old 08-09-2012, 11:28 AM   #113 (permalink)
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Mounted another kind of tape, more non flexible, and no more vibes at the swash plate!!!
Whoehoew!! Really happy now!
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:55 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lars Linders View Post
Throttle cut is programmed in my 14mz. In this position the carb is fully closed and the servo arm is at it's 0 position.

But now I've another question again. I did something wrong I guess, because my "throttle hold" and stick full negative, which is the same as motor stationary I guess? In this position it is also fully closed and servo at 0 position.
What I ment to say is that there's no difference between cut and hold/stick full neg.
How do you guys solve this? What are your stick positions for zenoah stationary?
I use the 8FGS and I have it set so that hold goes to the same as my idle setting and throttle cut goes to full closed. I have it set to not be able to engage cut unless the stick position is below 15% (helps reduce possibility of an accidental cut!).

- Josh
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Old 08-10-2012, 01:06 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lorenb View Post
Lars mate, i have the same problem, i put a velcro around the beastx, and the vibes almost gone! try it, and let me know
In my opinion your pad is to flexible, because you need to make it less flexible with your velcro. I've tried another less flexible pad, and at first try the vibes look gone.
I will try it again, and after that I'll maiden it.

How do you guys measure youre rpm?
Do some of you use the 'Helitach' app for iPhone?
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Old 08-10-2012, 01:59 PM   #116 (permalink)
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You can use a tach such as the Miniature Aircraft, I use a governor which is highly recommend on a gasser. You can turn it off and on to get the throttle curves to match.
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Old 08-10-2012, 02:54 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastflyer20 View Post
You can use a tach such as the Miniature Aircraft, I use a governor which is highly recommend on a gasser. You can turn it off and on to get the throttle curves to match.
Which governor do you use?
Do you use a seperate Governor?

Is it really necessary using one??
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Last edited by Lars Linders; 08-10-2012 at 04:55 PM..
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Old 08-10-2012, 04:57 PM   #118 (permalink)
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I use a Futaba GV-1, they are "old" technology but work very well with gas engines. To pick up the signal, use the Futaba sensor or a Stator Gator (easier to install).

GV-1 are often sold used for around $50.
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Old 08-11-2012, 12:28 AM   #119 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastflyer20 View Post
I use a Futaba GV-1, they are "old" technology but work very well with gas engines. To pick up the signal, use the Futaba sensor or a Stator Gator (easier to install).

GV-1 are often sold used for around $50.
+1 The GV-1.Stator Gator combination is probably the easiest installation on a gyro that also works very well.
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Old 08-13-2012, 02:11 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Do I still need to setup my throttle curves when I use a governor?
Because the gv1 holds the rpm at for example 1900 at itself? Or am I wrong?

I've never worked with a governor.
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