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Old 05-01-2012, 03:40 PM   #21 (permalink)
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60 year old eyes...... damn I only have three years to go before I start to fall apart then???
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:05 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I had 20/20 in one eye and 20/25 in the other until I was 40. 25 years of staring into computer monitors 12 hours a day took it's toll. And at 60, I am paying for the stupidity of my youth. Hopefully you were smarter than I was, and then you might have 5 years till you fall apart. :-)
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Old 05-05-2012, 05:25 AM   #23 (permalink)
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I wear glasses but not too bad on the long vision so far, short needs help but not too bad.

Just realised that I have one of my kids heading your shortly, they are heading from somewhere in Europe across to Orlando to go to all the theme parks.
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:01 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tahoe Ed View Post
As a general rule you don't want to put more than 80% of the capacity of the Lipo. For example if you are using a 2650mAh 4S lipo, when fully charged, you want to put back about 2220 mAh. If you put back more then you are over discharging your lipo and could shorten it's service cycles. If you are going to be in this sport, the best charger that you can buy will pay dividends in quicker charges and more flying time. I can charge 2 2650 in about 15-20 mins.
I know this is an old thread but I disagree with this.

According to battery manufacturers, it's the other way around. Don't "Discharge the battery more than 80%", in other words, if you have a 2600mah battery, don't take more than 80% out during the flight. It's fine to charge it back to "Full", if you've not over "Discharged" it, it should only take 2080 milliamps to recharge it to "full" at 4.2 volts per cell. Take millamp measurements at recharge and if it takes 2200, then cut your flight time down.

You can just divide the milliamps put back by the number of minutes flown to find out how many milliamps you use per minute on average and adjust accordingly to only draw 2080 milliamps or close to it during the flight. If you fly the same way each time, using time shouldn't be an issue but keep in mind that new batteries will get stronger as you cycle them, then at some point they will start losing strength after many times of charging. Try to charge at 1C most of the time (If it's a 2600 milliamp battery, only charge it at 2.6 amps).
If it's like the Hyperion batteries, you can charge them at 5C or even 6C if it's labeled for that but I wouldn't do that too often, once in a while would be OK.
Also, at first the battery will charge at whatever you set it at (5C or 13 amps for a 2600 milliamp battery for instance) but as the battery charges, it will lower the charge current on it's own if you've got a good charger.

Most good chargers are preset at 4.2 volts per cell as standard and is typical. Also, good chargers won't let you overcharge them unless you up the target charge voltage.

Over "Discharging" is the real killer for Lipos. Over "Charging" can be just as bad so if you leave it at 4.2 volts per cell, it'll be just fine.

I hope this helps!
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:13 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graviteesuks View Post
I know this is an old thread but I disagree with this.

According to battery manufacturers, it's the other way around. Don't "Discharge the battery more than 80%", in other words, if you have a 2600mah battery, don't take more than 80% out during the flight. It's fine to charge it back to "Full", if you've not over "Discharged" it, it should only take 2080 milliamps to recharge it to "full" at 4.2 volts per cell. Take millamp measurements at recharge and if it takes 2200, then cut your flight time down.

You can just divide the milliamps put back by the number of minutes flown to find out how many milliamps you use per minute on average and adjust accordingly to only draw 2080 milliamps or close to it during the flight. If you fly the same way each time, using time shouldn't be an issue but keep in mind that new batteries will get stronger as you cycle them, then at some point they will start losing strength after many times of charging. Try to charge at 1C most of the time (If it's a 2600 milliamp battery, only charge it at 2.6 amps).
If it's like the Hyperion batteries, you can charge them at 5C or even 6C if it's labeled for that but I wouldn't do that too often, once in a while would be OK.
Also, at first the battery will charge at whatever you set it at (5C or 13 amps for a 2600 milliamp battery for instance) but as the battery charges, it will lower the charge current on it's own if you've got a good charger.

Most good chargers are preset at 4.2 volts per cell as standard and is typical. Also, good chargers won't let you overcharge them unless you up the target charge voltage.

Over "Discharging" is the real killer for Lipos. Over "Charging" can be just as bad so if you leave it at 4.2 volts per cell, it'll be just fine.

