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Old 07-24-2016, 10:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default three blade tail



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Old 07-24-2016, 10:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sexy. Do you have more tail authority?
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Interesting...so how low of headspeed can you go without losing tail authority. My stretched 750 using 753's have been flown down to 1600, and that's about as low I'm willing to go the way the tail feels (this is of course considering I haven't sped up my tail with mods, completely stock ratio).
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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NIce!
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Ok now that I've done a few test flights and know that this mod actually works, here's what you need to do it:

Align three blade tail set

Trex 700 tail rotor shaft

JR Vibe 50 3D grip spindle spacer (or any 8x10x1mm washer as long as the ID is tight tolerance)

Team Associated servo mount spacer set (needed to correct geometry of Align three blade tail, this is also a problem on the Trex 700E not just the Rush, see link below)

3x KDE bronze sleeve bushing kit (may not need these)

M2x6 cap head screws (again you may or may not need the bushings and screws, it depends on the tolerance of the stock screws that come with the Align tail set)

Optional:

2x Avid RC 8x12x3.5 rubber shielded bearings

2x Avid RC 6x12x4 rubber shielded bearings

Align blade clips

Blade Pro tail rotor bolts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351769764437...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT



In addition to adding chinese weights to the tail the Blade Pro bolts also fit the slot in the Align tail rotor grips (which is quite shallow) much more snugly than a nylock nut and help prevent it from getting chewed up.

The thread on using the Team Associated servo spacers as tail links is here. I don't want to have to duplicate that information here so read that first. Replacing the stock dogbone links is necessary for correct tail geometry. This holds true for the Trex 700 as well as the Rush (Align really messed up on this)

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=751921

Take the tail pitch slider apart (use an adjustable wrench) and assemble the center ring with the new parts like this.



I figured that while I had the tail slider apart it was a good time to change the bearings. With the new Avid rubber shielded bearings the assembly no longer has any sideways slop between the bushing and the slider. There is a bit more drag from the full contact rubber shields but it's so tiny that it won't make any noticeable difference and the rubber shields will keep the grease in and dirt out. Full contact rubber shielded bearings are typically good for up to around 20,000-30,000 RPM.



The 8x10x1mm washer goes between the control arms and the slider ring. This is needed for correct thread engagement of the bushing and control arms (the bushing will stick out by 1mm without it) and also to have the correct distance between the center of the slider ring and the control link endpoints. Use locktight on the threads and screw it together tightly but don't gorilla torque it or else it can distort the bushing and cause it to stick on the shaft. If that happens untightening and redoing it will fix it unless you over tightened so much that it permanently distorted the bushing.




If you get any tight spots in the gears turn the tail gear a little and try again. I also replaced the tail rotor shaft bearings with Avid 6x12x4 rubber shielded while I had everything apart.

See this thread for how to use the new links:

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=751921

As stated there you might need the bushings and M2x6 screws or the stock screws and bushings might work, It depends on the tolerance of the stock screws. If the stock screws and bushings that come with the three blade tail set bind with the new links than the KDE bushings and m2x6 cap head screws will definitely work.

Maximum pitch with the new tail is about 30 degrees in either direction with the neutral point at about 5-6 degrees (5-6 degrees is the correct amount for a three blade tail). Also I recommend against allowing the hex head on the bushing to enter the bearing hole in the tail sideplate and this goes for the original Alees bushing as well. There is only about 0.1mm of clearance between the sides of the hole and the bushing (in fact the new bushing looks like it has more clearance than the original one)
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Old 09-30-2016, 11:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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One other thing I forgot to mention, you should use the Align TT bevel gear in the tail because the Rush one is too tight when used with the Align tail rotor shaft.

Alternatively you could make a bore adapter bushing out of some K&S 6x5mm brass tubing and use the Rush tail rotor shaft. You'd need to drill a hole in one side of the brass bushing for the setscrew and split it up the side lengthwise with a dremel on the other. I've experimented with this a bit and I'll probably eventually come back to it.
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Old 11-29-2017, 10:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I think I have a potential solution for a steel bore adaptor for the stock tail rotor shaft. I did some testing and a Trex 450 one way bearing sleeve fits the hub snugly on the OD and as well fits the 5mm step on tail rotor shaft snugly on the ID. I ordered a set of extras to give this a try (about $4 a pair). All I should need to do is drill a hole for the setscrew and then cut it to lenght.
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