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200SRX Blade 200SRX Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 01-20-2015, 10:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default DIY - Replacing the Stock Chassis for the 200SR X

I get this request often so I decided to go ahead and do a writeup about it. It helps that I managed to break the chassis on one of my birds.

The process is quite simple. The main thing that you MUST NOT DO is put the gorilla torque on the screws and strip out the screw holes. Most of the screws just need to be firm, NOT gorilla tight. Remember, you're dealing with plastic here, not metal so go easy on torquing them down. Test the screws in your old chassis to get an idea as to how tight yours need to be. With that in mind, lets get started!

For those wondering why mu parts are so pretty, see this thread.




Step 1: Get yourself a new chassis. Notice the part number on the package.



The new chassis will come with all the necessary screws, bolts, bearings, washers and nuts to assemble it. You can start a spare screw collection with them if you still have all of those parts from your old chassis. That's the nice part about buying new parts. More screws!




Step 2: Assemble the new chassis. There are 9 screws, 4 washers, 4 bolts and 4 nuts that hold the chassis together. You will only be installing the 9 screws at this time. Be sure and place your bearings into their respective spots BEFORE tightening the screws around that location.






Step 3: Start disassembling your busted bird. Remove the blades from the rotor head first. There are a few things that WILL NOT get taken completely apart. You will remove the tail assembly as a complete unit by removing the 4 bolts and nuts that hold it inside the chassis, the 2 screws that hold the tail boom support rods and unplugging it from the ESC. Cut the necessary tie wraps as you go. You may want to look at my repair thread if you need more clarity on how things are assembled.




Step 4: Next, remove the skids, unplug and remove the ESC and the anti-rotation bracket and canopy mount set.




Step 5. Remove the main gear. Once the main gear is removed, you will be able to lift the main shaft, the swashplate and rotor head out of your broken chassis as a complete unit.



NOTE: If you have crashed enough times or hard enough, you may have wallowed out the holes on your main shaft, which will make removing the bearing a real pain. If this happens, see my repair thread on resolving this issue.

Step 6: At this point, you will remove the servos and main motor. BEFORE removing the servos, mark them so that you will know which servo goes where during reassembly. Although the servos are exactly the same, the linkage arms are positioned differently on both, as well as the linkages that connect to the swash plate. I marked mine in this manner. "A" for aileron (side of helicopter), and "E" for elevation (front of helicopter).



The last thing to remove is the receiver. If you are careful enough, you may be able to save the double-sided sticky tape that holds the receiver in place. If not, don't worry as your helicopter came with an extra piece for the receiver when you bought it. That piece is located in the little plastic bag that contained among other items, your bind plug and some tie wraps. Do NOT use that on the ESC. It is meant for use on the receiver. It is thicker than what is used on the ESC, as it acts as a shock absorber to keep vibrations from getting to the receiver during flight. If you have lost yours and need to buy some more, the part you need is called "Futaba Gyro Double Sided Foam Mounting Pads" (30x30mm). If you Google "FUTQ1000", you should find it being sold all over the place. As of the creation of this writeup, Tower Hobbies has some for sale for $4.49 US.

That takes care of all the parts on the broken chassis. At this point, you should be checking your servos to see if any teeth are broken. If you GENTLY operate the servo gears, you will feel a slip in their movement if a tooth is broken. See my repair guide for resolving that issue..


Step 7: At this point, you are ready to start the reassembly of your bird. The first thing that you do is install but DO NOT COMPLETELY TIGHTEN the main motor and screws. DO NOT FORGET THE WASHERS! If you forget the washers and tighten the motor screws, they will destroy your chassis!

You will NOT fully tighten the screws to the main motor until you get it properly alined with the main gear. Failure to do so can result in the main gear being meshed TOO TIGHT against the main motor and burning it up.




The main motor mount holes on the chassis are OBLONG so that you can slide the main motor forward or backward. This is done to allow the proper amount of tension of the main motor pinion against the main gear. It is very important that you get the correct mount of tension and NOT make things too tight!

Here's a video that shows how a properly mounted motor and main gear should perform. If yours does not spin this freely, you need to loosen the adjustment. If you look at the holes in the chassis where the main motor mounts, you will notice that there is some play so that the main motor can be adjusted forward and backward.




Step 8: You are now ready to add the main shaft assembly and the main gear, keeping in mind what I stated above. In the following picture, you will see that the anti-rotation bracket AND canopy mount set is installed. DO NOT install them at this time. This is actually a picture I took while disassembling everything.




Step 8: Install the receiver using the anti-vibration, double-sided sticky tape that I talked about earlier in this writeup. Notice that it is THICKER than the double-sided tape that is used to secure the ESC.






Step 9: At this point, you are ready to install the ESC and the skids. Install the ESC FIRST and connect it to the main motor. After connecting it to the main motor, you can then use some 3M double-sided sticky tape to attach it to the chassis. Then use the skids to lock it in place.















Step 9: Now you can tie wrap the motor and ESC wires in place. One you have tied everything down, manually turn the main gear to make sure that no wires are rubbing against the main motor!

DO NOT make these tie wraps too tight ay this location. It will make the chassis easy to break at this spot if you crash!








