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Electric Motors Winding and Repair Electric Motors Winding and Repair Discussion


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Old 07-19-2017, 02:21 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1BOHO View Post
I cannot tell from the photo but have the ball bearings been removed yet? To keep from damaging the stator don't put it in a straight vice without some type of soft jaw as a vice has enough strength to take the stator out of round.
Fashion yourself a soft jaw with a profile like my attachment of wood as thick as the stators length. Use the stator as a template to cut the appropriate sized hole. Use this soft jaw you created in between your vice jaws to hold the stator. The combination of heat and cold will eventually break the bond. Holding the stator in the vice like this should allow you to tap the stator out with a dowel that has an OD just a bit smaller that the bearings OD.

If you want to try to twist the stator use a flat piece of bar stock about 36 cm long and create a breaking bar to bolt to the carrier using the motor mount screw locations. The vice with the soft jaws will still serve the purpose of holding the stator securely while you apply twisting pressure.

Once you break the initial bond by which ever means you should be able to tap the carrier out of the stator fairly easily.

Patience is a virtue.
1BOHO of course i wouldnt put the stator straight on the vice.I bolted the motor mount on the motor and clamped the mount on the vice.I wraped the stator in 2 towels and tried twisting it.Although it sounded like tiny crystals cracking,the stator didnt move.I will make the soft jaws you are suggesting because i cant hammer the carrier with the stator in my hand...

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Originally Posted by sutty View Post
Sorry Giorgos, didn't see your question because I fell asleep, and have been very busy today since first thing. I can't remember what temperature, but if you search the forum, the cold heat cycle trick is mentioned a number of times.

It would need to be more than 60 though, because motors often run hotter than that anyway, so I could imagine they would be resistant to 60. That having been said, even at 60 it will be somewhat softened.

If you can't find mention of the temperature, I'll have a good search when I have a bit more time.
No worries sutty,i m not in a hurry anyway!I will try heating the stator with a heatgun and cooling the carrier with spray tomorrow.I hope that works...
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Old 07-19-2017, 03:11 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Stator removing tricks and tools
(Re)winding and building motors, tips & tricks, checks & tests - RCG (sticky)
→ opening post
→ 5. Disassembly & old winding removal

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Old 07-21-2017, 04:08 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Ok,i made wooden jaws,i heated it,i ve frozen it,i tried everything!It just wont move no matter what!the top of the stator is starting to deform from the hammering even with wooden dowels!

I m about to call it and get another motor
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Old 07-22-2017, 09:15 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Last update.Motor is going to the trash can.I m done with it
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Old 07-22-2017, 12:11 PM   #25 (permalink)
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That's too bad. It appears to be far from non redeemable. U could have tried a steel dowel that wont absorb the shock and transferred it straight to the stator.
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Old 07-22-2017, 01:43 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Sorry to hear it was a fail. I was really hoping you would have good luck with your first rewind.

In general I never hammer anything, usually does not end well. I always use a press. I just use my drill press to press all things heli related. Nothing has ever been so stuck the drill press couldn't put out the force to get it.

It is possible to rewind a motor without removing the stator from the housing. I've done a few small motors that way, but haven't tried it on a bigger motor like that. Have to use multi-strand wire though, the stator must be removed from the housing to use heavy single strand.

I'd say try again with another motor. The problem is you can't find the right Kv, yeah? Just need to find a new one with the correct physical dimensions. That motor looked kind of old and ragged anyway. I understand you got that heli used? You don't know, may have been overheated and a motor only has to be overheated once to degrade or kill it (due to demagnetization).
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Old 07-23-2017, 12:32 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Can't say you didn't try! Maybe pick up a motor kit non wound so you can choose your own kv? Scorpion does some but not sure on size you need vs available.
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Old 07-23-2017, 10:33 AM   #28 (permalink)
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If you're really going to throw it away send it to me. I'll pay the shipping and rewind it. The damage I see in the photos appears to be superficial.
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Old 07-23-2017, 01:03 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raptorapture View Post
... Scorpion does some but not sure on size you need vs available.
Scorpion manufacturer
www.scorpionsystem.com/catalog

Vriendelijke groeten Ron
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Old 09-01-2017, 12:11 PM   #30 (permalink)
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The way to do it:
-no clamping of the stator, only hold it by hand. Any form of clamping really increases risk of deforming the stator. So hold it in your hand. I use a rubber glove for more grip and to protect my fingers just in case I miss with the hammer.
-Cool the motor in the freezer, with the driving rod already in place. That minimizes warm up time when you take the motor out. The cooler the better. It works for 99% of the motors. I only used liquid nitrogen once for a very stubborn motor. Do NOT heat: the aluminium of the carrier will expand further than the stator sheets, making the connection only stronger. So cooling is the way to go.
-Use a good fitting steel insert onto the bearing seat, preferably with a protrusion that also fits further down into the carrier. This stabilizes the rod and makes the operation more secure. No wood or aluminium: that is WAY too soft and will not conduct the hammer shock waves into the carrier as well.
-Put the glove on, and with hammer in the other hand open the fridge. Hammer away immediately. Do waste time.
-The first hammer blows are key: if you strike it in a wimpy manner the bearing seat will compress and deform/expand before the bond breaks loose. This tightens the bond between carrier and stator. So hammer as hard as you can/dare. Also hammer size should be for normal nails, not the tiny versions.
-As soon as there is the tiniest shift of the carrier you know it is going to succeed.

With this there is no risk of damaging the stator unless you badly miss with the hammer. You could prevent that by putting a wooden plate with a hole it in over the motor but I never do that.
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Old 09-29-2017, 11:26 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Desmontado del Estator.

Aeromodelismo Electrico de R.C.: Rebobinando un motor
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Last edited by Manuel V; 09-29-2017 at 11:52 PM..
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