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Mikado V-BAR Mikado V-Stabi/V-BAR Flybarless System Software and Hardware Support


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Old 09-24-2013, 11:36 AM   #201 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBum View Post
The voltage out of the satellite ports is regulated, so increasing the input voltage won't help.

However, since you're running a LiFe pack, you should be able to run a diode, maybe two in series to be safe, inline with power coming from the pack to drop the voltage for the sensor. If you have a full sized VBar, you could just make up a short extension cable with the diodes inline and plug into the Sensor II port without the need for an extra power wire.
Thank you for the information about the satellite port - regulated voltage. I am running mini vbar and the hobbywing rpm sensor can work up to 8V or so. So, I may not need a diode or two to lower the input voltage to mini vbar and rpm sensor.

Why MrMel said in the video that we could utilize the satellite port to provide power to rpm sensor ?
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:54 AM   #202 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcc014 View Post
Thank you for the information about the satellite port - regulated voltage. I am running mini vbar and the hobbywing rpm sensor can work up to 8V or so. So, I may not need a diode or two to lower the input voltage to mini vbar and rpm sensor.
Yep, sounds like you're good with a straight power hookup. It'll be an easier setup than using satellite port power too.

Quote:
Why MrMel said in the video that we could utilize the satellite port to provide power to rpm sensor ?
Most sensors can run off 3.3V. I just remembered that the Sensor II port on the full sized VBar also uses the 3.3V regulated voltage, so the last thing I said above wouldn't work. My Hobbywing sensor runs fine in that port (on 3.3V).
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:24 PM   #203 (permalink)
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Yep, sounds like you're good with a straight power hookup. It'll be an easier setup than using satellite port power too.


Most sensors can run off 3.3V. I just remembered that the Sensor II port on the full sized VBar also uses the 3.3V regulated voltage, so the last thing I said above wouldn't work. My Hobbywing sensor runs fine in that port (on 3.3V).
Thank you so much for the explanation.
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:24 PM   #204 (permalink)
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I may misunderstand what you guys are talking about but I know I read something about the max RPM/gov signal that can go into the mini vbar is 5v, any more and you are supposed to step it down. So even though the PS can handle HV up to 8v, the signal coming back to the mini cannot exceed that 5v max.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:04 PM   #205 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trippledigitss View Post
I may misunderstand what you guys are talking about but I know I read something about the max RPM/gov signal that can go into the mini vbar is 5v, any more and you are supposed to step it down. So even though the PS can handle HV up to 8v, the signal coming back to the mini cannot exceed that 5v max.
That's a different issue. It only applies to the signal line (orange/white/yellow wire, depending on brand). I think electric phase sensors limit their signals to 5V. Magnetic sensors may or may not.
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:07 PM   #206 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TheBum View Post
That's a different issue. It only applies to the signal line (orange/white/yellow wire, depending on brand). I think electric phase sensors limit their signals to 5V. Magnetic sensors may or may not.
Oh OK , thanks for the clarification. I am powering my PS at 5.5v and I was concerned that extra .5v on the signal to mini v was creating 'gov signal glitches' alerts. But I havent changed or checked the actual signal voltage yet - mainly because I dont know how to check the signal voltage!
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Old 09-24-2013, 03:04 PM   #207 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trippledigitss View Post
Oh OK , thanks for the clarification. I am powering my PS at 5.5v and I was concerned that extra .5v on the signal to mini v was creating 'gov signal glitches' alerts. But I havent changed or checked the actual signal voltage yet - mainly because I dont know how to check the signal voltage!
For a magnetic sensor, you just need to get the magnet over the sensor and measure between the signal wire and the ground wire, or not have the magnet over the sensor, depending on whether it's a normally high or normally low signal . For a phase sensor, if the signal is normally high with the motor off, you can measure the voltage as with the magnetic sensor. If it's normally low, you'd need to spin up the heli and use an oscilloscope.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:46 AM   #208 (permalink)
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The Hobbywing sensor signal voltage is around 0.5/0.7V lower then the supply voltage to the sensor. So running it on a 2S lipo will create a signal voltage to high for a mini-V.

