CaptainTom's Helicopters

[CaptainTom]

Wow, a real retro-computer that little MAC. My oldest computer was a Commodore 64, CPU 6502 and SID chip for sound. Great games, great stuff. I've also owned the Amiga on which I had a rather creative time once upon a time long ago.

Here's one awesome chopper game by SEGA from 1985 - Choplifter http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SA6RVxk0Keg

[spykez]

Hehehe, glad you like old stuff.

I only found this recently...

MITS ALTAIR

[CaptainTom]

Hahaa.. well that's one way of programming on bit level.

can you run windows on it .. ?

[jharkin]

Lots of thoughts... this could ramble...

Learning to fly
If you a brand new beginner learn and get comfortable on the 230 FIRST, before you even think of spooling up the 700.

Keep practicing on your sim.

And read though the guides in the flight school room, especially this thread https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=531380


Building and Setup
If you are brand new you will have far more questions than we can ever answer in one thread. There are a lot of good guides out there you can read to get started.

I suggest eading this entire site top to bottom
https://www.rchelicopterfun.com/

And while many of them are outdated, the build and setup videos in Finless Bob's forum are a great resource to see things explained "live"
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=41692


Your questions...

First off, loctite has a shelf life so if that E700 is an old stock kit you might want to toss what came in the kit and get some new..

There are many flavors, and TT appears to be using a different color convention than Henkels.

Typically blue (242 or 243 Henkels Loctite) is used on most all screws going into metal. Its medium strength and easily removable. the new 243 formula is nice as its faster acting, oil tolerant and works on stainless without a primer.

"Red" (i.e,. Henkels 271) is high strength. Only use this if hte kit instructions specifically call for it - as its very hard to remove and requires heat. Common places its called for are the tail pitch slieder assemblies on Aligns, and some kits want you to use it on swashplate balls.

The 648 is green bearing retainer. The genuine Henkels Loctite 648 sets really fast and is VERY hard to remove. You need high heat over 250C (i.e. a torch) to remove it - Ive never had luck with a heat gun.
This is typically used on TT bearings, and sometimes to hold hte outer race of bearings into bearing blocks.. Bug again only use this if the instructions specifically ask for it as you often destroy the old bearing removing it. For bearings that are press fit it shouldnt really be needed at all. If you put it on a shaft... good luck ever getting hte machine apart...

Self tapping screws going into plastic often dont need any treatment, but you can use CA for extra security.

The ball in the swashplate typically doesn't need any lubrication as it rides in a block of teflon.

The grease included in the kit is likely provided for greasing the thrust bearings in the main and tail blade grips. These are the open faced bearings that look like this:



When you take the grips apart to grease them pay very careful attention to the order of installation in the manual, the inner and outer races of these are of different diameters and proper sequence is key to getting everything to move smoothly without binding. Sometimes shim washers are used as well, pay attention to where they go for the same reason.

The grease also may be used on the one way bearing in the mainshaft.

Gears dont require any grease unless they are metal on metal. Most of our plastic gears are made of Delrin or nylon and considered "self lubricating"

Generally I would not grease shafts where they pass though bearings - i.e. the mainshaft. If you do lubricate this heavily, over time the shaft may spin inside the inner race and wear down a flat spot. The grease also attracts dirt.


Your guess is correct - the shiny hologram sticker is to check blade tracking. The idea is that you put it on the LE of one blade, and then observe the helicopter in hover... If you see what looks like two rotor disks one above the other (, you can tell which blade is high by looking for the shiny one.Note that hovering right in front of you at eye level to check tracking visually is NOT something you want to do until you are an accomplished pilot. With a good accurate pitch gauge you can usually get it perfect on the bench these days.)

[drparker151]

Snip.. The 648 is green bearing retainer. The genuine Henkels Loctite 648 sets really fast and is VERY hard to remove. You need high heat over 200C (i.e. a torch) to remove it - Ive never had luck with a heat gun. ..Snip

In the last week I've had to remove two pinions and two bearings. about 15 minutes of heat with 3mm tip on my soldering iron, they pop right off.

