What's Your Power Setup for the Mikado Hughes 500 (Logo 600SE)?

[Ricci]

I would just be happy to receive any feedback from people flying the Mikado Hughes 500 fuse mounted on the Logo 600 SE.

I am planning the following setup:

Kontronik Jive 80HV with a Scorpion HKIII 4035-450KV motor on 4500mAh 10S Lipo packs.

Main Gear 106T and Mod 1, motor pinion 12T.

According to my maths I should be flying at around 1400 RPM for smooth aerobatics:

450 [KV] X 40 [V] X 12 [PT] = 216000 [TPM]

216000 [TPM] / 106 [MT] = 2038 [RRPM]

Finally, setting up the ESC at 70%:

0.7 X 2038 [RRPM] = 1426 [RRPM]

Where:

KV = RPM / V
V = Volt
TPM = Teeth / Minute
PT = Pinion Teeth
MT = Main Gear Teeth
RRPM = Rotor Revolutions Per Minute

How does this setup look to you guys?

Ricci.

[Stolla]

Mine ran 12 s on actro but friend had 400 kv scorp on 12 s, i would recommend the smaller 11 t pinion though for best flighttimes, also larger packs for cg, i used 5500 hyperions,
Jive 80 is good but i would go 12 s which has lower amp draw than 10 s, i macined shaft down to take 10 t 5 mm pinion and could get in the region of 18 mins flying around big sky with loops etc, 3d incl slow piroflips rainbows etc set my timer to 10 mins.

[Ricci]

Yes, I will have to see at how low RPM can fly this ship. If it can go as low as 1100 or 1300 RPM and still fly great, then 11T can be a good option for my setting with extra long flight times.

However, I do want to fly with smooth aerobatics, so I will test first with the 12T.

Also, I am concerned about the balancing, it does seem that with under 5000mAh lipo packs the Hughes 500 gets tail heavy (I have a couple of Gens Ace 5300mAh so I will compare).

Maiden flight should tell me all on that...

Thanks,

Ricci.

[dahld]

Even with the larger packs, the model may still be slightly tail heavy (most scale ships are ).

I use a plate that gets velcro'd in with, and on top of, the batteries. This plate has weight on the front end (so the weight is as far forward as possible to reduce the amount needed), and the amount of weight is adjusted for perfect balance.

If different packs are used, then I have a separate plate for each battery type, so I can mix and change batteries at will, and never have an out-of-balanced model.

(-: Dave

[Ricci]

Originally Posted by dahld

Even with the larger packs, the model may still be slightly tail heavy (most scale ships are ).

I use a plate that gets velcro'd in with, and on top of, the batteries. This plate has weight on the front end (so the weight is as far forward as possible to reduce the amount needed), and the amount of weight is adjusted for perfect balance.

If different packs are used, then I have a separate plate for each battery type, so I can mix and change batteries at will, and never have an out-of-balanced model.

(-: Dave

Great idea Dahld, how heavy are you battery weights so I can build my owns?

Ricci.

[dahld]

Worst case scenario with 10S 4500 packs requires 125 grams of weight on the plate, positioned as far forward as it can go with out hitting the interior of the windscreen.

10S 5000 packs require less weight on the plate of course, and all-in-all, each model will be unique in the amount needed to balance.

(-: Dave

[Ricci]

OK thanks Dahld, the other thing I'll try is just to fix the batteries 1 or 2 cm forward to the front of the tray and see if that is enough to move the CG and balance the heli.

That way, I will not have to add any additional weight to the heli.

Ricci,

[Ricci]

OK, I moved my 2 4500mAh batteries 1,5cm forward to the front and now the heli balances well when handling it with 2 fingers, one on each blade grip positioned perpendicular to the tail, so I should be good to go.

Only thing is that now the front battery is hanging 2/3 out, so it should be well tied on the tray.

Ricci.

[Freeskiken]

I use a custom heli parts carbon battery tray on my Logo 600 SE. You could grind more off the front edges and make it stick out more this way the batteries would have some support.

[Ricci]

Originally Posted by Freeskiken

I use a custom heli parts carbon battery tray on my Logo 600 SE. You could grind more off the front edges and make it stick out more this way the batteries would have some support.

Yes, that is the way I will also go.

Thanks,

Ricci.

[Ricci]

I am currently flying my Hughes 500D at 1600 RPM with 12T motor pinion and 60% on the ESC.

I may still go at bit lower on the RPM's.

Some few pictures from Today:













Ricci.

[dahld]

Looks cool. Makes me want to go fly mine (and I think I will)

FWIW...if you paint flat black (just use a small brush and some plastic modeling paint), any and everything on the inside of the fuse that you can see through the windows that isn't already black, the heli "presents" better, and has a more scale appearance. The white color of the interior fiberglass around the windows etc. just doesn't look good...at least to me

(-: Dave

[Ricci]

Originally Posted by dahld

Looks cool. Makes me want to go fly mine (and I think I will)

FWIW...if you paint flat black (just use a small brush and some plastic modeling paint), any and everything on the inside of the fuse that you can see through the windows that isn't already black, the heli "presents" better, and has a more scale appearance. The white color of the interior fiberglass around the windows etc. just doesn't look good...at least to me

(-: Dave

Thanks Dahld, yes I'll try the black color trick in the cabine.

Ricci.

[GimpyGolden]

Your power setup will be plenty.
On my 600 scale machine I am running:
Jive 60hv w/Heat Sink
4025-450 hand wind
10S 4500

This machine is a Marvel Craft Bell 412 and is pretty heavy.
Also swinging a 4 blade head with 600mm RotorTech's.
ESC comes down just above ambient after 10 minute flight.

Not doing any aerobatics with it but am doing lot's of full collective speed runs and fast, hard turns.

[OICU812]

Be interested in hearing what lowest "comfortable" rpm you settle on. I really want to rig up one of these Mikado scales one day!!!

[dahld]

Running a Jive down at 15% throttle, (10S battery with a 500kv motor and the smallest pinion), 1250 head speed is fun. The heli is almost silent, and with a little background noise from other helis and the world going on, it IS silent. The Jive handles it fine.

Not much good at that head speed or anything but hovering and slow circuits, but I usually end flights by bring it in for its final approach, hover and landing at that low head speed. Guys who've not yet seen it, usually think I'm loosing power as I approach and am going to crash, until it stops and hovers

The heli gets fully capable of giant loops and all the regular forward flight aerobatics at 1500 head speed, and does soft 3D at 1600.

Still, it's pretty pricey, but man, what a great and fun change of pace once-in-awhile

(-: Dave

[OICU812]

Exactly why I want one Dave, change of pace describes it to a T. Now the challenge is actually being able to get one of these fuses.

[dahld]

Sorry Shawn..as I know this probably doesn't help

I added some details, like the steps on the struts and foot steps on the side, antennas, and some other surface "eye candy" detail (refueling ports, door handles...stuff like that).

(-: Dave

[OICU812]

Yup that doesen't help! Just makes me want one more thanks! A foot of snow to shovel this morning now this!

[Ricci]

Originally Posted by dahld

Sorry Shawn..as I know this probably doesn't help

I added some details, like the steps on the struts and foot steps on the side, antennas, and some other surface "eye candy" detail (refueling ports, door handles...stuff like that).

(-: Dave

Nice touch Dahld, I love those antennas.

What about installing a fake turbine in the cabine back? I wonder if it is possible to cut a hole in the fuse and then fit a piece of pipe in there...

Ricci.