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700 Class Electric Helicopters 700 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 08-15-2017, 03:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Setting up a used 700.

I am trying to set up a 700 that I purchased from a friend. I am starting to realize that there is a ton I do not know in regard to setup. This is my 3rd helicopter but I had a guy that set up my other 2 and went so fast that I didnt really catch a lot of the finer details.

Anyway, here are the specs of this machine:

Goblin 700
Brain FBL
Align 750MX motor
CC 120A ESC
Pulse 12S 5000
RJX Energy Blades
No governor yet.

Couple questions:
1. How close do the blades need to be when setting up the head? I am as much as .5 degrees off on servo 1 to 0 degrees on servo 3.

2. Is the top of the boom level to gauge off of for the blades?

3. What are some ball park throttle and pitch curves? Right now I am running:

Default: Pitch - Linear (-100/100) Throttle - 0/45/70/80/80
Idle 1: Pitch - Linear (-65/65) Throttle - 80% Constant
Idle 2: Pitch - Linear (-100/100) Throttle - 90% Constant

I am sure I am way off so any input is appreciated!

Goblin Setup Questions (2 min 32 sec)
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Old 08-15-2017, 06:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Remember, when sitting on the bench (dining table). The main shaft is unlikely to be 100.000% vertical to gravity. The pitch gauge works of gravity.

This way the difference you are seeing in the pitch gauge over each servo is likely to reflect the non-vertical nature of the main shaft. (since you levelled the swash with a leveller).

Quote:
Originally Posted by IFlyEm View Post
...
Couple questions:
1. How close do the blades need to be when setting up the head? I am as much as .5 degrees off on servo 1 to 0 degrees on servo 3.
Not sure I understand here, but at 0 pitch on the TX and no cyclic input:
- Servo arms should be as close to level with the swash plate as possible.
- The swash plate should be perfectly level
- The blades should be as close to perfectly level as possible

You will need to config the FBL unit to get the servo arms correct. (eyeball or extended line set square).

You can use the swash leveller. (adjust servo/swash links as servos already adjusted).

Swash should also be middle of up/down travel along the shaft. (adjust servo/swash links evenly maintaining swash level)

You should use a pitch gauge to measure blade level. (adjust swash/blade grip links - measure with pitch gauge at 180 degree points and take the average - removes shaft vertical alignment to gravity from the equation.)


Quote:
Originally Posted by IFlyEm View Post
...
2. Is the top of the boom level to gauge off of for the blades?
No. Can almost never any guarantee that the boom is exactly 100% perpendicular to the main shaft. Too much margin for error.


Quote:
Originally Posted by IFlyEm View Post
...
3. What are some ball park throttle and pitch curves? Right now I am running:

Default: Pitch - Linear (-100/100) Throttle - 0/45/70/80/80
Idle 1: Pitch - Linear (-65/65) Throttle - 80% Constant
Idle 2: Pitch - Linear (-100/100) Throttle - 90% Constant
Should be OK, but I'd go with:

Default: Pitch - Normal (-40, -20, 0, 50, 100) Throttle - 0/65/80/80/80
Idle Up 1: Pitch - Linear (-100, -50, 0, 50, 100) Throttle - 80/80/80/80/80
Idle Up 2: Pitch - Linear (-100, -50, 0, 50, 100) Throttle - 90/90/90/90/90
Hold: Pitch - Linear (-100, -50, 0, 50, 100) Throttle - 0/0/0/0/0

This way going from Default to Idle Up 1 in air has no difference.

Also normal does not try bury the heli while starting up (or if you chop throttle), but has still has leeway to allow it to descend under power with tail authority (you may sometimes need that).

Hope this all makes sense and helps.
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Old 08-15-2017, 06:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Exactly what I'm looking for! Thank you. Now if I can just figure out this Brain. My BeastX was a bit less involved.
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Old 08-16-2017, 01:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Ok. I'm not figuring out why I can't get my blades 0 with my swash leveled.

Finding 0 Pitch on a Goblin 700. (3 min 32 sec)
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Old 08-16-2017, 02:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IFlyEm View Post
Ok. I'm not figuring out why I can't get my blades 0 with my swash leveled.

https://youtu.be/hnlsVObkt54
If your main shaft is 3.5 degrees backwards from vertical. and you zero the pitch gauge up against the shaft:
- At the same angle as you aligned to shaft it will read 0 degrees (like in the video)
- At 180 degrees it will read 7 degrees (like when you turned the rotor 180 degrees).

(Would the pitch gauge still read zero if you went round the other side of the heli and put it up against the main shaft? - It's a pitch gauge, not a spirit level (you cannot zero out a spirit level))

As your grip indicators show 0 degrees, It should be pretty close.

What does the other blade read at the same spot as the first (this checks tracking)? If the swash/grip lengths are the same, then the other blade will read the same at the same spot as the first.


Soko levelling works on first establishing main shaft vertical (chocking paper under the skids). However if you know how far off vertical the main shaft is, you can still level blades with a digital pitch gauge (RC logger) by knowing the shaft angle at all compass points.
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Last edited by ArchmageAU; 08-16-2017 at 02:43 AM..
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Old 08-16-2017, 10:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If you have your swash level, which you appear to have looking at your last video, and you have all your servo arms at 90 degrees with the collective stick centered, the simplest and most effective method to get the blade pitch at 0 is to insert an appropriate sized driver rod through the blade grip holes and adjust the links until the rod and the main shaft are parallel with each other.

In order to accommodate different sized blade grip bolts, I use a rod off my Dubro prop balancer that has the tapered cones to center the rod in the bolt holes. I've been using this method since I first got into the heli side of the hobby 7 years ago, and of the 15 plus ships I have assembled, I have not had a blade tracking issue on any of them.

Once you get your blade grips zeroed at mid stick, then put the blades on and check your cyclic and collective numbers. All you have to do is put the angle gauge on the blade root, zero it and do the collective or cyclic check. Since you know your swash is level, and the blades are zeroed with the main shaft, and you zero the pitch gauge and don't move the blades at that point your collective and cyclic numbers will be accurate.

Tables are not always level, and rotating the head around will not always get true numbers. Even though you got an apparent level on the main shaft, if the table wasn't perfectly level when you rotated the blades around, you could induce slight angles on the pitch gauge.

Hope this helps

Here is a link to the description I just provided with a photo showing the setup:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...ht=rcflyerheli

Look at post number 13.
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Old 08-16-2017, 11:05 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Very nice trick! I'll try it today!
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Old 08-16-2017, 11:10 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm here is my brain and radio setup so far. Anything look out of whack?

My Setup so far (7 min 46 sec)
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Old 08-16-2017, 01:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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RCFlyerHeli,

Method worked great. Now just need to get a silver one or a Philips screwdriver so I can see it easier. lol

Not sure why they are rotated 90. They aren't that way on my phone.
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