I hope this helps!
Re-read it again, you're arguing the same point.
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:38 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z_man_95 View Post
Re-read it again, you're arguing the same point.


I thought the same thing
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Old 09-21-2013, 06:06 PM   #27 (permalink)
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In my best Monty Python voice......

Hello is this the room for an argument??

Good work guys now I don't know what to do with my packs....
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Old 09-22-2013, 01:01 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petedee View Post
In my best Monty Python voice......

Hello is this the room for an argument??

Good work guys now I don't know what to do with my packs....
LOL!!!!
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Old 09-07-2015, 11:56 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Default Flamewheel f550

I have recently finished building my F550 Stock motors and ESCs E310 Fully loaded with camera Gimble and FPV system and i got 16 Minute flight time with 7200 ma SMC Battery and with cool motor and ESCs amyzing setup the only thing that is not DJI is my frame is a cheap frame from amazon and it is awesome
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Old 12-12-2015, 12:24 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Smile flamewheel 450/550

the 550 has the advantage of still flying if you lose a motor or a prop to return to take off point. as far as 6s lipo you would have to change out the motors/esc's the pmu is good for up to 6s lipo.I like the DJI flight controller
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Old 05-20-2016, 12:16 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thursday View Post
I have 6 3S 2200 maH batteries for my T-rex 450 I'd like to be able to use on a multi-copter. I'm looking at both the DJI F450w/naza and F550w/naza right now. I'm leaning more towards the 450 if my batteries will work with it, but I'd still like to hear from owners of both the 450 and 550 as to the pros and cons of each.

What kind of flight times can I expect for my battery size and would it be able to take two in parallel?

I've read about torsional flex in the arms and wonder if this is a serious problem, or if it needs to be addressed? What other problems do the Flame wheels suffer from? Should I purchase aftermarket props? Can someone explain to me the difference in the props included with the kit i.e. 8 vs 10?

Which retailer do you guys recommend to buy it all from?

Lastly, this is the only Multicopter I've really been exposed to. What are it's competitors if any?
Hey Thursday! I'm the proud owner of a Flamewheel F450 I've tricked out with a camera gimbal and Command and Control data links.

The frame is more than large enough to take two packs in parallel. I get about 5-7 minutes on a 5000 mAh 3S pack (I'm going to swap to 4S in the near future for better flight times) because of my abnormally high current draw from everything that is strapped to the aircraft. With a 2200 mAh 3S pack I get about 3 minutes of flight time, again, I probably have more hanging off the aircraft than anyone else in the thread.

Don't worry about flex, the aircraft is solid as a rock, I noticed that has been covered earlier in the thread, so I won't bang on about it. The aircraft uses a weird prop combo, the longer props go one rotation, the smaller props go on the other. The main issue you'll have is if you move up to 4S, you'll want to go with smaller props (8in props), as the motors get REALLY hot on 4S with stock props.

The aircraft is an awesome one, most of the issues I see with it are due more in part to the Autopilot system that DJI bundles it with, it isn't very good for professional work, and it can't get missions uploaded to the aircraft without a datalink. This comes from someone who will be employed in the UAS industry in the next few years, however. The autopilot system works great as a flight controler, and it holds GPS position and altitude pretty well, I have no complaints there.

You can order everything from Helipal, I just ordered a T-Rex 450 from them and it got here in 2 days from Hong Kong (I live in the Midwest). They did a good job, and nothing was missing. If you end up wanting to hang anything off of it, B&H Photo Video sells pretty much anything you could want (gimbals, data links, the whole 9 yards), and I believe they also carry the kit too.

Enjoy the build, it's really simple, and have fun flying it!

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-Andrew
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Old 05-23-2016, 10:39 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I use the Pulse 3300 4s on mine, I get around 7 minutes or so. As for camera, for the time being I slapped a sticky mount on the bottom as I can't afford a gimbal. I'm really new in this area as well, been flying helis since 2012, but only recently started farting around with multirotor

I do plan on building a F550 in the fall though. I like the redundancy that a hex offers. There's a guy down the street that told me he'd help me out on one
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