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Old 09-01-2017, 08:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I've been fighting the urge to buy any more helis since I built my nx4 this winter. I've always been interested in the 480 and now with all the labor day sales I can't resist any longer... so here is my Logo 480 build thread.

I've ordered the kit w/motor and a set of 477 VTX blades.
I'm going with a Brain2 (sorry, Mikado), trying out the Spektrum integration.
Servos: KST X15-908 on cyclic, X20-1035 on tail
ESC: Hobbywing 80a v4
Batteries: Pulse 6s 3700 45c x4 (helidirect sale for x2)
Spektrum SPM4649T telemetry receiver and 2 DSMX satellites.

I think that's everything.

edit: crap it looks like those batteries don't have connectors so I need some of those too (EC5). Not looking forward to all that soldering.
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Last edited by ultrataco; 09-02-2017 at 09:46 AM..
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Old 09-02-2017, 09:30 AM   #2 (permalink)
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One thing I might add. I use these colored trim strips 6" wide I found at my LHS for color on the black tail fins. I see many people flying without a canopy at times. I thought I would use that on my frames of my next build.
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Old 09-02-2017, 12:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Are you already using ec5 ? If not look into the Supra x5 or any by Rc pro plus.
You may also want to order an anti static kit if it's not included.
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Old 09-02-2017, 12:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dsss View Post
Are you already using ec5 ? If not look into the Supra x5 or any by Rc pro plus.
You may also want to order an anti static kit if it's not included.
Yeah I'm using ec5 on other stuff already with no issues so just figured I'd stick with it.

I'll look into an anti-static kit. thanks
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Old 09-02-2017, 12:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrataco View Post
Yeah I'm using ec5 on other stuff already with no issues so just figured I'd stick with it.

I'll look into an anti-static kit. thanks
I'm fairly sure that my 480 came with the static kit as standard. It seems to be a standard thing these days as my 600 and 690 also had the kit.
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Old 09-02-2017, 01:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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alright. I found it online a several places but I wait till I get the kit and see if it's in there already.
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Old 09-02-2017, 02:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The anti static is not really needed for this heli.
It's a awesome heli by the way 😊
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Old 09-02-2017, 07:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Also if you don't want to use the wires for anti static you could just file a bit on the front of the boom to remove some of the anodizing where it comes in contact with the mounting blocks.
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Old 09-03-2017, 10:35 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrian4 View Post
Also if you don't want to use the wires for anti static you could just file a bit on the front of the boom to remove some of the anodizing where it comes in contact with the mounting blocks.


Good point. Should work fine on the frame section. This method works fine on the Diabolos. On a logo you might still want to do the jumper from the tail shaft pulley to the boom though since the pulley is plastic.


Enjoy, it's a sweet little heli. And the 477 blades are awesome once you've tuned for them. I recently got a set running on my 480 and am very impressed with them.

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Old 10-06-2017, 06:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well so much for my build thread. I usually like to post pics and issues as I go but I mostly worked on this late at night over the past couple weeks and didn't feel like taking or posting many pics. I'm about to maiden in my backyard (charging a pack now) and finally got around to uploading my photos so I guess I'll just do pretty much the whole build thread all at once now.








The servos wouldn't fit because of the wiring so I had to remove the back to fit them through and then reinstall the back.







rudder








more coming soon...
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Old 10-06-2017, 06:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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sorry about the multiple posts. I just now realized I can upload more than 10 attachments.








Tail box at the end of the boom like in the manual, which I will later discover is not possible:








starting to look like a helicopter




First issue with the build. Servos too long. I ordered some carbon servo spacers to move out the servos. There's now 1-2mm clearance between servos and shaft, which hopefully is fine. I tried to double up the spacers but the screws are too short which led to kind of slightly stripping one and a half of the servo mount holes on one side. That servo feels plenty solid but I will keep an eye on the screw (it's fine so far after the 1 flight).






Moved tail box forward to tension the belt without the boom hitting the front belt guide pulleys. This was a little frustrating since the manual gives no indication on how to set tension or how much is correct. So I just got it about as tight as I could. (Later I would find out I had the belt twisted the wrong way and had to take the tail apart, flip the belt and re-set tension. )













My first time soldering connectors onto batteries went pretty well other than ruining a couple bullets with solder overflow.




Thank you to Hobbywing and Scorpion (or Mikado) for using the same motor bullets and saving me from more soldering.




Wiring. I don't much enjoy this part and it was especially tricky on this heli. (The Brain2 is not stuck down yet in these pics.)




I hope I don't have interference issues running the rudder servo wire over the rx and sats like that.







anti-static wire



Added esc programming wire and kept it on because it's a pain to connect where it is.




I won a 50% off iKon coupon at a funfly.
So I got an ikon2 to put on the 480 and I'm going to put the the MSH fbl on my MSH heli at some point. (Max) And yes, I know they are exactly the same thing.

