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Old 06-18-2017, 01:18 AM   #101 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3D Dave View Post
That said, I'm also curious what you are using now instead of the Hansen sold tool.
Looks like he uses every crimper available and then some https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...6&postcount=86
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Old 06-18-2017, 02:45 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mike680 View Post
What do you use now that you decided was better than the Hansen since you speak of using it as being in the past?
I've settled on;

Berg/DuPont HT-95 for Female contacts up to 22AWG
Berg/DuPont HT-102 for Male contacts up to 22AWG
Berg/DuPont HT-72 for Male and Female on 20AWG which I rarely work with.

Also I've figured out that when servo manufactures say they use 20AWG wire for their leads, they are stretching the truth. All servos that I have seen use 22AWG wire. In fact 20AWG wire is so large that it is difficult to get the wires to fit into the housings and it looks funny when you do.

A good explanation about connectors and wire sizes can be found here
http://hansenhobbies.com/products/co...Connectors.pdf
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Old 06-18-2017, 10:21 AM   #103 (permalink)
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Glenn;

Futaba and JR 22 AWG HD wire is smaller than real AWG 22 wire. I am sure it is actually metric. They always round up. I have a hundred feet of red, black, yellow Alpha 22 AWG. Bigger than any Futaba HD I have laying around.

I remember when servos used 26 AWG. Of course stalled they drew 500 mA. That's all the transistors would take.

Good wire size chart:

https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
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Old 06-18-2017, 12:03 PM   #104 (permalink)
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I remember those days too.

And if you wanted to reverse a servo, you had to buy a backwards servo.

It was all too expensive for me back then anyway.
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Old 06-18-2017, 01:20 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Goodlett View Post
I've settled on;

Berg/DuPont HT-95 for Female contacts up to 22AWG
Berg/DuPont HT-102 for Male contacts up to 22AWG
Berg/DuPont HT-72 for Male and Female on 20AWG which I rarely work with.

Also I've figured out that when servo manufactures say they use 20AWG wire for their leads, they are stretching the truth. All servos that I have seen use 22AWG wire. In fact 20AWG wire is so large that it is difficult to get the wires to fit into the housings and it looks funny when you do.

A good explanation about connectors and wire sizes can be found here
http://hansenhobbies.com/products/co...Connectors.pdf
So what makes the Berg/DuPont HT-95 and HT-102 better than the Hansen sold crimper?

I was thinking about getting the Hansen kit with the Deluxe crimper and wire strippers.

Thanks for the link with explanations.

-Dave
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Old 06-18-2017, 01:59 PM   #106 (permalink)
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The trouble is that from everything I've read so far you need to match crimper with connector pins. And from my experience connectors pins to connectors. So without specifying all three it can be misleading.
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Old 06-18-2017, 02:14 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3D Dave View Post
So what makes the Berg/DuPont HT-95 and HT-102 better than the Hansen sold crimper?

I was thinking about getting the Hansen kit with the Deluxe crimper and wire strippers.

Thanks for the link with explanations.

-Dave
The Berg/DuPont crimpers make a better looking crimp (which may or may not be stronger) that deforms the contact less making it easier to insert into the housing. But, most importantly, they make perfect crimps every time that you can't screw up.

With the Hansen crimpers, I'd get the wire to length and get two contacts crimped on and screw up the third wire with stray strands or something. So, I'd then cut them all off and start again finally getting everything crimped then come to find out I shortened the wire too much and then start completely over. I guess I'm pretty anal about the wiring.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not "bad mouthing" the Hansen crimpers. They will work with practice and are a good value. However, they just can't compete with a tool that originally cost over a grand and made for industrial work.
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Old 06-18-2017, 04:49 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3D Dave View Post
So what makes the Berg/DuPont HT-95 and HT-102 better than the Hansen sold crimper?

I was thinking about getting the Hansen kit with the Deluxe crimper and wire strippers.

Thanks for the link with explanations.

-Dave
I've used the Hansen crimpers a lot and as Glen says they work pretty well. Assessing depth of insertion of the wire into the connector (when it's mounted ready to go in the crimpers) takes practice and judgement - too much and you have bare wires over lapping the end of the crimp - too little and the 'cord hold' wings are onto bare wire. The 3 rather than 0 shape of the Hansen die also tends to make the cord hold wings pierce into rather than wrap around the insulation.
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Old 06-18-2017, 06:21 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3D Dave View Post
So what makes the Berg/DuPont HT-95 and HT-102 better than the Hansen sold crimper?
They are the official factory tool for that terminal type and the conductor crimp is tighter (it produces a bellmouth around the crimp where the wires enter the terminal which prevents the metal from cutting into the strands) The Hansen tool is a generic double D crimper which works but it's not ideal.

Apparently the Hozen P-706 and P-707 multi crimpers works well with Mini-PV terminals, it has the round crimp die that works well with the insulation crimp. Search for "Hozen" in the commends on this page the poster gives which dies to use for Mini-PV terminals..

http://tech.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/

It's not cheap though around $70 which is about what a use HT-95 would go for.
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Old 06-18-2017, 06:37 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Not all JR leads use the TYU type housings and terminals. At some point they switched (not sure if they switched from them or to them). I had two identical bagged JR servo leads laying around (JRPA124) and decided to check the terminals. On one I found the TYU type terminals (which Xpert, KST, Spektrum etc. use except these are made by some other company) and on the other I found actual genuine FCI Amphenol Mini-PV terminals.



