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Old 02-09-2014, 08:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Which spindle is right for FBL?

The kit has two spindles included, one 52.67mm, and one 51.63 mm. Which one is the correct one to use with the low profile flybarless head?

Thanks,
Rick
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Old 02-09-2014, 08:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Which spindle is right for FBL?

The long one. Use the wide spacers between the grips and the rotor head with it.
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Old 02-09-2014, 09:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The long one. Use the wide spacers between the grips and the rotor head with it.
OK, thanks. Thanks. I took a chance and did exactly that. The strange part is that both grips seem a bit notchy unless I pull out on them when I turn them. Is that typical?

Rick
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Old 02-09-2014, 09:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Which spindle is right for FBL?

Make double sure you have all the thrust bearing parts installed properly.

Personally I have flown often with somewhat notchy grips (easily move with one finger of pressure in the grip arm), but it should be pretty smooth when it is a fresh build.

The way I see it, it is a dynamic system with a lot of outward pressure. Also consider how hard the servos have to work to maintain AoA of the blades compared to some light notchyness in the grips.

Disclaimer: I am not a perfectionist.
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Old 02-09-2014, 10:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Code3Medic View Post
Make double sure you have all the thrust bearing parts installed properly.

Personally I have flown often with somewhat notchy grips (easily move with one finger of pressure in the grip arm), but it should be pretty smooth when it is a fresh build.

The way I see it, it is a dynamic system with a lot of outward pressure. Also consider how hard the servos have to work to maintain AoA of the blades compared to some light notchyness in the grips.

Disclaimer: I am not a perfectionist.
Thanks. When I built my Rush 750, the grips were quite tight until after I had spun it up once. I thought maybe these were similar. I managed to get the grips upside down while watching Paul and Ringo play so I get to pull them apart anyhow. I did the first side right but must have flipped it prior to installing the second one. I hate when I do that.

Rick
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Old 02-10-2014, 02:22 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah, from memory that's normal - when you pull on the grips and turn them they smooth.
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Old 02-10-2014, 02:37 AM   #7 (permalink)
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OK, thanks. Thanks. I took a chance and did exactly that. The strange part is that both grips seem a bit notchy unless I pull out on them when I turn them. Is that typical?

Rick
Well if when you pull out on them slightly they turn smoothly then it won't be a problem in flight with the amount of centrifugal force

My blade grips have always been somewhat notchy on the bench, never noticed anything wrong in flight though.
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Old 02-10-2014, 03:19 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yep, it's normal, grips get notchy once you tighten the spindle bolts. I was able to get them smooth by only snug tightening the spindle bolts and leaving blue loctite do its work. You have to precisely measure the length of spindle shaft on each end, then carefully tighten both sides so that you get equal length of thread in.
Packing thrust bearings with a lot of quality grease helps too. I use the Hudy red performance grease for this -> http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/prod...ducts_id=18374

It's a different story with the new version of Lynx dampers. Head is super tight when you assemble it and bearings are notchy whatever you do... It makes the Mini razor blade sharp once in the air so I don't care anymore
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Old 02-10-2014, 06:05 AM   #9 (permalink)
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OK, thanks. I won't fight it then. I'll just flip my grips and call it a day. I'm pretty happy with the simplicity of the head/main shaft/main gear design. I'm glad I went with the low profile hub with the wash out arms connected directly to it.

Rick
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by baui2000 View Post
Yep, it's normal, grips get notchy once you tighten the spindle bolts. I was able to get them smooth by only snug tightening the spindle bolts and leaving blue loctite do its work. You have to precisely measure the length of spindle shaft on each end, then carefully tighten both sides so that you get equal length of thread in.
Packing thrust bearings with a lot of quality grease helps too. I use the Hudy red performance grease for this -> http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/prod...ducts_id=18374

It's a different story with the new version of Lynx dampers. Head is super tight when you assemble it and bearings are notchy whatever you do... It makes the Mini razor blade sharp once in the air so I don't care anymore
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Old 02-15-2014, 08:24 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I think I have assembled and reassembled the head about 10 times. Only once was it not notchy. I always have one smooth and one notchy.
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