Crimp challenge: Two wires in one terminal. - HeliFreak
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Crimp challenge: Two wires in one terminal.

Took a little practice but I got the hang on it. These are 26 AWG 30 strand wire. The fit is a little snug but they just barely fit into a servo connector housing.

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Old 08-29-2017, 09:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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And this is for???
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:33 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It would likely be more reliable to solder them instead, but that's impressive that you got it all to fit that way.
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I needed to pull power from the FBL unit to power a Scorpion RPM opto coupler but the only free port on the FBL was being used to power the fan on the ESC. This allows me to run two devices into one port without bulky soldered Y-splitter.

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Originally Posted by Thestructured View Post
It would likely be more reliable to solder them instead, but that's impressive that you got it all to fit that way.
Soldering is LESS reliable than crimping.

I'm using a DuPont factory hand tool for 0.1 crimp terminals (HT-95), unlike e.g. the Hansen crimpers it's specifically made for this terminal type (Mini-PV terminals). According to the technical specs for this connector family two 26 or 28AWG wires are allowable in a single terminal.



Unlike generic tools this one wraps the insulation "wings" around so that they "hug" the wire and swages the conductor crimp into a tightly rolled tube. This is the way these terminals are actually supposed to be crimped, generic tools like the Hansens work but sort of mangle the terminal in the process. It also has a terminal locating mechanism that holds it in place in the tool so you only need to line up the wire in the terminal.

This was just a practice run with some scrap wire I had laying around I ordered some 26 AWG Radical RC wire which has tougher insulation (though this also make it a bit stiffer)
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Old 08-29-2017, 09:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
I needed to pull power from the FBL unit to power a Scorpion RPM opto coupler but the only free port on the FBL was being used to power the fan on the ESC. This allows me to run two devices into one port without bulky soldered Y-splitter.



Soldering is LESS reliable than crimping.

I'm using a DuPont factory hand tool for 0.1 crimp terminals (HT-95), unlike e.g. the Hansen crimpers it's specifically made for this terminal type (Mini-PV terminals). According to the technical specs for this connector family two 26 or 28AWG wires are allowable in a single terminal.


When you solder wires like that together, you slice some insulation off one, strip a relatively long piece off the other, wind it around the other wire several times and then solder. I can't imagine that being less reliable...but your way is certainly easier and cleaner looking, like you mentioned (less bulky)
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Old 08-30-2017, 08:45 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Solder could wick and possibly make the joint more susceptible to breakage.

Looks like a solid connection Atomic..

YMMV

(Solder skills..? yes we have those, and an alternate method that works just as well)
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Old 08-30-2017, 09:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I solder because I never learned to crimp.. So in fact what I lack is crimping skills.. oh and I really am not a solder master either
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Old 08-30-2017, 05:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I solder because I never learned to crimp.. So in fact what I lack is crimping skills.. oh and I really am not a solder master either
The great thing about the official tools is that they "just work". Insert terminal into the holder, line up the wire, squeeze the handle and done. Perfect crimp every time. No struggling to keep the terminal lined up no fiddling with tension (it is factory adjusted for 22-26 and 28-32 AWG and you just use the side of the tool for the size of wire you are crimping) and the crimp they make is much more solid than the generic tooling. It swages the conductor crimp into a tight tube around the wire strands (if you look at the underside of the terminal there are two ridges of flashing from this process). You literally cannot pull the wire out of the terminal, the wire will break before then.

If for some reason you need to do 20 AWG, there is a separate tool for that, HT-73. HT-95 is for 22-32 AWG female terminals and HT-102 is for 22-32 AWG male terminals. Both of these have two crimp dies one for 22-26 AWG and one for 28-32 AWG. These come up on Ebay regularly for $50-$100, they've been around for decades now and there are a ton of old Du Pont and Berg branded ones out there. The current owners of the Mini-PV connector family is FCI Amphenol though most of the ones we see in RC are actually chinese clones as well as a few similar 0.1 connector families (Mini-PV is still the most common though and 99% of the time what you get when buying "servo crimp pins" for hobby use)

Oddly, a lot of the chinese made servo leads that use Mini-PV connectors appear to be crimped with an unofficial crimp die that wraps the insulation crimp correctly but doesn't swage the conductor crimp (just folds it over into a double D crimp). These leads are not as securely crimped as ones made with official tooling.

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Old 08-30-2017, 06:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I had to do a double wire crimp the other day myself. ESC now has a lead connected into fan/program port to send telemetry to Spirit. But I also wanted to still connect the fan there. The telemetry cable only uses signal and ground. So the positive pin was open, but had to double crimp on the ground. Just added a female servo plug.

It worked out well. One wire was from Spektrum sat cable, other was thin servo wire (I'd guess 28AWG). Was a snug fit into the connectors housing, couldn't go much bigger.

Even though it's not as perfect as the official tool I think the Hansen Hobbies deluxe crimper is one of my best purchases in this hobby. So nice to be able to make perfect length extensions, or funky cables like this one that you can't even buy.

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Old 08-31-2017, 05:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigEdge View Post
Solder could wick and possibly make the joint more susceptible to breakage.

Looks like a solid connection Atomic..

YMMV

(Solder skills..? yes we have those, and an alternate method that works just as well)
Solder is susceptible to the joint coming apart usually from virbration or some other mechanical failure. Breaking usually isn't a problem if soldered correctly.

Crimping can also fail. Both are fairly reliable assuming professional crimping tools. Crimping is more cost effective in high volume production.
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Old 09-01-2017, 06:11 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I do a fair amount of crimping to make custom length cables. My crimper isn't the best. So after it is crimped and before the tabs are crimped on the insulation, I very quickly wick some solder into the area that crimped the bare wire. Then I crimp the insulation part. I figure I get the better contact of crimping but the solder gives me peace of mind that it won't let go.

I think I just need to finally get a good crimping tool.
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelinpr View Post
I do a fair amount of crimping to make custom length cables. My crimper isn't the best. So after it is crimped and before the tabs are crimped on the insulation, I very quickly wick some solder into the area that crimped the bare wire. Then I crimp the insulation part. I figure I get the better contact of crimping but the solder gives me peace of mind that it won't let go.

I think I just need to finally get a good crimping tool.
There's really only one "good" crimping tool for Mini-PV terminals and that is the official ones. Anything else is generic tooling that will make a suboptimal crimp with this sort of terminal because they were never designed for double D crimp dies.

Common wire-to-board, wire-to-wire connectors, and crimp tools | Matt's Tech Pages

The above links explains all of this pretty well. There is one error in the article though, he states there is no official tool for male terminals but there actually is. The male terminals aren't an original part of the standard but at some point Berg started making them and an official tool for them (HT-102). There is also an official tool for 20 AWG wire and female terminals called HT-72.
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Old 09-01-2017, 11:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Very neat way of making a Y,connector - nice work!
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