[jharkin]

Originally Posted by drparker151

In the last week I've had to remove two pinions and two bearings. about 15 minutes of heat with 3mm tip on my soldering iron, they pop right off.

Interesting... has not been my experience... I had a miniature aircraft stainless torque tube assembly go though a crash, and I had to use the pocket torch on the shaft until the loctite was smoking before they let go.


Might have to do with the aluminum to stainless bond, or the bigger surface area?

[drparker151]

Maybe the heat transfer of the big aluminum heat sink tube, took a while to keep the steel hot enough

[K2Freak]

the shiny hologram sticker is to check blade tracking. The idea is that you put it on the LE of one blade

I believe that is also (or perhaps primarily) for blade balancing. A small piece of this tape goes a long way toward changing the mass and COG of a blade.

[CaptainTom]

Thanks guys. That is some good info right there. Yes, I'm reading the RChelifun page, great stuff and fun to read.

I'm working my way through this one step at the time along with reading alot. Something I am not in is hurry.

[jharkin]

Originally Posted by K2Freak

I believe that is also (or perhaps primarily) for blade balancing. A small piece of this tape goes a long way toward changing the mass and COG of a blade.

Yeah you could do that, but I dont think that's why they put it in the kit... Align kits use to come wit that tape and they explicitly mentioned tracking in the manual.

For balancing I like to use Monokote black trim sheets. Cut out a piece of this and put it on the bottom of most blades and its invisible

[omarb]

Your heli is looking awesome so far for a first time build, my first builds were really badly done. Also maybe it would be a good thing to get heli flying with all the electronics setup as is, pod and boom before fitting the fuselage. That way if have a an oops you won't be banging up ur pretty fuse.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[CaptainTom]

Thanks Omarb. Yes, I intend to do some testing with the chopper 'fuse-less' at first to tune it well. However I understand it will be easier flying with the fuse as it has certain aerodynamical properties thanks to its rear wings, which the pod & boom does not have.

As for the blades, I'm considering just masking off one or two small stripe areas on the blades, spraying them white and red. Like real choppers.

[CaptainTom]

I just got my order of servos, and realized I ordered the wrong type. I wanted to order 1x SH-1290 and 3x SH-1258TG for my Raptor 700E, however I somehow managed to click on SH-1250MG. So now I have three SH-1250MG servos surplus.

Can anybody advise me on where I could use these SH-1250MG servos? Perhaps in a smaller chopper? Then what size, 450 maybe? If I cannot use them I want to sell them. I've not found any "for sale" here on Helifreak. Please advise me on this.

[CaptainTom]

Also, I'm getting better and better at flying (in my Phoenix simulator) these days. I've been practicing about an hour or more every day, minimal one hour after work as I work 12 hour shifts. But now I can safely fly and land without crashing, every time.

Mostly I fly the MD300 and MD500, also the Jetranger that I've downloaded separately. Airwolf / Bell 222 is pure pleasure! The MD300 I had to modify its gyro from HH to YR, which now makes it more intuitive to handle in forward flight as I don't need to compensate rudder as much when turning. Anyway the fun of MD300 is in fact its lack of rear wings.

The choppers with little rear wings, or solid fin, fly almost like a plane. I do like that I have a pretty large fleet of planes too when the mood strikes me, Phoenix offers many different aircrafts to choose from, but planes are almost too easy. It is the challenge of the helicopter I desire.

Temperatures are rising in Sweden, spring it returning with bird song and warm winds, melting and drying the snow away. Hopefully soon I will be able to release my Raptor for its maiden flight over the meadows of Alby. I have no idea how prepared I am as a pilot, I have mixed feelings of passion and fear. Fear of crashing and destroying my beatiful chopper. There are still some details I need, such as gyro, receiver, ESC and batteries.

Here is one area I plan to test fly my Raptor once it is ready. It is a large area of agricultural fields and rarely any people.

[svensson_bo_l]

Originally Posted by CaptainTom

I just got my order of servos, and realized I ordered the wrong type. I wanted to order 1x SH-1290 and 3x SH-1258TG for my Raptor 700E, however I somehow managed to click on SH-1250MG. So now I have three SH-1250MG servos surplus.

