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Blade 450X Blade 450X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 10-10-2012, 02:14 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default So I finally decided to do a Bx setup...

Day off so I took the head apart. Heli wasn't as crisp as when it was out of the box, blades were louder than normal, tracking looked a bit off. Circa 150 flights about.

Dampers looked alright but they were surprisingly squishy compared to a new pair. So I changed them. Spindle didn't look bent but I rolled it and wasn't sure, so that went too. One thrust bearings was a bit notchy so they both went. I probably should tear the tail apart but I think I'll wait for another 50 or 100 flights.

THEN did BX setup for the first time ever lol...

Heli is all stock.

Got a bit of a surprise. I dialled up 12 collective and then couldn't get a blue light at the cyclic ring step 'L' - full positive collective and forward elevator - the elevator bellcrank thingy struck the canopy post. If I mitigated this with reducing cyclic throw, I'd lose the blue light.

So this head set at swash height = 15mm per official blade tool, on my heli with stock servos, appears to have that issue in the circumstance described above.

I wonder how they actually set my heli up at the factory. Well I actually took a pitch gauge on to it (first time ever) prior to doing the setup and I have a feeling they only dialled in 10 collective which would take the load off that step 'L'.

So...

+1 to Blade/Horizon for getting this heli to pretty much fly out of the box the way it did (I have had 150 flights without doing anything but gluing on the Bx).

Do I give them -1 for this binding at full positive issue?

I don't know - might just be my heli. I 90'ed the elevator servo as best I could.

Might just have to run less collective or less cyclic and let the Bx grumble about the orange light at setup step L. It shows me just under 9 degrees of cyclic deflection in orange. About or just over 10 when the blue light comes on. I think 9 should be fine.

What do you all do?


I'm going to fly 12 collective and orange light the L binding step and see. Maybe try 10 collective and blue light it later and compare. Or just run 12 collective and blue light it and let it bind if I ever stickbang it that far lol.
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:37 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd take the bellcrank assembly off at the servo and lever-arm assembly, and just rotate it a few teeth away from the strike-direction on both sides. I'd assume counterclockwise if it's striking the leading edge. Then screw it back in on both sides and re-do setup. It's what I had to do with mine to ensure no mechanical strikes. It won't be squared up at zero, but it should have enough range of motion to fully cover both directions of travel without binding or striking.

Also, apparently whoever set mine up initially didn't bother getting the servo horns on at 90 degrees at reference-center, just used the BX adjusts to center it from wherever they slapped them on. One was off by more than 30 degrees! Rectified since then, of course, and might explain why my swash tilted hard to one side on initial power-up, until it was actually spooled. Doesn't do it any more now.
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for that - I'll see how it goes!

By the way, my own X was ok in terms of servo arm splne choice. I tried to do better but could not.
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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To keep the bellcrank arm from hitting the canopy post, I turned the top link in 2 turns and the bottom link out 2 turns.....either way.

Since I consider the 450X ABNF and not BNF, I do the full setup straight out of the box.

And I also don't believe that each 450X has been test flown....as some have said.

FWIW
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:22 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I just did two setups and one I couldn't get blue on L and the other I could. I don't worry about hitting the post with the better servos...used to stress a bit over it with the stockers though.

Heli seemed to fly perfectly fine with red on L and still had about 12-12.5 degree of pitch each way.

I couldn't get my bell crank straighter (parallel arms) though if I offset one, I'd prob be able to get a better result with the canopy post.

I'm more concerned about when dialing up blue on L, if I rotate the head with full cyclic and collective (right stick hard top left), I will actively get binding if I push too far into the blue here. I had to back it right off to the red and creep into the blue to alleviate that level of binding.

The manual doesn't state you need to rotate the head assembly but I'd hate to get binding at 3300+rpm so I do it this way.
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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"I had to back it right off to the red and creep into the blue to alleviate that level of binding."

That's exactly what I had to do.....couldn't explain it better.....
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