trex 800 new torque tube H80T011AXW vs older H80T011XXW - HeliFreak
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Old 12-23-2016, 05:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default trex 800 new torque tube H80T011AXW vs older H80T011XXW

hi all,

I am in the process of stretching my newly bought JR E12 Ito edtion using align T-rex 800 torque tube. I noticed there are two torque tubes, the newer H80T011AXW and the older H80T011XXW. I have the older H80T011XXW on my Forza700 stretch project.

I understand the improvement is on the attachment structure between the two ends and the long aluminum tube. The older tube seems to have the tips screwed onto the tube, maybe with loctite.





My few questions:
1. Has anyone experienced failures (crack/self-loose/wear/fatigue) on the older H80T011XXW torque tube? especially during hardcore 3D flights?

2. Has anyone experienced failure/problems on the new torque tube?

Many thanks in advance.
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Old 12-23-2016, 07:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you are able to purchase the newer version then go for that, there could potentially be an issue with the older version. Not everyone was able to break it but it was possible. I haven't heard of any issues with the new version.
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Old 12-24-2016, 12:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Go with the new version. Here's an email from Collin Bell.


"The torque tube ends have screwed tighter into the tube over time, causing the aluminum to bulge out, consequently shortening the torque tube. There are a few ways to fix it.

What I have done is sleeved the torque tube about 5mm either side of the seam (between the drive coupler, and the actual aluminum shaft). With another slightly thicker aluminum tube. It fits tightly over the existing one, and I CA glue it in place. This way the tube can not be bulged out under torque.

The other option is to drill the tube about 5mm back from the seam, and pin it with a small nut and bolt. That will keep the threaded portion from crumpling the tube over time.

What I used to do with my old raptors was wrap the problem area with cotton thread and then soak it in CA glue. I have not tried this on the T-rex, and it might work as well.

I hope this helps.

Colin"

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Old 12-24-2016, 12:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I was looking for the actual explanation from Colin on it as well, however I couldn't locate it.

So as stated, if you currently have the older version you can modify it so it doesn't happen however if you haven't purchased one yet, go with the updated version.

Good luck!
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Old 12-24-2016, 07:35 AM   #5 (permalink)
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many thanks to nynextel88 and shawnlh. I get your points. Aluminum stretching is inevitable on the older trex800 torque tube design, leading to stripping eventually.

I ordered two of the improved version from a local Chinese distributor. I will post comparison pics once I receive them.

Merry Christmas to you all.
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Old 12-28-2016, 09:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hi all, this is the direct comparison between the old and the new torque tube. They have the exact same overall length.

So the "belted" tip is the only difference as far as I can tell. The belt does feel like a good protection against the aluminum tube from expanding and loosening.

One problem as you can imagine, the two supporting bearings that came with the torque tube are not easily replaceable now that the tip has a belt blocking the removal. Also the tolerence between the bearings and the aluminum tube is a bit excessive. So I applied a thin layer of epoxy glue the tube where the bearings would sit and then slide the bearings into location. Of course be careful not the let any glue get inside the bearings.





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Old 03-12-2017, 01:01 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Yesterday I crashed my Trex 800Pro due to torque tube failour.
I did hard-stop when going fast forward and the tail just came loose.
I leveled it up inverted, cut of motor and landed on the head.
It was old version of torque tube.
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Old 03-12-2017, 06:52 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amphibia View Post
One problem as you can imagine, the two supporting bearings that came with the torque tube are not easily replaceable now that the tip has a belt blocking the removal.
The bearings can still be removed. All you do is push the collar off the end of the TT. It comes off reasonably easily, a little heat will help if it doesnt want to move.

The TT itself is exactly the same, the only difference is the addition of the push-fit collars.
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Old 03-12-2017, 03:43 PM   #9 (permalink)
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sad to read Derclown. my fleet currently in winter maintenance and found my 700n torque tube puff.near rear end so i replace it before crash. my 800 still ok only 60 flight on it
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Old 03-13-2017, 03:38 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well, the old TT version was quite strong, as I had 120 flights with no issues til my very first crash with 800Pro and I was pushing it kinda hard with hard-stops and etc...
After that I had crash and replaced whole boom with same old version TT.
After that I hit it again, light crash, but no need to replace the boom or TT, it was intact, so I left it "as is" when I was doing the repair. And couple days ago the TT failed (it was just very first flight after last crash that I didin't replaced the TT).

And found this

I believe, I weld my next TT with TIG.
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