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Old 12-23-2017, 03:06 PM   #21 (permalink)
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- The tail booms have the same diameter. Stretching a 600 to a 700 is quite popular.
- A 160 HV ESC is more than enough; an 80HV should be sufficient.
- The YGE has active freewheeling, as far as I know. That should allow you to lower the headspeed to the desired one, though I would consider a 10s setup as well.
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Old 01-13-2018, 01:30 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I use the Phoenix Edge 80HV in my 700 size MD500E and even with pretty aggressive flying I don't often approach 80 amps of draw...and its rated for a momentary peak of 120 amps so I agree it would be more than adequate.
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Old 01-15-2018, 06:38 AM   #23 (permalink)
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OK, let me get this thread back on track. I'll post another thread concerning the Trex 600PRO in a 700 size MD500D.

I'm trying to fit a converted Trex 600N in the Long Ranger now. It came w/a belt drive. I ordered a Chaos tt conversion from RC Aerodyne. It hasn't been delivered yet. I'm also waiting on some led lights for the interior.

I changed the motor to a smaller kv rating. It's a Hacker A40-10L ET, 1100kv. I got a 11t pinion to mesh w/a 112t main. The 11t pinion must be used w/the 112t main gear.

So I calculate,
Motor Speed = (Kv * 22.2) * 0.90 = (1100 * 22.2) * 0.90 = 21978 RPM (@ 100%)
Gear Ratio = 112T / 11T = 10.18 :1
Motor Speed / Gear Ratio = Headspeed = 21978 / 10.18 = 2159 RPM (@100%)
If I'm operating the esc at 80%, 2159 x.80 = 1727 RPM, 85% = 1835 RPM.

Sounds like I'm back to square one w/using a CC esc at 80% throttle. So I'm searching for an inexpensive 6s motor now that'll fit the 49mm frame.
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Old 01-15-2018, 12:26 PM   #24 (permalink)
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The problem is that you changed your gear ratio and your motor rating in opposite directions. Your gear ratio got lowered by a factor 11/13=0.846, but your motor kv increased by a factor 0.5*1100/510=1.078 (the factor 0.5 here accounts for 6s vs 12s setup). Everything else being equal, your head speed for the ESC settings only got lowered by 0.846*1.078=0.913.
At least it's the right direction, but you probably should have gone twice as far. A 1000kv motor would have been about right.
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Old 01-15-2018, 01:24 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by getsuyoubi View Post
The problem is that you changed your gear ratio and your motor rating in opposite directions. Your gear ratio got lowered by a factor 11/13=0.846, but your motor kv increased by a factor 0.5*1100/510=1.078 (the factor 0.5 here accounts for 6s vs 12s setup). Everything else being equal, your head speed for the ESC settings only got lowered by 0.846*1.078=0.913.
At least it's the right direction, but you probably should have gone twice as far. A 1000kv motor would have been about right.
I saw HK has a Typhoon 880kv motor I was considering. But I think it's too wide for the frame.Is there another manufacturer besides Hacker w/a outrunner in a can? I don't see any can outrunners on the Hacker site. Discontinued?
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Old 01-15-2018, 02:34 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Maybe you can just cut the frame a bit to make room for a larger motor. I don't know the 600N frame, but I guess that should be possible.
With the 600Pro it's a different issue because a larger motor would interfere with the servos, but that's a different setup.
You could also rewind your motor for a lower kv. Maybe someone in the electric motors forum can help you out.
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Old 01-17-2018, 08:59 PM   #27 (permalink)
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It seems I nor the guy I bought my last 600 from didn't research the model throughly. It's actually a 600CF frame, not the 600n. That however works out better because the CF frame closely matches the ESP battery placement. The battery placement designed for this frame may be of no consequence since it's going in the fuse. But I got the 6s setup anyway.

I got the tt conversion for it, but not 100% sure I won't use the tail belt drive.
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Old 01-17-2018, 09:09 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I have a 600CF, and I'm using the belt driven tail. No issues.
You can easily open the frames a little to fit a larger motor in. That's what I did on mine.
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Old 01-29-2018, 10:32 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I bought a SK540 from a guy, but I couldn't program it because the usb port on the gyro kept losing connection, if it made connection at all. The guy I got it from says he's willing to refund my $. I sent him pics and explained what happened. If he follows through as a stand-up guy I'll give him the praise he'll deserve.
So I'll try another deal elsewhere.
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Old 02-15-2018, 08:28 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Got my refund! Xilefchin is a stand up guy. I'd be happy to deal w/him again.

On another note, I got a AR7200BX for this model. Going through the programming mode now..
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Old 02-20-2018, 03:46 PM   #31 (permalink)
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So today hit the 70's! I scrambled to prep the heli for its first flight. Wind is gusting to 16 mph. A buddy and I met at a soccer field to fly. He flew his Trex 800. I put my 600 up (5 times) and I was totally pleased. I was going to video the flights but forgot to bring the camera.