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Last edited by ultrataco; 10-06-2017 at 07:24 PM..
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Old 10-06-2017, 06:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Last night I worked on getting the tail smooth, fbl setup and battery mounting. The battery situation is annoying.

At first I put too much velcro in and could not get the battery back far enough and under the pinion without it getting stuck. I ended up with just 2 little squares of velcro on the heli (plus a strap). It's still fussy to get in and out but it's tolerable for now. It really needs a tray like the 550sx.

The canopy is also annoying, but I've been spoiled by the MSH magnetic canopies.

Maiden went pretty well. I did it with the included Rotor-Techs just in case. It was a bit cloudy and getting dark but this canopy still popped really well. I was in my back yard, so just hovered and flipped around, and did a few tic-tocs. It feels good. (Though I maybe need a bit more expo.) I can tell I'm going to like this heli.

I have my idle-ups at 2100, 2300, and 2500. I expected 2100 to be too low but it actually felt fine to me, even on tic tocs. I bet with the VTX it will be even better.

The only flight issue I had (other than initial tail gain adjustments) was when I did some back flips it seemed to roll and/or piro a bit. I couldn't really tell exactly. It could have just been me. I'll have to fly it some more. I would suspect the weird servo-to-swash geometry (none of the links are straight up) might have something to do with it but that's apparently a normal thing on this heli so I don't think it's an issue.

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Last edited by ultrataco; 10-06-2017 at 08:18 PM..
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Old 10-06-2017, 11:01 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I put the 380 magnetic mounts on mine. With the small magnets on the back at the seam it holds great.
IMO even easier then the protos since it doesn't have the front magnets.
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Last edited by smittylube; 10-07-2017 at 02:08 PM..
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Old 10-07-2017, 01:43 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrataco View Post
The battery situation is annoying.

At first I put too much velcro in and could not get the battery back far enough and under the pinion without it getting stuck. I ended up with just 2 little squares of velcro on the heli (plus a strap). It's still fussy to get in and out but it's tolerable for now. It really needs a tray like the 550sx.
I put egrips anti-slip stickers on the battery plate area; nothing needed on the batteries themselves. This adds negligible thickness and allows easy insertion and removal of the battery. Secured with two straps, the battery has never moved.
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Old 10-07-2017, 05:21 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I may have discovered a simple fix to the battery issue. I removed the soft loop type velcro from the heli and replaced it with the same hook style that I have on the batteries. I don't know about all velcro, but with this industrial strength velcro I have, the hooks sort of snap/hook when pressed together and won't slide easily, but they also don't grab much when sliding the battery in or out.

I haven't flown with it yet (raining ) but I shook the heli around as hard as I could and it didn't budge. Then I tried to push the battery out by hand kind of hard and it came up in the back and slipped a little bit. I fixed this simply by adding a second battery strap to keep the battery down. This second strap also has a grippy rubber coating for some extra grip.

So I can now easily slide the battery in and tighten the straps. It feels very secure to me. I'll report any issues I have but I don't expect any problems. I'm not a smack pilot anyway.






2 straps. You can also see I added a wire for esc telemetry.




Set up Brain2/Spektrum telemetry and installed vtx blades but it's windy and raining today so can't fly.

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Old 10-07-2017, 05:33 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smittylube View Post
I put the 380 magnetic mounts on mine. With the small magnets on the back at the seam it holds great.
IMO even easier then the protos since it doesn't have the front magnets.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. But my issue is more getting it hooked on the skids and then around the head. I put some rubber edge protector in places on the canopy which I think made it a little more finicky. But, not a big deal really.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GregCA View Post
I put egrips anti-slip stickers on the battery plate area; nothing needed on the batteries themselves. This adds negligible thickness and allows easy insertion and removal of the battery. Secured with two straps, the battery has never moved.
Thanks. I looked into that but then decided to try and find something at home I could use before buying anything (and having to wait for it). If my hook-to-hook velcro method fails, I'll maybe try that egrips stuff.
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Old 10-07-2017, 10:59 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultrataco View Post
I have my idle-ups at 2100, 2300, and 2500.
Wow, I'd be surprised if you could get solid governor performance at 2500 rpm, even if you had the 1100kv motor.
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Old 10-08-2017, 06:30 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbrian4 View Post
Wow, I'd be surprised if you could get solid governor performance at 2500 rpm, even if you had the 1100kv motor.
Yeah I don't need 2500. I didn't do any gearing calculations. I just searched and saw a lot of people at 2300 or 2600. But after flying it I'm not sure I'll be using even 2300 much. I didn't even try 2500.

So I'm going to change it so 2300 is my highest rpm. Probably either 1900-2100-2300 or 2100-2200-2300
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Old 10-08-2017, 03:36 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I'm at 1900 / 2100 with switch 523's. It's super nice and stable, has plenty of pop. Great presence in the air. Very relaxing, and 9 minutes with 3700 packs. And it does not even get hot.

I'll bet those Vtx blades will fly as big and probably better than the switch. Good stuff.
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