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Old 03-02-2017, 04:45 AM   #41 (permalink)
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I am one of the guys who sait it is fine. I shall revisit the tail pushrod. I am working on my 700X soon anyways so I might as well redo this to be on the safe side.
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Old 03-07-2017, 06:25 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAJ1C View Post
Sorry just picked this up the above links are correct go for the Long 22mm version and a short ball link. I drilled out the standard link but see they do a M3 version stock version now as well.
This is the correct ?

http://www.quickuk.eu/products/3678/..._h2031-m3.html

Thanks in advance
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Old 03-08-2017, 02:55 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by msallua View Post
This is the correct ?

http://www.quickuk.eu/products/3678/..._h2031-m3.html

Thanks in advance
Yes but they are a very tight fit on the Align balls, so you either need to ream the links or use the matching quick UK balls.

If you don't already have the Quick UK links then the quickest/easiest solution IMHO is to remove and re-position the screwed rod like I described in the first post, but either way works so your call.
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:06 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Well I couldn't keep questioning my tail rod so I went ahead and pulled the heat gun out and lengthened the threaded rods. I feel much better now with the thread engagement Grumpy thanks again for pointing this out.. Align needs to address this issue..

Now I get to wait another 2 months to fly it with this crazy weather
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Old 03-13-2017, 08:16 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Mine seems to hold firm without lengthening the rod but since others seem to have the problem too it got me nervous.

I did a ghetto mod. I simply put a little bit of epoxy between rod and ballpan.
Not so much that I can't separate it anymore but enough that it holds very well. Not as elegant as Grumpy's solution but I think it should be good considering it seemed to hold strong without.
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Old 03-15-2017, 11:04 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Maybe, but Epoxy isn't super strong. I tried epoxying the plastic tail pulley to the pin through the shaft on my Protos 500 once, lasted about 2 flights.
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Old 03-15-2017, 05:40 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Yeah it's holding well without. The epoxy is there too add a little. I would never trust it holding simply because of that.
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:25 PM   #48 (permalink)
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try loctite hysol 9463 , super strong epoxy , aircraft grade ...
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Old 03-15-2017, 10:36 PM   #49 (permalink)
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JB weld works great.. I use it on all my machine tail rods
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Old 03-16-2017, 01:56 AM   #50 (permalink)
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If you are modifying the rod and re-gluing the threaded part into the tube then any type of epoxy will do fine. Super high strength (and high cost) epoxy really isn't necessary, standard 5 minute epoxy does just fine. Whats more important is making sure both the hole in the rod and the threaded part are properly cleaned free from the old glue residue (no epoxy will work on contaminated/dirty surfaces) and roughing up the rod to key the epoxy cant do any harm either though as it's threaded both ends then it's well 'keyed' anyway.

I dont think epoxy of any type will help significantly with the security of the threaded rod into the link though. What you need to do to fix that is increase the length of engagement either by lengthening the rod or using a longer link.
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Old 03-16-2017, 02:14 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Yeah it's holding well without. The epoxy is there too add a little. I would never trust it holding simply because of that.
Sounds like you did not lengthen the threaded rods, which is the purpose.. it sounds like you Just added expoxy to the end caps??
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Old 03-16-2017, 05:44 AM   #52 (permalink)
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Sounds like you did not lengthen the threaded rods, which is the purpose.. it sounds like you Just added expoxy to the end caps??
Yep that is correct. That being said the rod was not that short compared to what grumpy showed us. Mine has more thread into the ballpan (yes I know that the rod has no windings at the tip). It holds well and I used a lot of force to it to test if it holds. I put a dip of epoxy between rod and ballpan for good measure just to be sure.
That being said: all that holds the carbon control rod onto the metal is epoxy. If epoxy wouldn't be enough every lenghened control rod would fail there since it is just glued in!

My theory is that these control rods get glued together pretty sloppy.
Maybe we should measure ours and compare. I am quite sure that they are not the smae lengh consistantly.
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Old 03-16-2017, 05:53 AM   #53 (permalink)
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The glue is not the problem.. to tell you the truth I had to use a good amount of heat to take the threaded rod out so it is glued in there very good from the factory.. I thought mine was fine as well until I took another look at it..Do whatever makes you feel more comfortable.. too bad I can't fly with this shitty NJ weather
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Old 03-16-2017, 06:00 AM   #54 (permalink)
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The glue is not the problem.. to tell you the truth I had to use a good amount of heat to take the threaded rod out so it is glued in there very good from the factory.. I thought mine was fine as well until I took another look at it..Do whatever makes you feel more comfortable.. too bad I can't fly with this shitty NJ weather
Bead weather on the way too. I have another flying day today though.
About being comfortable: I am pretty comfortable. The ballpan was holding well and now it would have to not only work itself out from the windings but also break open my epoxy wich is glued solidly to the pan and the rod.
Not saying it is impossible but it feels pretty damn solid.

If not I promise to post a picture of the wreck so people know it was a bad idea.
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Old 03-16-2017, 07:19 AM   #55 (permalink)
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There is some variation in the length of the outstand of the threaded parts. I've built two 700X' and the rod on one was very slightly longer than the other. Neither was enough to make me feel comfortable though. Perhaps other rods are longer than either of the two I used?

Personally I'd be looking to have about 5mm (minimum) positive thread engagement to make me feel happy. I doubt very much any of the standard rods will give me that.

As for the epoxy.... The screwed metal rod is glued (not threaded) into the carbon. Obviously epoxy is required there because there is nothing else to hold it in. Engagement of the threaded rod into the link is a different issue altogether, that's a screw thread engagement and I honestly don't think epoxy will help in any significant way, also if it does actually have any hold it will prevent the link being adjusted.... But it's your heli!
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:56 AM   #56 (permalink)
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There is some variation in the length of the outstand of the threaded parts. I've built two 700X' and the rod on one was very slightly longer than the other. Neither was enough to make me feel comfortable though. Perhaps other rods are longer than either of the two I used?

Personally I'd be looking to have about 5mm (minimum) positive thread engagement to make me feel happy. I doubt very much any of the standard rods will give me that.

As for the epoxy.... The screwed metal rod is glued (not threaded) into the carbon. Obviously epoxy is required there because there is nothing else to hold it in. Engagement of the threaded rod into the link is a different issue altogether, that's a screw thread engagement and I honestly don't think epoxy will help in any significant way, also if it does actually have any hold it will prevent the link being adjusted.... But it's your heli!
Oh the epoxy totally prevents adjustment. I agree it would not do any good otherwise. If i'd need to adjust the linkage I need to break away the epoxy with heat and a tool. I made sure the lengh is perfect before doing this.

I am not saying it is the better way. Actually it is better to do it your way - I just could not be bothered.

5mm positive thread is quite a lot. That is more than any of my other helicopters have on their links. Only the 700X has much thread on the cyclics out of my helis. My tail link has between 3 or 4mm effective thread holding it when removing the threadless tip that goes in first. I am pretty sure the epoxy does it's job reinforcing though. I "might've" understated the way I did this. I should make a pic later then you will see why it should hold.
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Old 08-08-2017, 11:08 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Fast foward to 2017, I recently built a 700x. While tuning my tail in rate mode to remove drift, I had to lengthen my rod a bit and I noticed my links were also only held on by 3 threads also! My rod measured 762mm from thread to thread! I may offset my servo horn and try to shortenthe rod for more thread coverage on links or I may build my own tail rod! I am not sure I can fly it knowing only three threads per side is holding my tail links on! Should be a simple fix, but it looks even in the newer kits this rod remains a touch too short!
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