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rcinxs · 05-22-2018, 08:16 AM

What's a good method for checking the motor to main gear mesh, mine sounds a little funny, not sure if its tight or loose.

Wargamer · 05-22-2018, 08:29 AM

Everyone seems to have a method. I push them together and then back the motor off just a hair - like barely at all. So far that's worked fine.

rcinxs · 05-22-2018, 08:34 AM

Also having a problem with main shaft wobble, I changed the main shaft, changed the blade holder shaft, still wobble's, would worn bearings cause this also.

trillian · 05-22-2018, 09:25 AM

What I always do is adjust to where there's just a tiny bit of play and then I rotate the main gear 90 degrees and 180 degrees and check to make sure there is still just that little bit of play all the way around.

Basically you want as much tooth engagement as possible but you don't want the two gears bottoming out and creating excess friction or pressure on the motor shaft etc. so just as long as you have a tiny bit of backlash (and keep in mind that the gears can expand as they warm up).

nightflyr · 05-22-2018, 09:40 AM

I've always used the strip of paper method,
simple to do…

Cut a strip of copy paper about 1/2 inches wide and 3 inches long
With the spur gear in place and the motor mounted loosely, slide the slip of paper in between the two gears
Apply some force to the motor to get the pinion to mesh with the spur causing the paper to become creased
Tighten the motor’s mounting screws
Remove the slip of paper

When you remove the paper slip it should have crease marks from the gears and not be torn by them.
The pinion and spur gears should be properly meshed every time they are replaced. In addition, gear meshing should be done as part of a regular maintenance schedule since the mesh may become loose over time.
We should have a short video showing the gear meshing process posted before too long so check it out if you would like to see the process being done.

TheBum · 05-22-2018, 11:51 AM

I just go by feel. I get the mesh tight enough so that I can feel the backlash but not really see it at the high point on the gear.

As for a wobbly main shaft, worn bearings could cause it if several of the balls got flattened.

05-22-2018, 08:16 AM	#1 (permalink)
rcinxs Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2017	Gear Mesh What's a good method for checking the motor to main gear mesh, mine sounds a little funny, not sure if its tight or loose.

05-22-2018, 08:29 AM	#2 (permalink)
Wargamer Registered Users Join Date: Jan 2016	Everyone seems to have a method. I push them together and then back the motor off just a hair - like barely at all. So far that's worked fine. Swinerton likes this. __________________ Compass Atom 5.5; Oxy 2/3/4 XK K110 K120

05-22-2018, 09:25 AM	#4 (permalink)
trillian Registered Users Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: UK, Kent coast	What I always do is adjust to where there's just a tiny bit of play and then I rotate the main gear 90 degrees and 180 degrees and check to make sure there is still just that little bit of play all the way around. Basically you want as much tooth engagement as possible but you don't want the two gears bottoming out and creating excess friction or pressure on the motor shaft etc. so just as long as you have a tiny bit of backlash (and keep in mind that the gears can expand as they warm up). __________________ HD Cell 750, RJX Vector, TDR, TDSF, Kasama Dune and Faifa, Minicopter Triabolo 700, Beam Avantgarde, JR E8 leggero, Suzi Laos, Shape 9, Shape S8, Rave 450, TRex 500, Raptor E700, Compass Warp, Steam 700, Spirit, Spartan, Jeti.

05-22-2018, 09:40 AM	#5 (permalink)
nightflyr Registered Users My HF Map location Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Long Island, NY	I've always used the strip of paper method, simple to do… Cut a strip of copy paper about 1/2 inches wide and 3 inches long With the spur gear in place and the motor mounted loosely, slide the slip of paper in between the two gears Apply some force to the motor to get the pinion to mesh with the spur causing the paper to become creased Tighten the motor’s mounting screws Remove the slip of paper When you remove the paper slip it should have crease marks from the gears and not be torn by them. The pinion and spur gears should be properly meshed every time they are replaced. In addition, gear meshing should be done as part of a regular maintenance schedule since the mesh may become loose over time. We should have a short video showing the gear meshing process posted before too long so check it out if you would like to see the process being done. 07sb likes this. __________________ MSR x1 / mCPX x2 / 450 x4 / Chaos600 test bed / Chaos600 Air-Wolf / American WereWolf 800 / KFrame800/900/1000 / Assorted Fixed Wing JR9303 / JR9503 / Futaba10CHP

05-22-2018, 11:51 AM	#6 (permalink)
TheBum HF Support My HF Map location Join Date: Jul 2007	I just go by feel. I get the mesh tight enough so that I can feel the backlash but not really see it at the high point on the gear. As for a wobbly main shaft, worn bearings could cause it if several of the balls got flattened. trillian and Swinerton like this. __________________ Alan (just call me "Bum"; no need to be so formal) HeliFreak Support Protos Max Evo 700 (Brain 2), Protos Max V2 770 (iKON 2), Synergy 516 (Brain 2), Oxy 2 (Falcon 12) Graupner MZ-32 Experience is something you gain only after you need it. I wouldn't mind social media so much if it didn't involve people.

05-22-2018, 08:34 AM	#3 (permalink)
rcinxs Registered Users Thread Starter Join Date: Jan 2017	Also having a problem with main shaft wobble, I changed the main shaft, changed the blade holder shaft, still wobble's, would worn bearings cause this also.

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