On Full-size, the sensor II port is indeed regulated voltage, but I believe it was regulated at 5V but not sure...
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:49 AM   #209 (permalink)
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So for Hobbywing sensor, if I run an external BEC @ 6V, the signal level should be fine for mini vbar, correct ?
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:37 AM   #210 (permalink)
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So for Hobbywing sensor, if I run an external BEC @ 6V, the signal level should be fine for mini vbar, correct ?
That whould be borderline. The signal will be at 5.3/5.5V. Max input voltage on rxa is 5V.
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:08 AM   #211 (permalink)
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That whould be borderline. The signal will be at 5.3/5.5V. Max input voltage on rxa is 5V.
I see. Then definitely needs a voltage divider to reduce the signal voltage into RxA. Thanks.
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:20 AM   #212 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mverhorst View Post
That whould be borderline. The signal will be at 5.3/5.5V. Max input voltage on rxa is 5V.
In which case, a single diode inline with the signal wire should do the trick. That'll drop the voltage by another 0.6-0.7V.
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:34 AM   #213 (permalink)
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In which case, a single diode inline with the signal wire should do the trick. That'll drop the voltage by another 0.6-0.7V.
Good suggestion
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Old 06-02-2014, 10:35 AM   #214 (permalink)
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Once you set your governor up in vbar ,that works fine, & you raise the rpm's in Vbar . Do you need to redo the throttle off & max throttle settings on a electric heli ?

Last edited by aviatorflyer; 06-02-2014 at 02:27 PM..
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Old 06-15-2014, 05:53 PM   #215 (permalink)
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Once you set your governor up in vbar ,that works fine, & you raise the rpm's in Vbar . Do you need to redo the throttle off & max throttle settings on a electric heli ?
Not that I am aware of. I just changed my max rpm and that is all I did.
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Old 07-20-2014, 04:10 AM   #216 (permalink)
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Question Setting dual rates in mini V bar

Thanks to Mr. Mel's vids I know how to set Expo in my mini Vbar.

Just need help in setting dual rates ?

I tried setting them in my transmitter, but that does not seem to make any difference.

Is there a way to set up dual rates in Mini V Bar ?

Appreciate advise.

thanks!

Edit: Maidened today with dual rates in radio, it is working.
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Old 02-07-2015, 03:32 AM   #217 (permalink)
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I have been living with my problem for almost a month,

I have 75 HV Castle creation edge ESC with 6s 1800 pack along with 10A bec connected with the ESC together from the same lipo.

I have t-rex 450 sport, it's inside a HH-1N fuselage with belt drive tail up.

the head is converted flybar to flybarless and the pushrods are connected from the swash not from the swash lever arms, the helicopter been flying good with out the Vbar,

then I decided to install the mini VBAR I have futaba r7008sb and I run it with 14sg futaba radio,

I connected the Vbar through the S-bus and Iam using the 14 fastest on my radio,

the first problem is that when I start programming the Vbar (5.3.4) disable governor from the Vbar and from the castle link and connect the esc cable to the RXB (Vbar) and the bec to the futaba RX to power it on

first I select the trim box, I go out to fly it's start vibrating and then fly like dream then I land, then after that if I go fly one moren time sometimes take off nice and then after few seconds or minuets start twitching really bad left or right and I almost can putting it down.

and if I plug it into my PC and remove the trim and go to fly after the dream fly will go nice and then start twitching bad!

I checked the head twice and I checked all the bearings, the motor I use is 460MX Brushless Motor (1800KV) checked it with no problems found!

then I start working to setup the governor in the VBAR thinking that the disabled governor could making that problem, but after I connect the esc in RXB and the white single cable that comes from the esc into the RXA then I start programming the VBAR the setup will not go through like what should be ; like when I go to the setup page I select the CH 3/ esc/ preset and the other selection is RXB then I go to number 2 page and start selecting on get the read mark on and then moving the motor to get the lower point and then the top point but when I click finish and go to the finished page here is where I can't see the green lights on the fail safe, ramp limit, low limit, full thru etc the only blue bar moving when I move the thru stick to less than half thru, and reading speed limit good with the stick all the way to the top,

so the speed reading good but like I said no green light on the steps showing,

so I think the withe rpm cable that comes with esc not working with Vbar!!

please help!
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Old 02-15-2015, 08:30 PM   #218 (permalink)
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When you first set the gov up on the Vbar did you choose electric and then click the Reset button? It's important to click that reset button after choosing to turn the gov on.

Also, what do you have the Edge set to in the Castle Link? External gov?

I'm no expert and may not even be able to help any further but I know those are two important questions that need to be answered first.
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