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Old 09-10-2017, 10:59 PM   #81 (permalink)
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In the middle of my build. A few things I noticed

* The tail pitch links it said needed loctite were already loctited. Oh well, re-doing it is no big deal

* The manual calls for loctite when attaching the canopy links. They are plastic, so loctite would be a bad idea; maybe they used to have a metal insert? Also maybe the screws should be self-tapping?

* On one of those DFC links, it was impossible to tell which was the smooth side and which was the stepped, even with my magnifying light. The link arm turns smoothly one way and not the other, so I think it's OK.

* One of the linkage balls on the swash was stripped. Fortunately a T5 fit and was able to grab the damaged head.

* One of the feathering shaft screws wouldn't come out, even when I held the shaft with a rubber-covered pliers. Decided if it was that hard to remove it didn't need more loctite.

I'm having a hard time screwing the linkage balls into the servo horns. With bigger helis I sometimes run a drill bit (manually, no drill) through the horn to enlarge the hole, but I don't have a bit small enough for this one. Any tips?

Edit: used a small round file

@hwpeter

If the head is wobbling, make sure it's straight on the main shaft and the two pinch screws on the head are tightened.

Last edited by nybbler; 09-11-2017 at 12:04 AM..
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Old 09-11-2017, 12:03 AM   #82 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nybbler View Post
* On one of those DFC links, it was impossible to tell which was the smooth side and which was the stepped, even with my magnifying light. The link arm turns smoothly one way and not the other, so I think it's OK.
Since they come pre-assembled, just leave them the way they are

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* One of the feathering shaft screws wouldn't come out, even when I held the shaft with a rubber-covered pliers. Decided if it was that hard to remove it didn't need more loctite.
Get one of these, a very good investment:
https://www.lynxheli.com/product_inf...ducts_id=22682
(check the size you need)
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Old 09-11-2017, 04:38 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Try heating the linkage balls with a match or lighter.

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Old 09-11-2017, 07:58 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coco66 View Post
Get one of these, a very good investment:
https://www.lynxheli.com/product_inf...ducts_id=22682
(check the size you need)
I've seen this tool before, but really do not know how it works or what exactly it does?

is there a video, or can you explain how it works?
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Old 09-11-2017, 09:51 PM   #85 (permalink)
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At a guess, I expect it's a one-way bearing in a metal body. Stick the spindle in, put a hex driver in the shaft screw, and turn. I don't have one though.
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Old 09-12-2017, 01:32 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Exaclty. Holds the shaft 100% with no pain, no marks, no manual force needed.
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Old 11-23-2017, 11:18 AM   #87 (permalink)
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Default ds480 tail mount trick

So DS480 has the wires coming out the opposite side of the output shaft, which is a little awkward everywhere.

At least on the tail, however, this can be advantageous. Turns out the tail servo can be turned backwards, which, theoretically, at least, both lowers moment and shifts CG forward a bit. Not a lot of wiggle room for adjustment with stock control rod lengths, but found this to work for both 190 and 210 tail booms. YMMV...
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Old 11-26-2017, 04:49 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Tip: If you are using MKS DS450 cyclic servos, install the elevator (rear) servo when you attach the frame sides.

They size of the DS450 is just a little too large to push into place once the frame is completely assembled with the main shaft etc.
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Old 12-24-2017, 11:03 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Question Ball link pliers for Oxy 2

After some searching, looks like the only tools to remove these links are trex 250 ball link tweezers or diy. Are these still the best options?
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Last edited by Jason Courville; 12-24-2017 at 11:55 PM..
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Old 12-25-2017, 03:48 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Courville View Post
After some searching, looks like the only tools to remove these links are trex 250 ball link tweezers or diy. Are these still the best options?
I just use finger nails
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Old 12-28-2017, 10:02 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Question Oxy 2 sport main bearing blocks.

I'm working on my Oxy 2 sport. I have a couple of questions. In the manual it says that the bearing block are ready to use and where assembled with loctite Must be a typo, they're plastic. One had the bearing installed the other is not. No big deal but, does the bearings need to be glued in with CA? The fit was reasonably snug. Also two of the boom lock rods are defective. One is machined in a twist so that the two hex ends are not aligned. And one is very loose. No problem, I submitted a ticket on the lynx website. Was that the proper place?
Thanks
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Old 12-31-2017, 10:23 AM   #92 (permalink)
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Servo Horns - a #55 drill (.052") works well for drilling out servo horns for proper fit of ball studs. It is .010" smaller than the stud OD. Put a drop of CA on the threads after the ball is installed to prevent getting CA on the ball.

I did not see this important tip in this thread.
For servo savers to work properly, apply loctite, tighten the screw then loosen 1/2 of a turn.
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