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Main Forum - Helicopter Talk R/C Helicopters and the people who fly them. VENDOR TOPICS DO NOT GO HERE. Full Scale Heli threads go in OT please |
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#61 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Central Scotland
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MB
__________________
Nano CPX x 3, mCPX-BL x 3,130X, 180CFX, Lynx 450X-L, T-Rex 250 DFC, T-Rex 450L, T-Rex 500, KDS Chase 360, SAB G380, G500 Spt, BT650, BT700-T, BT700 Spt, XLP520 "More the Knowledge Lesser the Ego, Lesser the Knowledge More the Ego" Albert Einstein |
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#62 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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can you explain how one would do such a voltage drop test? sounds like a great way to verify that a crimp is acceptable before we take flight Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#63 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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![]() this was a test crimp I did with the PA-09 and the Hansen female pins on a futaba servo.
black wire is my crimp red wire is factory i would like to know where to buy those futaba style terminals where the contact points are left and right instead of top to bottom ![]() ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#65 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2014
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![]() I got a good pair from Mac Tools. Work on trucks all day so it's very useful for crimping all kinds of connector pins.
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#66 (permalink) | |
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Thread Starter
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
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If you want something similar check out Molex-SL, the connector box has two contacts that grip the male pin form the sides. Hansen's "latching polarized connectors" are actually Molex SL. They don't have the three position non polarized housing but they can be found on Digikey. They use 2.54mm spacing and are fully compatible with 0.1 pin headers. Three position plain housing here: https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...2801-ND/115005 Last edited by Atomic Skull; 04-24-2017 at 09:01 AM.. |
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#67 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Atlanta
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![]() "can you explain how one would do such a voltage drop test? sounds like a great way to verify that a crimp is acceptable before we take flight" = blue92ehsi
Well sure. Just run say 2.5 Amps through a connector pin pair. Take a small sewing needle and poke through the insulation on each side. Connect a VOM on the millivolt scale. Also try an equal distance of plain wire. This give you the insertion loss - connectors in line vs. just wire. To get 2.5 Amps use your charger set to 2.5 Amps and insert the test pins in line with a battery lead. Could use a regulated lab power supply if you have one but everyone has a charger. Ohm's law V=IR. Example, you run 2.5 Amps through a pin pair and measure 10 millivolts drop. Then the crimp/pin resistance is R=V/I = 0.010/2.5 = 0.004 Ohms or 4 milliohms - good. You can do just a single crimp by touching the needles on each side of the crimp - say end of pin and one in the wire. Ace Dude, this is the same as bridge IR testing. |
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#68 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Apr 2013
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![]() how would one do this to test a crimp on a servo? can't hook a charger to that? i could plug the servo in to the fbl unit and measure voltage on the power wire but not on the ground wire and signal wire
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#69 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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![]() I worked at a company that used a lot of crimp connectors. They tested them with a strain gauge to see that it could withstand a certain pull force.
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#70 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Atlanta
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![]() You can test a few dozen scrap crimps and find out how you are doing. Factory crimps are not tested. I would be surprised if they plugged in each servo to see if it worked.
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#71 (permalink) |
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Thread Starter
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
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![]() Usually what they do with commercial electronics is pull samples from each batch for testing to make sure the equipment isn't malfunctioning. In a production environment you aren't supposed to be using these hand tools, they have machines that turn out thousands of crimps per hour. You give it a bandolier of terminals and a spool of wire flip the switch and it starts crimping away. Servo manufacturers aren't crimping the leads themselves they are just buying premade crimps in bulk.
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#72 (permalink) | |
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Thread Starter
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
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Overall this connector family seems superior to Mini-PV for our application, there even seems to be reasonably priced budget tools specifically designed for it. The only problem would be the shroud around the male connector, on the Molex SL it just has bare male pins in the same housing. However the three position non polarized housing might fit in a Futaba type or universal shroud (not a JR type though due to the bevels at the corners) The housing also seems to be slightly longer than the Mini-PV one though I can't be sure. It's designed to mate with 0.1 pin strips though so it should work. Last edited by Atomic Skull; 04-25-2017 at 12:18 AM.. |
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#73 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Ridgecrest, CA
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__________________
Citizen 61 |
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#74 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
Join Date: Sep 2004
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50-57-9003 is part of the Molex SL family. With all the hassle of finding contacts, housings, and crimp tools that work together I'd probably just pick a known system (e.g., Molex SL) with readily available components and stick with it. I have some genuine Anderson Power crimp tools I purchased 12+ years ago. They were expensive, but no more guessing or worrying about finding the right contacts/housings, and every crimp comes out perfect. Shame many of these smaller contacts don't support 20AWG. |
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#75 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Atlanta
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![]() It's probably because the header pins are not up to 20 AWG. As above, this pin is obsolete for our application. Some aftermarket manufacturers (with hand crimps) do put 20 AWG in these pins - worst crimps I have ever seen.
A bad crimp at the end of 20AWG is not better than 22AWG with a proper crimp. |
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#76 (permalink) | |
Registered Users
Thread Starter
![]() Join Date: Dec 2011
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https://www.digikey.com/products/en?...41-000LF&v=609 https://www.digikey.com/products/en?...33-000LF&v=609 I have no idea how you are supposed to get an 18AWG wire into a DuPont housing when a 20AWG barely fits but there is an official tool and terminals for it at least. Realistically the wire isn't the bottleneck when it comes to current it's the crimp terminal. Last edited by Atomic Skull; 04-26-2017 at 12:43 AM.. |
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#77 (permalink) |
Registered Users
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Atlanta
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![]() Some aftermarket battery guys do 18 AWG. Atomic, are any of these crimpers intended for solid wire ?
Atomic has provided a long list of crimpers to look for used. If anyone is really interested in making their own, buy one of these. You have to buy pins and shells that go together! If anyone ever gets around to testing some Hansen Hobbies crimps, I am sure they will be seriously disappointed. |
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#78 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Nov 2015
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![]() As I've posted more than once, the Hansen (deluxe) crimper is fine. Plenty of people use them and like them just fine. They were the de-facto recommended crimpers here in the past. And, again, just because something that may be better comes along, that does not negate the goodness/effectiveness of anything else that was in use before it was "discovered". I've done many crimps with my Hansen crimper and have never had one fail, nor have I been "disappointed". If peoples' crimps are too loose or whatever because they didn't adjust it, then that's on them, not the crimper.
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#79 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Sep 2004
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