x110 LVC?

[vlee]

I just got my x110 RTF from Tomtop. It arrived from China to California in eight days with their no cost shipping. Compared to the Nano CPS it is much more stable and powerful. I got 8 minutes of flight time on mild flying before I sensed some power drop. I landed.

Does the x110 has low voltage cutoff?

vlee

[Wargamer]

It does. Can't remember what it's set to, but 3.3v would be pretty typical. With mild flying you are less likely to trigger LVC on a load-based, transient voltage drop. I would not fly 8 minutes, or to LVC. The batteries will hold up a lot better if you fly 5-6 minutes max. Of course those batts are also not expensive... and the Goo 520 mah have worked well for me if you want more.

[vlee]

Thanks for the info. After my last post I continued to fly until the k110 actually cut the power quickly like throwing a switch. I guess that was LVC operating. That occurred at around 9 minutes. I will set my timer to 7 minutes. Since the timer runs when the throttle is off occasionally, I estimate my actual flight time will be about 6 minutes.

I bought some Venom 1S 500 mah batteries with JST connectors. I shall rewire the k110 to use JST, giving me a better choice of locally sourced batteries.

vl

[Wargamer]

Enjoy - it's a great little heli to learn on.

When you get to where you can hover comfortably in any orientation with stability disabled, and do a little FF with simple rudder turns, you will be ready to think about something bigger if that interests you.

If you don't have a sim yet, that would be a good next acquisition.

[vlee]

Thanks for the advice and comments!

The k110 is in a different class from the Nano CPS. Out of the box it hovered without trim! It is a lot more powerful than the Nano CPS. With some wind I had to use full (100%) collective at 80% head speed to counter the wind. With the k110 I fought the same wind at 50% dual range, 70% collective and 70% head speed. I am enjoying it.

Without wind I can hover for 30 seconds or so in agility mode with the Nano CPS. The Nano is my crash and learn machine.

I use RFX as a sim, for about half a year. My go to heli in the sim is the Synergy E7 night, because I can see its lit rotor disk better. I fly in full realistic mode and can barely make coordinated turns without wind. I need some more training on the sim before I go real 3D.

vl

[vlee]

This is a follow up on the stock 450 mah battery that comes with my k110.

Initially the battery started to lose power at about 9 minutes and reached LVC at 9 minute and 50 seconds of mild flying. I set the timer to 8 minutes. I have since done 30 eight minute flights. The k110 is very stable in 6G and 3D modes without wind. It is usually windy where I fly. I spend most of my novice effort in fighting the wind. After the 30 flights I have not noticed any reduction of battery power towards the end of the flights. So the stock battery is very good.

After the 30th flight I removed the stock battery connector on the heli side and spliced in the red JST connector. Once done I started using my Venom 500 mah batteries. The Venom battery started to lose power around 11 minutes, when I stopped flying before LVC cut in. I shall continue to fly with an eight minute timer. Now I can use locally sourced batteries with short delivery time.

vl

[LiquidDrift]

Get a 1S battery tester:
https://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-1...l?rmmds=search

Check your batteries after the flight; you want them to be around 3.77. If they are below 3.7 that is bad and will damage them over time. On mine it will go below 3.7 before LVC so you definitely want to bring it in before then.

If they are below 3.7, you should immediately charge them back up to 3.8 for storage until you want to charge them again.

[vlee]

Thanks for the tip. Keeping the battery voltage around storage voltage will extend its life.

vl

[Flo422]

If you like to always have a (nearly) full charge of batteries like me you can charge them using the "Li-Ion" setting (if you have the option) to charge them to 4.1 V.

Storing them in a cold place also extends shelf life considerably, so putting them in the fridge works well (even when charged).

Just remember to warm them up in your hands a bit before flying (and maybe charging the last 0.1 Volts to 4.2).

I often decide to fly on very short notice and I get about 80 flights out of the Goo batteries before these become too weak to have some fun.
My timer is set to 5:30 so I only use about 70% of a full charge.

[learnedthehardway]

Store them at 3.8 not 4.1 which is basically charged.

I abuse the hell out of batteries and the two things that cause noticeable damage in a short period of time is storing them charged and running them to lvc.

Although 1s lipos tend to be short lived regardless of how you treat them so I wouldn't worry about babying them.

Cheap abuse and toss size lipos anyway

[BrokeDad]

RIght before tossing I'm bad and overcharge them a few tenths. Gets a few more really good flights out of them.

[vlee]

From YouTube l learned that the ideal storage voltage for LiPo was around 3.8V, where the chemical degradation was the lowest. The degradation rate increased slightly above and below 3.8, until we went below 3.0 and above 4.2V, where the battery would poison itself. So we are not going to degrade a battery quickly if we stay away from below 3.0 and above 4.2V. The advice I heard was that if we were going to fly often, we could leave the battery fully charged. When the flying season is over, charge or discharge to the storage voltage and wait out the winter.

vl

[LiquidDrift]

Every bit of LiPo storage info that I've found has said to not leave them fully discharged or charged. Leaving fully charged is worse than fully discharged from what I've read. Keeping them around 3.8 as much as possible is best - you'll find they usually come new at that charge.

With the goo's I usually get 150+ charges before they start to lose their pop. I live in a moderate climate though; two weeks ago was HOT and my batteries didn't last as long in flights and one of them puffed.