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mCP X Brushless Mods Blade Micro CPx Brushless Mods and Conversions


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Old 09-01-2012, 08:29 AM   #301 (permalink)
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Hi Olli

I have to laugh at myself , I knew the ICSP pins were different , But it hadn't occurred to me that , of course , all the pins would be different .

Thanks again , best regards
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Old 09-08-2012, 01:57 PM   #302 (permalink)
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@nimic:

attached please find an attempt of a scheme of how to connect the hobbyking step-up voltage booster to the Arduino Uno + LCD shield BLHeliBox...

I have drawn the option, where the booster output is connected to the Vin of the Arduino board. This is most safe, since this way the Arduino's internal voltage stabilizer is used as kind of a protection against unwanted voltages, but the actual voltage which the Arduino + shield sees may not be really 5V but somewhat smaller... I believe that it should be enough voltage for the LCD shield to run (maybe you have to turn the poti knop for contrast), but I don't of course know, only the real experiment will tell...

If you find that this mode isn't working for you, you should connect the booster output with the Arduino's 5V pin (i.e. the blue line labelled Vin should be wired to the pad just left to the GND pad).

Let's see how this works.

It would be kind of cool if the booster would fit inbetween the Uno board and the LCD shield, maybe you could check.

Olli
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Last edited by OlliW; 09-09-2012 at 03:19 AM.. Reason: attached figure replaced by a better one
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Old 09-08-2012, 02:24 PM   #303 (permalink)
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BTW: I just pulled the trigger on such a unit, Arduino Uno + lcd4884 shield
not really cheap, but doesn't need a voltage booster LOL, and looks like it could be a cute little thing... anyway, I am looking forward programming a graphical display, never done that before, will be fun... hopefully it comes soon

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Old 09-08-2012, 04:18 PM   #304 (permalink)
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Hi Olli
That lcd4884 shield looks super cool , is that a little joystick next to the reset , I can see I will have to order one .

Thanks
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Old 09-08-2012, 05:34 PM   #305 (permalink)
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Quote:
That lcd4884 shield looks super cool
yeessss...
Quote:
is that a little joystick next to the reset
yeessss...
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Old 09-09-2012, 01:16 AM   #306 (permalink)
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@ Olli,

Thanks for that sheme, tomorrow i will fwetch the orderd parts from the custom. The box works realy great now, but i hope it will work with the converter.


The box is a realy great, to check the ESC and look what parameter are changed. It would be great, when it could work as a standalone tool. Then the PC will only be used to send the hex files to the box :-)

THX Olli for this great tool!
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:57 AM   #307 (permalink)
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@corbatjean:
attached please find a zip with the owsilprog hex for a mega1280
filecompare indeed found many differences as compared to the mega2560 hex, this doesn't proved that the op code is indeed different, but at least...

let's see how it goes

@copperclad, I am working on your wishes/suggestions, but it seems to need more changes than I liked... (always these little register changes)... not sure I am patient enough to go through
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Old 09-09-2012, 06:17 AM   #308 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
@corbatjean:
attached please find a zip with the owsilprog hex for a mega1280
filecompare indeed found many differences as compared to the mega2560 hex, this doesn't proved that the op code is indeed different, but at least...

let's see how it goes
Olli
You know what ?
It's working like a charm, I already flashed two ESC with absolutely no issue. Thank you. (if you make it official, it will require adding the platform in your menu, otherwise the command line with the -F flag is required.)

Once again, great work and great software. (5 stars.... out of 5 :-) )
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:12 PM   #309 (permalink)
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Hello everybody,

I have some RCX esc and i wanted to know if there is a way to flash them ?

Thank a lot.
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Old 09-09-2012, 04:05 PM   #310 (permalink)
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Quote:
@copperclad, I am working on your wishes/suggestions, but it seems to need more changes than I liked... (always these little register changes)... not sure I am patient enough to go through
Hi Olli
No worries , If it is too much trouble , I thought it would just be the two lines to change when I suggested it , But I see it is a lot more work to implement than I thought .

best regards
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Old 09-10-2012, 10:34 AM   #311 (permalink)
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Default Its done ...

