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Mikado Logo Helicopters Mikado Logo Helicopters Discussion


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Old 09-30-2017, 09:41 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Logo 550 Servo arm link to swash alignment

If you look at the picture the ball link connecting servo arm to the swash is not really 90 degrees with the servo arm as the manual suggests it should have. I am using Mikado Carbon servo arms and used the second hole, should I move the link to the furthest hole? That will likely bring the alignment closer to 90 degrees.



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Old 10-01-2017, 02:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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With the old swash, the middle hole was fine. I don't have the new swash, but I would set the distance to give you good numbers in Cyclic Setup and Collective Endpoint

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If these numbers are in their optimal ranges, it will fly fine. Moving to the outer hole will lower the resolution and reduce these numbers.
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Old 10-01-2017, 07:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
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That's how mine looks also.
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Old 10-01-2017, 12:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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mine look(ed) the same. just trim the middle-point of the servo to be 1-2mm down (and adjust the pushrod length)... just until the 90 (horn/pushrod) degrees are reached. this will give you symetrical throw on both sides. that's what's it all about....
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Old 10-07-2017, 01:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Today I moved the link to the outer most hole in the servo arm, geometrically it looks more correct now. And I redone my setup, hoping to get some flights today.

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Old 10-18-2017, 01:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I've heard on the 700 some people are flipping the servos upside down, increasing the length between the servo horn and swash, therefore reducing the angle of the linkage.

I wonder if that would help here. What numbers are you getting during setup by using the outer hole?
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Old 10-21-2017, 10:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmtyndall View Post
I wonder if that would help here. What numbers are you getting during setup by using the outer hole?
In my 550 I have these values on my current setup:
Collective Endpoints: 72 and -76 (About 13 degrees of pitch).
Cyclic Setup: 57

So the cyclic setup value does look too low, I need to check on the setup again.
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Old 10-21-2017, 11:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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A reliable source has confirmed you can flip the servos. This will give better alignment, a bit more servo torque to the swash. Overall the heli should be less poppy, and a bit smoother

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Old 10-23-2017, 01:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Those numbers are too low for vbar, you can flip the servos on 700 yes, on 550 sx v2 really you can do that too? When it was mid hole did it give you negative tendecy? Good luck sir.
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Old 10-23-2017, 07:17 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Numbers are already low on my new 600, with the correct 17mm ball position. I'm at about 83 for 12 degrees collective and 71 I think for 8 degrees cyclic. That's with Align DS615s.

Has anybody just gone through the wizard on V control and just flown without doing these steps as they're skipped by the wizard? Mikado say you can "enjoy the helicopter" as soon as you've gone through the wizard according to their video.

I know a guy at my field has with his Logo 550. I'm too chicken though, as when I checked, I had over 15 degrees of pitch and 10 degrees cyclic.
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Old 10-27-2017, 12:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Logo 550 Servo arm link to swash alignment

As long as there's enough throw with the links on the inner holes, I'd rather have them there and give up a tiny bit of geometry, because you'll never notice that amount of geometry change at your thumbs. But the change in resolution and the resulting head gain changes might be noticeable.

Try it and see how it flies I guess. If it's still good enough, leave it. But if it gets weird at all, I'd move them back. I doubt you'll be able to take advantage of the extra throw before reaching the mechanical limits of the swash, or your programmed limits you set for cyclic and collective, so then you'll be choking them back down farther in the setup in exchange for a geometry change that you won't notice. The elevator servo link often ends up crooked too. Vbar compensates, and modern servos are usually fast enough that you'll never detect such a small difference. It's not as critical as it was on the old flybar heads with old servos.

If you go out too far you won't be taking advantage of the available torque, and resolution as much as you would with them in closer. However your flying style might be such that it doesn't matter, and maybe you won't take advantage of it all no matter how you set it up. That's probably the case for a lot of us, but no one likes to admit it. Lol. So at the end of the day, you probably didn't screw up by moving them out. It'll probably still fly well. Maybe just less than optimal.




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