First of all, the terminal is made in two pieces, note the contact area is a separate "leaf spring". The insulation crimp is also more robust and secure and the insertion force is higher than pretty much any servo plug I've ever encountered.

The housing is not compatible with the common Mini-PV knockoffs (Hansen etc.), the latch is in the wrong place so you'd need to buy genuine housings and terminals if you wanted to use them.

It's also noteworthy that the JR Mini-PV lead seems to have been made with official factory tooling (likely on one of the automated machines though not the hand tool)
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Old 06-18-2017, 07:11 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercuriell View Post
I've used the Hansen crimpers a lot and as Glen says they work pretty well. Assessing depth of insertion of the wire into the connector (when it's mounted ready to go in the crimpers) takes practice and judgement - too much and you have bare wires over lapping the end of the crimp - too little and the 'cord hold' wings are onto bare wire.
That's why I lay the wire in the pin, line things up and gently "crimp" the insulation wings/tabs with needle nose pliers to hold the wire alignment in place when inserting into the crimper. Works perfectly every time.

Quote:
The 3 rather than 0 shape of the Hansen die also tends to make the cord hold wings pierce into rather than wrap around the insulation.
I've never ever had a problem with one of my crimps using the Hansen and I know I've done well over a hundred by now. They all come out looking good.
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Old 06-18-2017, 09:15 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike680 View Post
That's why I lay the wire in the pin, line things up and gently "crimp" the insulation wings/tabs with needle nose pliers to hold the wire alignment in place when inserting into the crimper. Works perfectly every time.



I've never ever had a problem with one of my crimps using the Hansen and I know I've done well over a hundred by now. They all come out looking good.
Look at the conductor crimp on the Hansen vs the factory crimpers. The factory crimp is much tighter. If you try to crimp them that tightly with the Hansen crimpers it will bend the terminal and possibly cut through the strands. The factory tool forms the opening to the conductor crimp barrel into a bellmouth to prevent the terminal from cutting into the strands.
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Old 06-18-2017, 11:51 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercuriell View Post

Great thread Anyone care to summate best way to go for someone starting out ? Which crimper/terminal/housing for male/female 22-24 swg wire?
I would also appreciate a response to this great question and if I may ask how do the Hobbyking crimping tool(lol it was mentioned very early in the thread) and JST-SH Servo Plug Set (JR) Gold Plated stack up against the rest, especially in regards to average cash strapped modeler?
Great thread-Thank you
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Old 06-19-2017, 03:15 AM   #114 (permalink)
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There's a factory video on the Hozen in use - 2 stage crimp and doesnt look as nice as the HT series ....

P-706 圧着工具(オープンバレル端子用) (0 min 54 sec)
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Old 06-19-2017, 05:45 AM   #115 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thtasher View Post
I would also appreciate a response to this great question and if I may ask how do the Hobbyking crimping tool(lol it was mentioned very early in the thread) and JST-SH Servo Plug Set (JR) Gold Plated stack up against the rest
Hobbyking has those terminals mislabeled this is a JST-SH connector:



What they actually are is common Mini-PV knockoffs, quality is average and quite acceptable.

Genuine FCI Amphenol Mini-PV connectors are quite rare in RC stuff, the only place I have ever seen them is on that JR servo lead I posted previously. They are quite expensive compared to the knockoffs, around 30 cents per terminal and the housings are around $1 each.
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Old 06-19-2017, 05:58 AM   #116 (permalink)
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Thanks Atomic Skull but these were the plugs I was referring to.
Again Thank you for the informative thread.
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:45 AM   #117 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
Look at the conductor crimp on the Hansen vs the factory crimpers. The factory crimp is much tighter. If you try to crimp them that tightly with the Hansen crimpers it will bend the terminal and possibly cut through the strands. The factory tool forms the opening to the conductor crimp barrel into a bellmouth to prevent the terminal from cutting into the strands.
Not trying to be facetious but what would be the problem if the the terminal cuts through the strand slightly since each connector is isolated from each other once in the individual sleeves? Am I missing something?
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Old 06-19-2017, 06:38 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thtasher View Post
Thanks Atomic Skull but these were the plugs I was referring to.
Again Thank you for the informative thread.

I know, I'm saying those are *not* JST-SH connectors they are knockoff Mini-PVs. JST-SH is the micro connector used on a lot of ultralight receivers.
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Old 06-19-2017, 06:42 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Puttputt maru View Post
Not trying to be facetious but what would be the problem if the the terminal cuts through the strand slightly since each connector is isolated from each other once in the individual sleeves? Am I missing something?

If the terminal starts cutting into the strands of the conductor then you have a compromised crimp that could eventually fail.
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:02 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
Look at the conductor crimp on the Hansen vs the factory crimpers. The factory crimp is much tighter. If you try to crimp them that tightly with the Hansen crimpers it will bend the terminal and possibly cut through the strands. The factory tool forms the opening to the conductor crimp barrel into a bellmouth to prevent the terminal from cutting into the strands.
Yet the deluxe Hansen one used to be THE crimper to have. Everyone who had one loved it. If Hansen crimps were failing on even a semi-regular basis, we'd have been hearing about it all along. It didn't suddenly stop working well simply because something newer and, maybe, better came out. Remember, slave labor in overseas sweatshops make these crimps. None of them are going to care one iota what one of us would for our machines, yet these are just fine? I'll trust mine over a factory crimp job like that any day. Also, it seems like a lot of people don't realize the Hansen is adjustable. Practice accordingly before crimping for something critical.
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