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NX7 Discussion and support of the Gaui NX7


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Old 12-16-2016, 08:21 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Old 12-16-2016, 08:21 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Oh yeah, if this doesn't make it fly well, I don't know what will


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Old 12-16-2016, 11:51 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Be sure to let us know
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Old 12-17-2016, 01:14 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Be sure to let us know


I sure will. Maybe Tuesday I'll fly it if weather ok.


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Old 12-17-2016, 07:15 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Hell no is that red gel tape?????
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Old 12-17-2016, 09:30 PM   #26 (permalink)
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It's Lynx vibe killer gel tape. It's slightly compressed with the zip ties. I have Zeal tape in stock which is more gooey than the Lynx gel tape. I decided to give the Lynx a shot.
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:36 AM   #27 (permalink)
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I don't fly Vbar (beastX and Brain), but every time I experimented with any other tape other than the grey or clear 3M, the outcome was never as good. Always ended up with drift or tail wag. A solid 3M mounting has always worked best for me. I've tried the Lynx red vibe killer, Futaba foam, blue/green zeal gel, zipties, velcro....all never really worked better than 3M. This has taught me that if I'm noticing something funny, start looking in to sources of vibration. Nitro motor, tune of motor, rear engine bearing, fan/clutch assembly, main bearings, tail assembly...chasing vibes is no fun but it's necessary. I will say that the NX7 has been the most trouble free nitro I've owned. Just my $0.02.
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:04 AM   #28 (permalink)
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My NX7 was flying great with Vbar silverline with the sensor on in the back of the heli.

The NEO case did have a crack and broken tab which more than likely was the culprit. Maybe I went a little overboard. The clutch stack was also out of balance.

Mikado has documented that the NX7 has a high frequency vibration which affects the NEO rescue which is the entire reason I went to the neo.
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Old 12-23-2016, 10:59 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Ok, my Milton mod with Lynx gel tape, metal plate, 3m grey tape did not work well. Heli pitching up un commanded as the rpms get higher like before. Vibes were very high on the At motor rpm.

Next, I cut zip ties off and the problem was worse with vibes at several different spectrums.

Next, I removed the gel tape below metal plate and put futaba gyro tape. Heli flew ok but vibes still high at motor spectrum.

My next step is to move the NEO to the back of the heli. If that fails, I'm going back to my old silverline.
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Old 02-06-2017, 10:03 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Good update:

After battling different mounting methods for the last couple months, I came up,with a solution for my set up. I have the external sensor in the back of the heli mounted with the thick Lynx vibe killer gel tape. The main NEO is mounted up front with Zeal gel tape, aluminum plate, 3m grey tape, then NEO. The main NEO is zip tied with pieces of foam on top of NEO just like one of the pictures above.

Flew the heli 4 times today and actually flew it without battling some bad tendencies. It felt locked in and the only issue I had was small governor problems which I can tune out.

I'm still afraid to test the rescue feature. I'll definitely taker her high up if I do.
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Old 02-08-2017, 07:45 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Just a quick heads up on this neo issue.

My mate has a Synergy N7 that was flying perfectly on a Silverline, and we swapped it out for a Neo. It was a bag of $hit!! Really bad throttle issues and drifting, yet nothing had been changed except the FBL unit.

On the bench with the heli plugged in, if we touched the wires going into the neo, the throttle servo started jumping and jittering.

He sent the Neo back to Germany, only for an email back to say they had found a bad solder joint between the 2 pcb boards!! The Neo was replaced with a new one, but with it came a note suggesting that seeing as the Neo was for use in a Nitro heli, they endorsed the use of hot glue INSIDE the case, to hold the boards rigid to the case, and to stop any movement between the 2 boards!! He did this and the N7 is now perfect again.

I have Neo's on electric models, but I think I will stick with my Silverlines on all my Nitro heli's.

It sure is about time they gave away FOC to everyone with a Neo a replacement case that's not thin and flimsy!!
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Old 02-08-2017, 11:57 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rctintin View Post
Just a quick heads up on this neo issue.

My mate has a Synergy N7 that was flying perfectly on a Silverline, and we swapped it out for a Neo. It was a bag of $hit!! Really bad throttle issues and drifting, yet nothing had been changed except the FBL unit.

On the bench with the heli plugged in, if we touched the wires going into the neo, the throttle servo started jumping and jittering.

He sent the Neo back to Germany, only for an email back to say they had found a bad solder joint between the 2 pcb boards!! The Neo was replaced with a new one, but with it came a note suggesting that seeing as the Neo was for use in a Nitro heli, they endorsed the use of hot glue INSIDE the icase, to hold the boards rigid to the case, and to stop any movement between the 2 boards!! He did this and the N7 is now perfect again.

I have Neo's on electric models, but I think I will stick with my Silverlines on all my Nitro heli's.

It sure is about time they gave away FOC to everyone with a Neo a replacement case that's not thin and flimsy!!
This is great update, I've always been worried about the board just floating around in the NEO case. You can grab the connectors going into the case and wiggle it feeling the whole board move inside. Can you post a pic of how you guys glued it in there? I'll definitely look into this.

My other 2 NEOs which are on electrics do work very well. Nitro is a whole different animal though.
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Old 02-09-2017, 04:42 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Sorry mate, I don't have any pics. Just open up the case, and take the pcb's out. Put a ring of hot glue in the bottom of the case and fit the pcb's back in. Add some more glue to each side between the boards, and on top of the pcb's, and fit the top back on.

Also, I'd be sure to restrain the connectors a little way back from the Neo, say 30-40mm back, so they cannot act any leverage on the Neo.
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:46 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Good description. Thank you. I did improve the wiring going into the NEO.

Too lazy right now to take NEO apart today. Maybe next week!
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:53 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Is it even possible to take the case apart without breaking the tabs?
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Old 02-10-2017, 10:57 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Is it even possible to take the case apart without breaking the tabs?
I wouldn't count on it! I do have a spare version 1case.
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Old 02-17-2017, 04:47 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Yes you can, just use a very small watch screwdriver, and 'gently' release them.
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Old 03-03-2017, 06:18 AM   #38 (permalink)
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When you say the tabs are you referring to the clips that lock the cover down on the main body of the NEO casing?
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