Can anybody advise me on where I could use these SH-1250MG servos? Perhaps in a smaller chopper? Then what size, 450 maybe? If I cannot use them I want to sell them. I've not found any "for sale" here on Helifreak. Please advise me on this.

Some notes on the swash servos you wrote about:

SH-1258TG was introduced 2010. You may want to look at other sevos as alternative swash servos for your 700, as well as these.

SH-1250MG is 4.6kg, 0.11 sec/60 deg @ 6 volt. Dimensions L x W x H (mm): 35.0 x 15.0 x 29.2.
Some helis they (probably, please check) will fit in are:
– Logo 400 (473 mm blades).
– Protos 500 (430mm to 470mm).
– Align Trex 500 (430 mm blades).

Even if they will fit in some somewhat larger helis with 500-550 blades, I would prefer stronger servos with blade size over some 480 mm.
What is needed, in strength and speed, depends on RPM and flying style too.

/Bo

[CaptainTom]

Thank you Bosse. That is good news, I was planning on getting one 450 size chopper in the future, to contrast my 700 Raptor. Then I could use the 1250 servos with the 450 size. My aim is flying only realistic "scale flying" with fuselages of existing helicopters, never 3D or any acrobatics. 3D makes me sea sick.

Ideally I would use a Bell 222 fuselage for my 700, and a smaller fuselage MD500 with 450. It would hopefully give a proportional scale impression, would it not?

[svensson_bo_l]

Originally Posted by CaptainTom

Thank you Bosse. That is good news, I was planning on getting one 450 size chopper in the future, to contrast my 700 Raptor. Then I could use the 1250 servos with the 450 size. My aim is flying only realistic "scale flying" with fuselages of existing helicopters, never 3D or any acrobatics. 3D makes me sea sick.

Ideally I would use a Bell 222 fuselage for my 700, and a smaller fuselage MD500 with 450. It would hopefully give a proportional scale impression, would it not?

No, SH-1250MG is too big for the 450 size helis that I am familiar with.
It will probably fit on a Align Trex 500 though.

450's in general use micro servos, like Align DS410M or other servos of that size. I am using EMAX ES09MD as a "budget" swash servo on 450. It works well for me, but the plastic housing can brake in crash.

/Bo

[CaptainTom]

Alright. Thanks alot. Good info.

[3D Dave]

CaptainTom,

I've been reading your thread and know this was touched on earlier, but I'm going to mention it as well.

I'm sure the scale build will turn out great, however IMHO, I would highly suggest a few things.

1) Fly something, ANYTHING, other than a fully completed 600 size scale helicopter for your first 20-50 REAL flights to make sure you have a good feel for real life flying and how your specific heli reacts. Simulators are a great help, but there is no substitute for actual air time.

2) If you pick up the necessary skills in that amount of flights, by all means, try your 600 (without the scale body mounted). If you're going to crash (and you will at some point), I'm sure you'll be glad the scale body sustained no damage.

3) After at least 100 flights with the bare 600 (without a crash), then try your scale body.

I know you've flown the micro blade, but they are not expensive nor lethal.

If you have unlimited funds (and time), then by all means start with the scale completed, but make sure you check all your batteries, test ALL control surfaces, test throttle hold, and take off a minimum of 50 feet away from yourself and 100 feet from others. These should be second nature whether you are flying a 450 or a 600 anyway.

I would also recommend having someone with you for these flights (with a cell phone) and know what you're going to do with the heli if things go south.

I don't want to sound negative, but I've been around and seen bad things happen real fast.

Welcome to Helifreak and Good Luck with your heli flights!

[CaptainTom]

Thank you for pointing that out, Dave. All valid safety measures, and I will make sure to follow them. I was going to use a helmet and a pair of protective goggles. You can never be too sure.

Yes, .. I'm thinking of getting another chopper, something smaller and cheaper. I've ordered the Blade 230S but it seems to have gone off for a drink somewhere between the US and Sweden. I could get a 450 or 500 size trex or similar. Maybe a HK 'copy' to practice for real. Meanwhile I can figure out what paint scheme to use for my MD500 fuselage.