Tips and Tricks for the Trex250 pro DFC - HeliFreak
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Old 10-04-2017, 02:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Tips and Tricks for the Trex250 pro DFC

Hi guys,

Winter is approaching and I am taking now time to repair my crashed helis.

I purely fly Align from the Trex 150x to the Trex 700L. The Trex 250 DFC was the most difficult for me, which I crashed sometime ago.

I will take a complete new Trex250 DFC kit and reuse the previous electronics.

Do you fellows have some tips for the build ? I remember, that I always had problems with the tail vibrations.


Sven
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Old 10-04-2017, 10:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lahannsven View Post
Hi guys,

Winter is approaching and I am taking now time to repair my crashed helis.

I purely fly Align from the Trex 150x to the Trex 700L. The Trex 250 DFC was the most difficult for me, which I crashed sometime ago.

I will take a complete new Trex250 DFC kit and reuse the previous electronics.

Do you fellows have some tips for the build ? I remember, that I always had problems with the tail vibrations.


Sven
If you fly a highish headspeed, which the 250 loves, then ditch the Pro's torque tube tail and go with the older belt, or better yet hybrid the design like I and many others did using the Pro DFC tail modified to use the belt, you can find a few threads where people did this easily.

Thread on the easy mod

The problem with the TT pro tail is it's fragile and will strip gears on any crash, also will strip gears on high head speed changes, will strip gears if you land in grass, basically will strip the inner TT gears if you breath on them. Lower headspeeds seem okay with these gears.

Don't bling her out like I and many others did at first, KDE used to make some good upgrades, but added weight making her more of a pig then she normally is, lighter is better on this bird, heck people like using the cheap plastic canopy over the fiberglass just cause it saves weight.

Get a good 1.3mm and .9mm hex, I love my MIP/Thorpe, the screws that come with the kit are pretty soft and strip easy, a good hex will prevent throwing the bird across the room when you've stripped screws not allowing you to take out the motor.

Green loctite on the motor pinion, should come with some.

If converting to belt get the Super Kevlar belt from Infinity-Hobby the normal belt is good and lasts a long time, but mine always break in a crash involving the tail, for less then the price of a frou-frou drink at Stealbucks you can get a belt that has lasted me over a dozen crashes.
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Chopper Crew: T-Rex 250 DFC, T-Rex 550e DFC, Goblin Black Thunder 700 T-Line
Multi Chop Crew: Nano QX, E010S, 200 QX, Martian II 250, Scratch V-Tail 355
Planks: Too Dayam Many
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Old 10-04-2017, 04:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I disagree with most of what is said above apart from the good hex and plastic canopy part. I have no problems with the TT drive.

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T-Rex 550E V2 Spartan VX1n, T-Rex 250 PRO DFC Spartan VX1n, Blade 130X. Futaba T8FG Super

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Old 10-04-2017, 09:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by QueadlunnRau View Post
If you fly a highish headspeed, which the 250 loves, then ditch the Pro's torque tube tail and go with the older belt, or better yet hybrid the design like I and many others did using the Pro DFC tail modified to use the belt, you can find a few threads where people did this easily.

Thread on the easy mod

The problem with the TT pro tail is it's fragile and will strip gears on any crash, also will strip gears on high head speed changes, will strip gears if you land in grass, basically will strip the inner TT gears if you breath on them. Lower headspeeds seem okay with these gears.

Don't bling her out like I and many others did at first, KDE used to make some good upgrades, but added weight making her more of a pig then she normally is, lighter is better on this bird, heck people like using the cheap plastic canopy over the fiberglass just cause it saves weight.

Get a good 1.3mm and .9mm hex, I love my MIP/Thorpe, the screws that come with the kit are pretty soft and strip easy, a good hex will prevent throwing the bird across the room when you've stripped screws not allowing you to take out the motor.

Green loctite on the motor pinion, should come with some.

If converting to belt get the Super Kevlar belt from Infinity-Hobby the normal belt is good and lasts a long time, but mine always break in a crash involving the tail, for less then the price of a frou-frou drink at Stealbucks you can get a belt that has lasted me over a dozen crashes.

well said
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Old 10-05-2017, 01:31 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Yes, with the TT drive you easily mess the Trex250 up, when you set it into the grass. Afterwards the repair of all the gears is heavy.

Therefor I'm using a heliport.

Also the screws are tiny and after a crash you don't get them out anymore.

But still the Trex250 is a class better than a Blade 180 CFX and therefor I will give it another try.

I probably use the Castle Talon 15 A and governor mode. Flybarless system will be Microbeast.

Do you have any more hints for the tail ? Is there a tuning kit on the market ? What about the tail servo, I heard about MKS 95i ?!


Sven
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Old 10-05-2017, 09:33 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lahannsven View Post
Yes, with the TT drive you easily mess the Trex250 up, when you set it into the grass. Afterwards the repair of all the gears is heavy.

Therefor I'm using a heliport.

Also the screws are tiny and after a crash you don't get them out anymore.

But still the Trex250 is a class better than a Blade 180 CFX and therefor I will give it another try.

I probably use the Castle Talon 15 A and governor mode. Flybarless system will be Microbeast.

Do you have any more hints for the tail ? Is there a tuning kit on the market ? What about the tail servo, I heard about MKS 95i ?!


Sven
Whenever I rebuild my tail I make sure there is no binding, like to the point where I breath hard on the tail fins to move them when not connected to the tail linkage. My tail has never really had an issue since I got her in 2010 except for finding that perfect servo.

I LOVE the MKS DS95i, will never use anything else, yes it's heavy and yes its $$$, but for the confidence in the tail it gives me, priceless.

I've had a JR 290g, but gave me issues when it was flybarred with a Spartan Quark, though many others reported perfect tails with that servo.

I had a AR7200BX (BeastX with spektrum Rx) and it flew great with that, recently switched to a mini Brain2 for no real reason.

My Talon 15 just burned out last Saturday, literally caught on fire right after the attached video, wished my wife kept filming. My fault though as I'm running a 2s Viper 5600kv motor on 3s and was obviously pushing over 15a. The motor is always cool, but never checked the ESC temps oh well, dropping in my Talon 25 this weekend.

I'm glad the TT works for some if not most, I tried to make it work on my SE converted to DFC Pro, after stripping gears mid air the second time, I had to convert back as I have no confidence in those gears at all.

Align T-Rex 250 Cutting Weeds Crash (2 min 12 sec)
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Chopper Crew: T-Rex 250 DFC, T-Rex 550e DFC, Goblin Black Thunder 700 T-Line
Multi Chop Crew: Nano QX, E010S, 200 QX, Martian II 250, Scratch V-Tail 355
Planks: Too Dayam Many

Last edited by QueadlunnRau; 10-05-2017 at 09:44 AM..
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Old 10-05-2017, 11:25 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Spektrm 3060H and Castle Talon 15. No regrets
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