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Old 03-09-2017, 08:31 PM   #221 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dunkonu23 View Post
I have just been informed that kits currently being shipped have replacement bearings for the idler pulleys and swash driver links replaced at the factory. This means you will not have to replace any bearings.

Scott
Does this mean kits that are now shipping to distributors from factory? Or kits being shipped from experiencerc as of now? Just ordered my kit on 3/8 will have it tomorrow.
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Old 03-09-2017, 10:21 PM   #222 (permalink)
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Does this mean kits that are now shipping to distributors from factory? Or kits being shipped from experiencerc as of now? Just ordered my kit on 3/8 will have it tomorrow.
All kits, regardless of dealer. ExperienceRC is the distributor and dealer for North America.

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Old 03-11-2017, 10:33 AM   #223 (permalink)
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Default Link Sizes

Link sizes.

Link sizes in all models, regardless of brand are merely recommendations. Remember, servo brand, and placement of servos in the frame all can affect link lengths. Manufacturers cannot possible test all available servos, so they typically pick one brand and design around that brand. For the EXO that brand appears to be MKS.

Remember, servo to swash link lengths affect swash driver link lengths, as well. For example, on my model, you may see more link rod visible on my swash driver links. This is solely because of my servo placement in the servo mount. It is normal and does not affect performance of the model at all.

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Old 03-19-2017, 10:20 PM   #224 (permalink)
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Hi,
From what I read, everyone, if not,almost everyone is installing the servos along with the build. Is it okay to install servos and FBL later after the eXo is complete?
Thank you.
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:26 AM   #225 (permalink)
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Hi,
From what I read, everyone, if not,almost everyone is installing the servos along with the build. Is it okay to install servos and FBL later after the eXo is complete?
Thank you.
It's fine as long as you center the servos and install the horns prior to installing the servos in the monocoque and tail servo mount. The angle of the servos in the monocoque and orientation of the tail servo will probably prevent you from putting the screw to hold the horns in place.

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Old 03-20-2017, 10:01 AM   #226 (permalink)
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Install servos before your motor. Otherwise yes, no problem to install them later.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:05 AM   #227 (permalink)
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If you have to swap servo arms after the ship is assembled, this helps spectacularly:

http://www.jrpropo.com/english/produ...db_flg=eng_db1

I did have to shave an mm or two from the appropriates sized one to get to the bolt on the two front cyclic servos.
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:54 PM   #228 (permalink)
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How is the space to install a BEC and use a full size RX on it?
I have ordered a Servoking BullBEC and an AR7700 RX.
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:59 PM   #229 (permalink)
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Mr.Andersen,

"How is the space to install a BEC and use a full size RX on it?"

BEC's should always be mounted externally in order to get airflow over them.

This is how I mounted my Western Robotics Hercules Super Mini BEC G2 (on the outside of the left side frame, just behind the landing gear):



I have full-sized receivers on both of my eXo's as well. There is space for a full-sized receiver, opposite the rudder servo inside of the monocoque frame (easily hidden from view). If your receiver is of the single line type (I use JR's X-Bus) it will help minimize the amount of wiring to be hidden. I purchased extra gyro mounts to hide the receivers. The second gyro mounts also double as antenna mounts:



(The BEC is again visible in the lower right side of the photograph)
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Old 03-20-2017, 06:09 PM   #230 (permalink)
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If cooling or airflow is not an issue for your BEC, you can place it behind the ESC in the void between the monocoque and the inner frame halves. Otherwise, if your receiver isn't mounted in the space between the tail servo and the monocoque, it can go there.

Scott
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Old 05-13-2017, 08:03 AM   #231 (permalink)
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Have anyone else had problems with idler pulleys run notchy when tightened down?
On mine all of them was notchy and two of them was that way on the Warp 360.
On the Warp i did order new pulleys and it solved it but on these one i have modifyed the pullesy so the bearings donīt get pinched when tightening down the bolts.
It appeares either the spacers inside the pulleys are to short ore the pulleys themself are to wide.
My solution was to drill down the holes for the bearings with an oversized drillbit to seat the bearings into the pulleys, and that solved the problem.
I did the same thing to boughs sides of the pulley to seat the bearings evenly.
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Old 05-13-2017, 09:45 AM   #232 (permalink)
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No, I did not have the problem. But it has been stated to not crank down on the screws for the idler pulleys and let thread locker do its job. That said, I would have simply put a tiny washer (82-3502) on either side of the pulley so the bevel in the spacers rides on the washer instead of the inner race of the bearing. I would have not modified the pulley.