Now it's time for the fitting into the Long Ranger fuse and finish with some detailing.
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Old 02-27-2018, 11:02 PM   #32 (permalink)
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The standard size elevator servo being 38mm high won't fit in the fuse. I bought an Align DS510 servo as a replacement. The height of the fuse is near perfect. I'll only need a small spacer due to the crossmember of the horizontal stabs.

I'm contemplating having the two fuse halves connected with screws and change batteries through a window because alignment pins and magnets isn't looking like a viable option.

I'm not stressed about the head speed anymore. I just want it to look the part, fly well and have fun.
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Old 02-28-2018, 04:34 AM   #33 (permalink)
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You're not using two different types of cyclic servos, are you? I guess that's a typo...
Can you post a picture or two of that problem area?

Last edited by getsuyoubi; 02-28-2018 at 08:06 AM..
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Old 02-28-2018, 11:10 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by getsuyoubi View Post
You're not using two different types of cyclic servos, are you? I guess that's a typo...
Can you post a picture or two of that problem area?
I've never had different servos on cyclic before. I read somewhere they need to be same speed. No it's not a typo. The difference in speed between the two servos is .02 sec @ 6v.

The specs on the torque between the two is a different matter. The existing servos have 111.09 oz/in, and the Align DS510 has 63 oz/in I think. I didn't see that as being a problem to be concerned about. How wrong am I?

The pics show how the servo forces the mechanics to the left off center. Do you think it's better to have it off center then different servos?
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Old 02-28-2018, 11:37 AM   #35 (permalink)
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I had completely forgotten that you are using the 600CF, not the EFL.

My suggestion is to get rid of the bell cranks, and go direct to swash. That's what I did on my 600CF in the AS350 fuselage (Take a look at post #28 here: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...=769300&page=2 ).
That allows you to move the elevator servo further in. You will want to use the same plastic servo mount (part number H60183) I used because you have to cut down its height; otherwise it moves the servo too far and the linkage rod ends up at such a large angle that it might pop off.

If you go that route, you have to remove all bell cranks because you want equal servo arm lengths everywhere.
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Old 02-28-2018, 01:04 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by getsuyoubi View Post
I had completely forgotten that you are using the 600CF, not the EFL.

My suggestion is to get rid of the bell cranks, and go direct to swash. That's what I did on my 600CF in the AS350 fuselage (Take a look at post #28 here: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread...=769300&page=2 ).
That allows you to move the elevator servo further in. You will want to use the same plastic servo mount (part number H60183) I used because you have to cut down its height; otherwise it moves the servo too far and the linkage rod ends up at such a large angle that it might pop off.

If you go that route, you have to remove all bell cranks because you want equal servo arm lengths everywhere.
Interesting. Thanks for the heads up.Once I examine the servo mount closely, I believe I'll understand all I just read in your posts.I'll let you know if I have any questions.

Now that I remember originally thinking about moving the servo inward. However, all those bellcrank moving parts discouraged me.
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Last edited by Tman49; 02-28-2018 at 01:46 PM.. Reason: more info
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Old 02-28-2018, 01:54 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Just get rid of those bellcranks. On my old frame they had so much slop that the heli flew much, much better after I removed them.
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Old 02-28-2018, 02:07 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Just get rid of those bellcranks. On my old frame they had so much slop that the heli flew much, much better after I removed them.
The 2 for pitch/aileron aren't being used. I had a problem trying to get them off, I just tied them to the frame.

I looked at the elevator servo mount you mentioned. Is it required? At this point I don't fully understand the use of it. But I haven't studied the servo yet either.
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Old 02-28-2018, 02:24 PM   #39 (permalink)
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You need that mount to move the servo further in. In your current configuration your servo arm is close to the frame; the servo is mounted directly from the inside to the frame and therefore sticks out too far. That elevator servo mount allows you to move the servo about 2cm further inwards. This has two effects:
1. The servo does not stick out as much anymore
2. The servo arm ends up (more or less) centered between the frames, so the linkage rod can go straight up to the swash.
I'm saying "more or less" because with the full height of the servo mount you will end up with your servo arm almost as close to the opposite frame as it was before to the other one. That's the reason why you have to buy the plastic version, because it's much easier to cut down its height than on the aluminum version.
I would either have to go back to my build log, or measure on the actual helicopter, but I believe I ended up with a height of about one centimeter. At that height you cannot use the original screws anymore because they are too long to go into the same hole from both sides, so you have to use machine screws that go through the whole assembly instead.
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Old 02-28-2018, 03:05 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Git it. Thanks. Yeah, I saw the metal and plastic mounts. So far though where I'll searched so far the plastic is out of stock. Come to think of it, I seem to remember a servo mount in my hanger.
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