Hi, the step up converter arrived today and so i could solder the part to the HELIBOX. it works perfect, look at the Video ....
THX for Olli (great help, great job)
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:12 AM   #312 (permalink)
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excellent job, Michael

So, tell us, the idea to power the box via the Vin pin as shown in the above scheme does indeed work (the only evidence I see are the two little solder drops a the bottom of the lcd shield...)?

Also, I can't see the converter, so, may I assume, you could nicely install it "somewhere"? Would you mind to provide close-up figures or a scheme or whatever of how it really looks like now or how you have done things?

(maybe followers will appreciate it, and I am curious too)
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:32 PM   #313 (permalink)
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THX Olli, your help and your job, i only have followed the instructions, but it works realy fine!
I solderd the step up converter as u have told and it worked fine. Only the contrast has to be changed.
Thers is so much space inside the two shields, that i cpould taped it with some doubleadhesive tape on the lcd shield. have a look at the pictures...
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:19 PM   #314 (permalink)
 

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Using a phone cable cut in two through a female female connector, Arduino uno rev 3, puting wires into little black boxes. if I hold them onto the back I get the same error.
Verify... Please wait!
delay... OK
v... er
>OlliW SilProg v0.08 PB3PB4
r... rok
d... dok0A
i... iok
.Block read FAILED!

Using a xp-7a. Battert 1s 550mah 97% charge.
Windows Xp (sp2 I think)
To connect to uno using 5 foot printer cable.
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:25 PM   #315 (permalink)
 

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got it working. using hpo6s v2 10t pionon what settings?
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Old 09-12-2012, 04:05 PM   #316 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Another Flyer View Post
Using a phone cable cut in two through a female female connector, Arduino uno rev 3, puting wires into little black boxes. if I hold them onto the back I get the same error.
Verify... Please wait!
delay... OK
v... er
>OlliW SilProg v0.08 PB3PB4
r... rok
d... dok0A
i... iok
.Block read FAILED!

Using a xp-7a. Battert 1s 550mah 97% charge.
Windows Xp (sp2 I think)
To connect to uno using 5 foot printer cable.
Have you got the right hex file for flashing the Ardunio? I took owsilprog_v008_m168_16mhz_pb3pb4.hex
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Old 09-12-2012, 04:20 PM   #317 (permalink)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by nimic View Post
Have you got the right hex file for flashing the Ardunio? I took owsilprog_v008_m168_16mhz_pb3pb4.hex
Yes see above post
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Old 09-16-2012, 01:53 PM   #318 (permalink)
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Default How cool ist this: BLHeliBox with graphical display

Hey Folks,

I am really thrilled... I recieved my Arduino Uno plus the LCD4884 shield, and converted the BLHeliBox code to this... and I do find the result really cool . See the pictures below, judge yourself.

Everything works neatly, and now it works also directly from a 1S lipo (I tested down to 3.4 V). No need for a step-up converter or such. The second picture is supposed to show this full remote operation independent on a PC or other power sources. It of course allows also to run as a owSilProg programmer for flashing the BESC and setting the paramters through a PC with BLHeliTool.

As regards construction, one has to only fabricate a suitable 4-wired cable (GND, C2CK, C2D, VCC) to connect to the BESC. Otherwise, the Arduino and shield are just clipped together and programmed as usual using AvrBurnTool in few mouse clicks.

The lcd4884 shield is significantly smaller than the LCD shield used before, and features a joystick instead of the keys, kind of cool. The box is still somewhat larger than the Robbe programming box, which I liked so much and used heavily in other projects of mine. Could be smaller, but I find the size OK, in particular considering the better features like graphical display and background light.

The firmware you'll find in the next post (beta version, not "officially" released, just for those who want to try).

Olli
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Old 09-16-2012, 02:26 PM   #319 (permalink)
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Default Uno + lcd4884 shield: considerations for discussion

below attached the firmware.