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Old 05-13-2017, 09:49 AM   #233 (permalink)
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Of cource that would have worked but did not consider it but done is done.
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:20 AM   #234 (permalink)
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I had to add shims to a couple of the between-bearing spacers before I could tighten some pulleys down. Tamiya makes a 3mm shim kit, #53585, Yokomo a 2.5mm kit YOKZC-S25. I've never found a good 2mm kit with thin shims, Lynx makes 0.5 thick 2mm shims.
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Old 05-21-2017, 12:56 PM   #235 (permalink)
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As the building progress slowly creeps forward i have made myself a motor spacer to raice the motor and 6 servo spacers becouse i use RJX servos with the 6 armed star horn.
The reason i made the motor spcer is mainly becouse the HS4035-500 motor im using get the pinion to low becouse the shaft is shanked from 8mm to 6mm at the end of the motor and i donīt like the idea of grinding the shank of the shaft so instead i raice the motor.
The other reason is to prevent the bolts from hititng the motor windings as one of the motor holes are only 4,5mm deep.
With the spacer the bolts only reached 3,5mm deep.
The servo and motor spacers are made form the same slice of aluminum and the servo spacers are made with a grinder and hand files while the motor mount is made with a hole saw, drill and hand files.
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Old 05-21-2017, 02:14 PM   #236 (permalink)
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Excellent mod... I myself also prefer using aluminum spacers... Added bonus is that the spacer acts as a heatsink. On my 7HVU and Chronos I even added thermal paste between the spacers motor mount and motor to aid in heat transfer.
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Old 06-13-2017, 06:18 PM   #237 (permalink)
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Here we tension the tail belt. This important and there are many schools of thought. Some like their belts really tight. Some like them just loose enough so the belt does not hop teeth on the pulley. I go for middle of the road tightness.

Let's do it!



The first thing to do is lay the helicopter on its side, then one by one remove, clean, and using...



...blue thread lock on the screws...



...reinstall all four, one at a time. Tighten each screw until it seats, then one quarter turn beyond. This will put some tension on the clamps so they hold the boom semi tight; you still need to be able to pull the boom out and have it stay in place!

In my helicopter, the front boom clamp was tight from the factory. It held the boom in place all on its own.



Next, hold the helicopter with one hand and with your other hand, grasp the boom and pull it to the rear. If the boom slides back, put one quarter of a turn of tightness on the rear boom clamp screws. Repeat until the boom stays in place. Check tension as follows.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F4RkmhBz7Gw

Here, I am lightly--very lightly--pressing on the tail drive belt. Note its movement. Under very light pressing, the belt will move about 3-5mm inward (deflection).

Tighter belt tension will produce less deflection. Looser belt tension will produce more deflection.



Once you have achieved your desired deflection, evenly tighten all boom clamp screws. I tighten in 1/4 turn increments.

A word about overly tight belts. Too tight is not good. It will put stress on the tail pulley and may cause premature wearing of the bearings in the tail idler pulley. This applies to the main drive belt, as well.

A word about overly loose belts. Too loose may cause the belt to jump teeth. This is not good. It can cause a crash. Additionally, a belt flopping around may come in contact with the tail pitch lever! This may cause the belt to wear out prematurely.

So, we have out belts tensioned, now what?



The battery tray. Might as well, remove one clip screw at a time...



Clean the screw with solvent. Use blue thread locker to reinstall the screw. Repeat for the other screw.

You can test fit the battery tray now. If it's too tight in the tongues of the ESC tray, you can fix that by lightly filing the slots until the battery try fits all the way into the slots and the retaining clip snaps through the clip hole.

With the exception of the canopy, this is about it for assembly of the kit.

I have built a lot of helicopters from a lot of manufacturers, but this was an easy, quick build. The design is revolutionary. Fit and finish of parts was excellent! I am proud to say that the EXO is THE kit to have this year!

Next, a question was asked about oiling. Let's take care of that, now.



Flip the helicopter upside down, rest it on the main grips which have aligned perpendicular to the monocoque.



With the battery tray removed, you can reach the lower motor bearing by using the long needle inserted through the cutout in the lower frame behind the motor mount/counter bearing.

That's it for today.

Next, we start electronics installation!

Scott
can you please post a pic of how far in your boom is?
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Old 06-14-2017, 08:19 AM   #238 (permalink)
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can you please post a pic of how far in your boom is?
I'll get it later today.

Scott
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