Step 10: Install the tail boom assembly. It's a little tricky but the frame will open up enough to easily get it installed. There is an alignment tab on the left side of the chassis (when viewing from the rear), that matches up with a cut out in the tail boom. Make sure that you match them up. See pictures below for clarity.










Step 11: Now you can install the anti-rotation bracket AND canopy mount set. MAKE SURE that the pin from the swashplate goes through the anti-rotation bracket.




Step 12: At this point, you will install your servos, attach the linkage arms to the swashplate and connect everything to the receiver. Again, my repair writeup has detailed information on installing the servos if you need it but it is pretty much 3 screws and you're done if you didn't damage them. After they are installed, you will plug everything into the receiver and tidy everything up with zip ties.










Add your blades, the Velcro in the battery spot and your canopy and GO FLIGHT!

If you didn't damage or disassemble your servos, there should be no need to do any kind of calibration. If you did either of those things, look at my repair thread on what calibrations you will need to do.

That's it boys and girls, have at it!





The Junkman
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Old 01-20-2015, 10:57 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Saved.
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Old 01-20-2015, 11:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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hh should ask you to do a re-builb manual for all there birds. will save a lot of newbes a lot of time. yet again another well put together how to
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Old 01-20-2015, 11:51 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thank you sir.

I was hoping someone would have done one for my MCPX BL. Looks like I'll get stuck doing that one too.
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Old 01-20-2015, 02:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I used this a few months back to replace my stock rebuild. Worked like a charm, but I have done so many light rebuilds to it, it was almost second nature. lol
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Old 01-20-2015, 03:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmy & Lassie View Post
I used this a few months back to replace my stock rebuild. Worked like a charm, but I have done so many light rebuilds to it, it was almost second nature. lol
You probably used my repair thread. I just put this up today.
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Old 04-21-2015, 09:49 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Another amazing write up by Junkman! I will be doing this starting tonight. I busted my frame in the exact same place you did. I think it's because I had those to zip ties too tight, like you mentioned (also because I crashed :-p). I only checked them last week after I noticed my blue motor wire was exposed from the factory zip tie.
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Old 04-21-2015, 09:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Once you've done it, you'll see that it's a pretty easy repair.
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Old 04-21-2015, 10:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
Once you've done it, you'll see that it's a pretty easy repair.
I'm assuming it will be. I just have to remember to go slow and be detailed. I did just finish building a 450 3d from the ground up so this has to be easier than that. Thanks again Junkman. I will post my results when done.
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Old 04-21-2015, 10:22 PM   #10 (permalink)
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DEFINITELY easier than that.
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Old 04-22-2015, 06:48 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Should have posted on here the other day - I finished my frame replacement on Sunday, and without this guide there is no way it would have flown as well as it did straight out of the trim flight!

So thanks from me too Junkman
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Old 04-22-2015, 06:58 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lloydbayliss View Post
Should have posted on here the other day - I finished my frame replacement on Sunday, and without this guide there is no way it would have flown as well as it did straight out of the trim flight!

So thanks from me too Junkman
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Old 04-22-2015, 10:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Well Junkman, thanks to your guide and some know-how I got it all back together. I would have had all the parts at home (needed the frame, tail boom, tail stabilizer fin) except it turns out my main shaft was bent as I could not get the bearing nor the swashplate off. So, because of your guide, instead of struggling I just went out to my lhs and got the swash, fin, and a new main shaft to replace the one I am using.

I went to out my 13t pinion on but it does not fit. I got it from xtreme prodctions (they didn't say it was for the 200 but I took a shot as it was the same size) but it would sit up too high on the motor shaft as it does not have a large enough ID to sit on the bottom, larger part of the motor shaft that the set screw is on. Anyways, not a biggie.

Thanks again Junkman for giving me the confidence!


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Old 04-22-2015, 10:53 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm hearing more and more from folks trying different parts that do not work. It's almost like HH manufactured these parts to only fit their bird. That's why I stick with stock or Rakon parts. At least I know that they will work.

You know, HH doesn't manufacture any of these parts, they get them from outside the country. I'm starting to wonder if a place like Rakon actually manufactures the stock stuff. It would explain as to why all of their parts work and pretty much look identical to the stock stuff. Hmmmm....
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Old 04-22-2015, 11:56 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman2008 View Post
I'm hearing more and more from folks trying different parts that do not work. It's almost like HH manufactured these parts to only fit their bird. That's why I stick with stock or Rakon parts. At least I know that they will work.

You know, HH doesn't manufacture any of these parts, they get them from outside the country. I'm starting to wonder if a place like Rakon actually manufactures the stock stuff. It would explain as to why all of their parts work and pretty much look identical to the stock stuff. Hmmmm....
Well that, my friend, is interesting. I knew HH didn't manufacture anything. They're more or less a distribution company, no? I had all of the Rakon stuff in the checkout yesterday but then decided to put that money towards a 180 cfx. Well, I will soon. Getting a Dx6 soon and I want the fly the 200 with that and get used to it first.

Anways Junkman. HH should be paying you a salary because I'm sure you are the sole reason a lot of people have had success flying and repairing these things. Thanks again.
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Old 04-23-2015, 08:48 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Did I dream it, or did HH have some Rakon after market on their items for sale for a short time?
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:00 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Yes they did.
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