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Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room Finless Bob's Helifreak Tech Room - Tips and how-To Videos


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Old 12-25-2014, 03:49 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Raptorapture View Post
I have been tempted to add a torch to the mix. Especially after reading about making sure the bottom of the cup is hottest which makes a lot of sense to avoid a cold solder joint where you can't see it. It is the one location that is furthest away from an iron and most difficult to heat. Did you also tin the bullet with the torch?
Yes, I did tin the bullet with the torch. For example if I tin the female bullet, I put the male in the vice and insert the female on it , heat it up and melt the solder then it is nice and easy to grab the female with a pair of pliers and shake it over a box.

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I tried a Butane Mirco-Torch but decided to stick with the iron. With the torch you need to be careful you don't overheat the solder/connector as too much heat can ruin the connector/joint as well. The butane torch can reach ~2,500F+ while a good temperature controlled iron is good for ~800-1,000F max.
OK good point, sometimes the solder catches fire, is that bad??......
I also notice the resin pool on top of the solder, do you clean this off and then reheat, if you don't what will happen, introduce contaminants? increase resistance, weaken the joint.? When I use the Iron, as soon as the wire goes in it goes into the plastic state, then I have to wait while it heats up and during this time wicking occurs. May be the eutectic solder will be different?? I could control the heat with the torch by flicking the flame.

Is it OK to just tin the wire with about 2-3mm of solder only?

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Old 12-27-2014, 11:05 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I follows the steps in the second video of post #136 above adjusting as necessary for a larger bullet connector.

Here's what a perfectly soldered bullet connector looks like. This was done with a soldering iron.

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Old 12-28-2014, 06:34 AM   #43 (permalink)
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How's this? Getting there I think?


Why is my solder a grey colour and not shiny? I did clean after with isopropyl alcohol.
I have used this stuff, is it wrong?


http://www.toolsave.co.uk/product-dr...Fc3LtAodRmsAxw

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Old 12-28-2014, 07:11 AM   #44 (permalink)
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I use a 60/40 also never a problem ace dude may be using a high silver/lead solder
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:54 AM   #45 (permalink)
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When tinned and ready to solder I used a croc clip to hold the wire onto the connecter,,when you heat the bottom of the connecter the solder melts and the wire is pressed down by the croc clip,,worked for me!
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Old 01-09-2015, 06:20 PM   #46 (permalink)
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One thing I am doing when dealing with thick wire that poofs in diameter after being stripped is to tin the end of the wire BEFORE stripping the end. With silicone wire the insulation doesnt burn. Then when I strip it theres a little ball of solder on the end that has barely tinned the wire tip and it will slip into the cup. When its a close fit this helps. I like to fill the cup 1\2 way and I like to think of that cup as a micro solder pot and heat sink. With some flux on the wire end I slowly push the wire into the solder and as soon as the solder flows on the wire pull the heat off and hold till cool. This eliminates wicking because the wire tins and cools inside the cup in one step, and the wire is flexible right to the cup. I have also put silicone fuel tubing over the wire and heat the end to compress the strands and when it cools it can slip in the hot cup easily.
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Old 01-10-2015, 12:16 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingspan99 View Post
One thing I am doing when dealing with thick wire that poofs in diameter after being stripped is to tin the end of the wire BEFORE stripping the end. With silicone wire the insulation doesnt burn. Then when I strip it theres a little ball of solder on the end that has barely tinned the wire tip and it will slip into the cup. When its a close fit this helps. I like to fill the cup 1\2 way and I like to think of that cup as a micro solder pot and heat sink. With some flux on the wire end I slowly push the wire into the solder and as soon as the solder flows on the wire pull the heat off and hold till cool. This eliminates wicking because the wire tins and cools inside the cup in one step, and the wire is flexible right to the cup. I have also put silicone fuel tubing over the wire and heat the end to compress the strands and when it cools it can slip in the hot cup easily.
I love your technique of tinning the tip before stripping to stop fraying and consequently enlargement. For some reason I have difficulty getting the solder to flow without wicking too much but seem to be getting better. Are you applying heat to the wire directly?
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Old 06-18-2015, 03:45 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Just ordered a butane dremel iron. I only had old, primitive ones and my only experience with soldering is from guitar pickups. Hopefully the learning curve isn't as steep as many other aspects in this hobby
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Old 10-20-2015, 10:01 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Anything and everything you could ever want to know about soldering. Watch the entire series, you will learn a lot!

Basic Soldering Lesson 3 - "Cup Terminals" - YouTube
Just wanted to say thanks for sharing this. I've been an electronics pro for 25 years and thought I knew everything there was to know about conventional soldering but I learned a few new things in those ancient videos. I watched the entire series on my lunch break today.
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