OK, having made the point how cool this Uno+LCD4884 box is in my opinion, let me now elaborate on the drawbacks!

It is significantly more expensive. I paid 35,99 EUR incl shipping, and it was the cheapest deal for both an Uno and a lcd4884 shield I found (as a result, my bundle included an Uno Rev1 and not the latest Rev3... but that's really not an issue, the differences are marginal and irrelevant for us). However, one has to factor in that it replaces an owSilProg or Toolstick, so, these are not needed saving about 10-25 EUR.

Also, I find it a bit unconvennient that the pin connecters on the frontside of the shield are already presoldered... there are quite some of them, and without them the box would have a much better handling. Maybe I am going to desolder them myself. Increases of course the building time.

Also, I wonder why folks haven't made the Uno board smaller... I mean, there is so much unused space on the board, and everything would have easily fit within the shield area... and why sticking with this huge USB connector, a mini would be cool...

Hardware-wise it is also sad that the Arduino developpers did not included the ideas of users on the Arduino forum, such as jumper to disable/enable the auto-reset feature, or a jumper for disabling/enabling USB bus-powered operation.

The latter is in fact a bit of an issue, and I puzzled for quite a while how to best deal with that... maybe some one of you has the prefect idea.

The point is that the Uno can be powered from a number of different sources and uses some sort of logic to decide which power source to actually use. This is good and makes it (most often) very convennient for users. It can however also have drawbacks, as in our case. I haven't realized that before, and in fact if one uses a step-up converter as e.g. Nimic did, the issue doesn't occur. The issue is that if one powers the box from an 1S lipo and SIMULTANEOUSLY the box is connected to the USB cable, then USB (5V) power output and the 1S lipo are connected directly, i.e. fights against each other. Since the USB is 5V it wins and kind of charges the 1S lipo... and if the voltage raises above 4.2 V may damage both the lipo and the BESC...

In order to avoid that, I considered a couple of "solutions"

1) Never connect simultaneously 1S and the USB cable to the box.
Well... not very user friendly... and according to Murphys laws... shit happens...

2) Remove the FET (T1 in the scheme) which switches between USB power or power through Vin.
The effect would be that the ATmega and shield are powered only and always from the 1S lipo. It prevents any hazzles, but one couldn't e.g. program the Uno board without seperate power source anymore. The modification is simple. The modifcation can, in princple, be reversed if one wants to, but this is not that easy. Also it is clear, this is a modifcation, and hence intrinsically inconnvenient.

3) Connect the + pin (pin2) of the comparator (U1A in the scheme) with +5V.
The effect would be that if a power source with more than 3.3 V is attached to the +5V pins, then the board would switch off USB powering and use this source instead. In principle a good solution... only that one then should not connect a 1S lipo with less than 3.3V to the board... not very likely but according to Murphy... Furthermore, it's a modification which requiers some solder experience (but is easy to reverse). And as before, this is a modifcation, and hence intrinsically inconnvenient.

4) Connect the 1S lipo power line via a (Schottky) diode with the +5V pins.
If one chooses a "good" Schottky diode with as little voltage drop as possible, this is a safe and well working solution, and needs no modifications of the Uno board. But it needs a diode... and fabricating the cables to connect teh box with the BESC is slightly more involved than before.

Anyhow, I decided to use option (4), and luckily, I found a "good" Schottky diode in my drawers (the voltage drop is nominally 0.13V and in reality about 0.25V, that's good, but the diode is pretty big...)

Any better idea? (please first think it through and/or test it before reporting)

Olli

PS: I guess I will design my own board for the lcd4884 display...
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Old 09-17-2012, 08:59 AM   #320 (permalink)
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Default Please look olso at XMEGA

Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
below attached the firmware.


Any better idea? (please first think it through and/or test it before reporting)

Olli

PS: I guess I will design my own board for the lcd4884 display...
Please look at the Xmega from ATmel (3,3 V)

Great work , will get a LCD 4884 for my ardinuo board
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